Correspondence between Frances, countess of Hartford, (afterwards duchess of Somerset,) and Henrietta Louisa, countess of Pomfret, between the years 1738 and 1741

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COMKESFONBENCE

BETWEEN

FRANCES,

COUNTESS OF HARTFORD,

(AFTERWARDS DUCHESS OF SOMERSET,)
AND

HENRIETTA LOUISA,

COUNTESS OF POMFRET,

BETWEEN THE YEARS
1738 AND 1741.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. in.

PRINTED BY I. GOLD, SHOE I.ANC,

FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, NO. 6, BRIDGE-STREET,
ELACKFRIARS.

1805.

o 0 -i -J :j

p 1^

S 6 3
CORRESPONDENCE

LADY HARTFORD 5C LADY POMFRET.

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

London, Feb. 19, O. S., 1141^

I TOLD you in my last, dear madam, of
the attack intended against sir Robert
Walpole in the parliament. This was
made on Friday the 1 3th : but it Avas impos-
sible to foresee that it would have proved
more to his honour than any occurrence
which has happened in the course of his
ministry. ]\Iy lord Carteret began, in
the house of lords, with an examination
of treaties, from that at Ryswick till the

VOL. HI. B

late convention; and closed by moving
" That the house should present an
address, humbly to advise and beseech
his majesty that he would be graciously
pleased to remove the right honourable
sir Robert Walpole from his presence and
councils for ever." This was debated till
one in the morning ; and the motion was
rejected by one hundred and eight against
fifty. The duke of Marlborough then
moved, " That an attempt to inHict j)u-
nishment on any person without allowing
him an opportunity to make his defence,
or without proof of any crime or misde-
meanour committed by him, is against
natural justice, the fundamental laws of
the realm, and the ancient usage of par-
liament; and is a high infringement of
the liberties of the subject." "Sly lord
Talbot answered this with a degree of
ra^e v> hich, it is said, was unprecedented
in that house ; and concluded his speech
bv declarir.!X that he should look on

every man as his enemy who agreed to
that motion. However, eighty-one of
them ventured his resentment ; and fifty-
four voted as he did.

In the house of commons, Mr. Sandys
made the same motion that my lord Car-
teret had made in the house of peers;
and desired that the chancellor of the
exchequer * might be ordered to withdraw.
The debate lasted till past three o'clock
on Saturday morning ; but was carried in
favour of sir Robert, by two hundred and
ninety against one hundred and six. Se-
veral of the opposition party spoke for him
very strongly, at the same time that they did
not approve his measures. Amongst these
were my lord Cornbury, Mr. Southwell,
the two Mr. Harlcys, and several others.
Mr. Pulteney said very little ; and even
that, only just before sir Robert, who had

* Sir Robert Walpole.
B 2

desired to speak last. On the court side,
Mr. Pelham, sir William Young, and
Harry Fox, all spoke extremely Avell.
Some of them said that they should not
be satisfied with only rejecting the motion
for the address ; but, when that point was
settled, would move for a vote of approba-
tion of sir Robert's ministry.

When he came to speak himself, both
parties agree that he did it Avitli a dignity
and eloquence wdiich appeared like inspi-
ration. He ended his speech by saying,
that he had no favour to ask of those
gentlemen who thought he deserved so
severe a sentence as had been proposed :
but of his friends he entreated, — nay, must
insist, — that they would not think of any
such motion as they had hinted at ; be-
cause it would look like an act of indem-
nity for what w^as past : >\hich he ^\ as far
from desiring; since he Avas conscious
that his conduct had been hitherto, and

he hoped always would be, such as might
stand a scrutiny, and lay claim to the
justice of an English parliament.

They then proceeded to a division, and
the numbers proved as I told you; many
of the patriots and country-party having
left the house.

Since I began this, I have received a
letter from your ladyship ; which gives
me great concern, by telhng me you still
ikeep your chamber. You would not be
confined there for a trifling complaint. .

A thousand thanks, dear madam, fdr
lady Mary's epistle*. It is a very just pic-
ture of my lord Bathurst's impatience and
pursuits. — I begin to fear that the air of
Richkings is whimsically infectious ; for
its former owner f had scarcely more pro-

* A poetical epistle to lord Bathurst by lady
Mary Wortley, jent with a former letter ; but then
omitted in the transcript for the press, from its
being well known to the public.

t Lord Bathurst.

b3

jects than my lord and myself find con-
tinually springing up in our minds about
improvements there. Yesterday I was
busy in buying paper, to furnish a little
closet in that house, -where I spend the
greatest part of my time when I am
within doors; and, what will seem more
strange, bespeaking a paper ceiling for a
room which my lord has built in one of
the woods. The perfection which the
manufacture of that commodity is arrived
at, in the last few years, is surprising :
the master of the warehouse told me
that he is to make some paper at the price
of twelve and thirteen shillings a yard,
for two different gentlemen. I saw some
at four shillings, but contented myself with
that of only eleven-pence : which I
think is enough to have it very pretty ;
and I have no idea of paper furniture
being rich.

I enclose you some verses by Mrs. Car-
ter, who gave them to me. She was here

the other morning, and surprised me with
her looks and conversation. The former
resemhle those of Hebe : the latter has
a tendency to a little pedanti'y; however,
she has certainly real and extensive
learning.

My lord Cathcart's death just at this
juncture, gives every body great concern ;
as he was thought an extremely good of-
ficer, and a sensible man.

F. Hartford.

A DIALOGUE BETWEEN BODY AND MIND.

Says Body to Mind, " 'Tis amazing to see
" We're so nearly related, yet never agree ;
" But lead a most wrangling strange sort of life,
** As great plagues to each other as husband and

" wife.
" The fault's all your own; who, with flagrant

" oppression,

b4

8

** Encroach cv'ry day on my lawful possci-sion.
** The best room in my house* you have sciz'd for

" your own,
*' And turn'd the whole tenement quite upside

" down :
'• While vou hourly call in a disorderly crew f
" Of vagabond rogues; who have nothing to do
*' But run in and out hurry-scurry, and keep
"' Such a horrible uproar I can't get to sleep.
" There's my kitchen J sometimes is as empty as

" sound :
" I call for my servants §, — not one to be found !
" They all are sent out on your ladyship's errand —
" To fetch some more riotous si;est in, I warrant.
*' In short, things are going, I see, worse and

" worse ;
" I 'm dctermin'd to force you to alter your

" course ! ""

Poor Mind, who heard all with extreme modera-
tion,

Thought '(was now time to speak, and make her
accusation.

* The head. f The thoughts.

J The stomach. § The s^pirits.

MIND.

" 'Tis I who, I think, have most cause to com-

" plain ;
" For I'm cramp'd and confin'd, like a slave in a

*' chain.
" I did but step out, on some weighty affairs,
" To visit (last night) my good friends in the

" stars, —
" When, before I was got half as high as the

" moon,
" You sent Spleen and Vapours to hurry me

" down.
** Vi et armis they seiz'd me, in midst of my

" flight,
" And shut me in caverns as dark as the night."

" Twas no more," replied Body, " than what

" you deserv'd ! —
*' Whilst you rambled abroad, I at home was half-

" starv'd :
" And, unless I had closely confin'd you in

" hold,
" You'd have left me to perish with hunger and

•* cold."

b5

10

MIND.

^' I've a friend in reserve* ; who, though slow, h

" yet sure,
" And will rid me at last of your insolent pow'r :
" Shall knock down your mud-walls, and whole

" fabric demolish,
" And at once your strong-holds and my slav'ry

" abolish :
** And whilst in the dust your dull ruins decay,
'* I shall snap off my chains, and fly freely away ! "

* Death.

11

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET ♦.

London, Feb. 26, O.S., 1741.

Thanks, dearest madam, for those charming lines
Where Sappho's wit in sprightl}? lustre shines,—
When she, in early youth, to Bathurst wrote
The dictates of her own enliven'd thought :
Where, with such skill, with such unequal'd art.
She paints the charms and foibles of his heart ;
Whilst he, in vacant hours (if such he knew),
To Coin's clear stream and flow'ry banks withdrew,
There to project a beautiful retreat —
Of Love and Gaiety the destin'd seat —
Where maids of honour might with pleasure rove
Amongst the lab'rinths of the gloomy grove f;
Where statesmen might forget the nation's cares,
And find a refuge from perplex'd affairs J.

* In answer to the letter alluded to in the first npte
in page 5, above.

f This frequently happened when the court was
at Windsor.

I Lord Bolingbroke and sir William Wyndham
were often there.

12

For such he form'd the well-contiiv'd design ;
Nor knew tlmt Kate (perverse) had mark'd it mine.
Amazing turn ! — couUl human eyes foresee
That Bathurst phmted, schem'd, and built, tor me r
That he, whose genius vast designs engag'd ;
Whom business surfeited, and rest enrag'd ;
Should 'range those alleys, bend those blooming

bow'rs,
To shelter me in my declining hours !
What strange delusions sway'd his tow'ring mind, ~i
To think himself for such a spot design'd — >■

Within a pale of scarce two miles confin'd ! J

lie, to whom China's wall would seem a bourid
Too narrow for his thought's extensive round ;
Who, in the senate, Tully's fame would reach ;
In courts, magnificence to Persia teach ;
In deep philosophy, with Plato vie ;
With Newton, follow meteors through the sky ;
With gayDemctrius, charm (and leave!) the fair, —
Yet, with good breeding, shield them from despair.
Again I ask, could human eyes foresee
That such a one should plant and build for me ?
For me ! whom Nature soberly dcsign'd
With nothing striking in my face or mind :
Just fitted for a plain domestic life, —
A tender parent, and contented wife.
Yet so has Fate decreed ; — ^perhaps to shew
The vanity of all our schemes below.

li

These arbours he for other guests had plann'd :
Where wits might muse, or politics be scann'd.
lie stretch'd the lawn : and cut the smooth canal,
Where Cleopatra's gilded bark might sail ;
Or nymphs more modern might admire the scene,
Float on the wave, or dance upon the green !

Yet, to perfection when his work arriv'd,
His fancy tir'd of all his art contriv'd.
Careless he saw these walks and arbours, made
For one who only seeks retirement in their shade.

Like his are all the pleasures we pursue,
No more they charm us when no longer new.
Joy which delighted us in younger years.
To riper age a frantic dream appears.
Then, all we ask of Heav'n is balmy peace ;
And empty hopes, and flatt'ring prospects, cease.

So, in the evening of a sultry day,
When Phoebus hides his glories in the sea,
No more the vales afford a gaudy scene.
No more the groves present a cheerful green :
The rose in vain her glowing hue would boast, —
In dusky shades her radiant bloom is lost :
Resplendent feathers now no longer deck.
With varied charms, the constant wood-dove's neck;
Bright sunny beams, alone, those colours paint.
And, they withdrawn, the borrowed tinctures faint.
Yet in the twilight we with pleasure stray ;
Nor would recal the noon and scorching ray.

14

The sparkling stars heav'n's vaulted roof adorn :
The voice of Music warbles from the thorn ;
Where Philomel her plaintive note prolongs,
And distant echoes answer to her songs.
Refreshing gales a thousand odours yield,
Stol'n from the woodbine's breath, and new-mown
field.

Here let me stop ? — ere you, my friend, are tir'd
Of verse, which pensive leisure first inspir'd :
But, grateful, own, before I close the page^
That not the interposing mists of age
Can from my soul your real merit hide ;
For ever valu'd, though too late descried !

F. Hartford.

15

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Saturday.

About ten this morning the abate Nic-
colini came, and went with us to the abate
Martelli's apartment : which looks on the
Piazza di Minerva ; in the middle of which
is an obelisk, on the back of a white mar-
ble elephant. One of the sides forms the
front of a church ; where^^ every year, on
this day, the pope distributes to three hun-
dred young women fortunes of from
twenty to a hundred crowns each. This
is a donation left many years since by
a Greek cardinal. After divine service
they make a procession from the great
entrance (preceded by a cross and the
canons of the church) round some streets,
and return by another door. Their dress
ib of white woollen ; having over it a very

\6

large piece of woollen cloth, that is wrapt
round the body and head so as to cover
all but the eyes, nose, and forehead, in
imitation of the ancient vestal virgins.
Each carried a lighted candle in her hand:
about fifty of the last wore crowns on
their heads, and these were designed for
nuns. But, as the pope did not come
this \Aay, we were taken by the signora
Cenci (who is sister-in-laAv to my other
protectress, and intends to share the office
with her) to the Afonte Cavallo, where
the popes now reside.

This we found a most delightful situation.
The palace seems very large. Between the
palace and the two colossal statues, each
holding a horse in his hand, which give
name to the hill (formerly called Quirini),
we stopped to see his holiness return home.
At some distance before him, his light-
horse advanced, in crimson short gowns
richly trimmed with gold, holding in their
right hands little flags of red and yellow silk.

17

After these followed the nobility, in the
same (but black) dress, on very fine
Neapolitan horses ; then those of his bed-
chamber, in long habits of purple silk.
The pope was drawn by six white horses ;
the coachman riding on the first horse on
the left hand. The coach was of crimson
velvet on the outside, with gold mouldings.
His litter and chair (both of the same vel-
vet, with gilt nails) came next ; and then
the coaches of the cardinals that attend
him, for there are always Uvo in the coach
with him when he goes out in state. I
believe my description is not very full ; for
I was so intent on seeing the principal
figure, that many others may have escaped
me as he passed by our coach. He
turned about, and gave his benediction
very graciously. He has a good look; and
is, they say, a well-bred good sort of a man.
My lady afterwards took me to the Four
Fountains : from the centre of which place
are seen four streets of a prodigious length,

18

three descending and one rising ; and
this is one of the finest views in Rome.
We drove next to the Monte della Tri-
nita ; from whence we looked down upon
the city, and saw the country which encom-
passes that side of it. When the signora
had shewn me these beautiful views, she
set me down at home : where, after din-
ner, I wrote my letters of thanks for those
which I had received of recommendation ;
and then, with my daughters, went to the
Villa Lodovisia, which was built by Gre-
gory the Fifteenth, and has a very agree-
able garden of about a mile and a half in
circumference. This is a wood ; in which
are several pieces of antiquity scattered
up and down, with fountains and buildings.
It is within the city, as well as many more
that I passed by in going to St. John of
Lateran (the cathedral of Rome, new
fronted by the late pope). Adjoining to
this church is the Hospital for Orphans, —
a palace built by Sixtus Quintus with a

19

design to live in it; and near it is another
building of his, where the Santa Scala
are. From the hill on which this church
stands are to be seen several remains
of old Rome; as, arcades, &c. In re-
turning to our part of the town, we passed
by the ruins of the Amphitheatre ; but, as
I shall hereafter take a more exact view
of these antiquities, I will say no more of
them to-night.

Sunday.
I have very little to say to-day : for, be-
ing invited by Mr. Naylor* to dinner, I
did not go out in the morning; and he
dined so late, and the company was so
agreeable (being the same that was at lord
Lincoln's), that we had hardly time to
leave our names at the doors of some of
the Roman ladies who had been to see
me, before it was dark ; — when I returned

* Son of the then bishop of Chichester,

20

•

home, where all our countrymen and some
other gentlemen came and drank tea with
us. They are this minute gone ; and 1
find myself extremely out of order with
jny old inflammation in my lungs. I can-
not imagine where I got it, except in
walking yesterday in the Lodovisia garden.

Monuay.
Though I hardly slept all night, and
could Avith difficulty speak to be heard
this morning, — that I might lose none of
the short time I have to stay here, I went
to see the collection of pictures in the
Terreno of the Borghese palace. These
are really extremely fine, and numerous.
The apartment runs through the whole
building, ending at last in a view upon
the Tiber. In almost every room are
fountains of running water — some of por-
phyry, some of yellow alabaster, and one
of silver — in different and pretty designs.
The rooms are adorned with painting and

21

gilding. One is a sort of gallery, vastly
rich in carvings and busts. The floor is
of various sorts of marbles, inlaid.

In all the Roman princes' houses are
canopies, under which they receive their
vassals (for nobody else will come on those
terms) ; and among these are some nobi-
lity, the prince of Colonna (for example)
having six-and-thirty cities and towns that
do him homage. The pope's picture is un-
der all these canopies ; and, if the owners
have any thing in the Neapolitan state, the
king of Naples's picture is there too.

The great square court of this palace is
supported by a hundred granite pillars,
of entire pieces; that form two fine colon-
nades, one over another, in all the four sides.
From the middle of the apartment I saw a
smaller court, full of fountains, statues,
&c. I heard there are still more: which
made me compare in my mind the three
capitals I have already seen in Italy; of
wliich one may justly enough say, that the

oa

Florentines live in great and noble houses,
the Genoese in vast and beautiful palaces,
and the Romans in little cities full of
riches and fine taste. The prodigious
number of beautiful fountains; the well-
paved large streets ; open places orna-
mented with the noble remains of old
Rome ; the ruins of its former grandeur ;
tlie flourishing elegance of its present
state, in the houses and gardens of the
modern popes ; and a thousand pleasing
objects, too many to enumerate; make this
city infinitely superior to any thing I ever
saw — or, till I saw it, could imagine:
and if at Florence I wished you there for
my satisfaction, I now wish you here for
your own.

Tuesday.

As i\Ir. Harvey told me last night that he
had just received a letter from England,
of his being made a captain of foot, with
express orders to return by the latter end

23

of Maj', I gave up JVIr. Parker to him for
the few days he stays. Mr. Parker is a
gentleman who goes about with the En-
glish to shew them what is most remark-
able ; assisting them also in buying what
pictures, prints, and other curiosities, they
fancy most : he also hires lodgings, ser-
vants, &c. : for which he has a present of
some zechins (the gold coin here) when
they go away. I resigned him with the
more satisfaction, because my cold is still
very troublesome ; not, however, so much
so, but that I drove about the town after
dinner, till the night brought me home to
receive company. I had one more than
usual ; Avhich was sir Edward Smith, a
young Roman-catholic gentleman, whose
aunt I am acquainted with. He leaves
the place next Monday,

Wednesday.

Not going out this morning ; and only
to shops and driving about the town in

24

the afternoon, till the hour of our usual
visitors, whose conversation (though very
agreeable) produced no materials for a
letter ; I can only shew, by writing to-day,
that, whether I am employed or not em-
ployed, you have always a share in my
thoughts.

Thursday.

We Avere all dressed by nine this morn-
ing, in order to be conducted to the Vati-
can by the signora Cenci. It is strange
that there should be such a difference in llie
same place, when inhabited and when not
inhabited. What appeared ruinous ^vhen
we saw it empty, seemed now the most
glorious scene that art could form. The
Clementine hall was the first we entered :
having the count Pctroni (one of the cap-
tains of the guards to the pope), and two of
of his hoiiness's Swiss, to make way for us ;
and indeed this was very necessary, — even
that great apartment being as full of all

25

degrees, sexes, and nations, as we may re-
member London on the lord-mayors
feast, when we had the honour to sup with
our royal mistress. These Swiss are so
particular in their figure, that I will de-
scribe tliem to you as well as I can, for
they still retain the same habit that they
wore three hundred years ago — viz. stripes
of blue and yellow cloth sewed together,
and slashed with red ; leathern belts cross
their shoulders; and hats with white fea-
thers ; — but the best description you will
find of tliem is in the four knaves of a
pack of cards. On such solemn occasions
as these, they quit the belt and hat for a
coat of mail and a helmet, with a halberd
in their right hand ; and in this figure they
conducted us to see the cardinal's table
prepared, which was really a pretty sight.
There were placed, for the whole length
of the table, trees adorned with fruits,
figures of saints finely dressed, and, in the
middle, a religious history, all made ii)

TOL. III. G

26

ivliite stucco, "Nvith painting and some
gilding. On each side of this long table
were the covers of the cardinals : each of
them had a square piece of silver gilt, on
which lay his bread, salt, vinegar, knife,
fork, &c. ; and over all these a napkin
pinched and raised a foot high. About this
were six or seven little round glass plates
and covers; through which appeared all
kinds of sweetmeats and pickles. In an
adjoining room was a very large gilt side-
board of old wrought plate. From hence
we Avent to see the preparations for the
thirteen pilgrims whom the pope enter-
tains and serves this day. This table was
much the same as the other, only without
the square gilt salvers. Our next amuse-
ment was in the major-domo's apartment,
from a window of which we saw the pope,
seated and attended by his court, in the
balcony over the great gate of St. Peter's
church. Here was read aloud, in Latin
and Italian, the bull of excommunications ;

27

and then the pope threw down a lighted
torch, saying, " so let all heresy be ex-
tincti" whilst the cannons from the citadel
joined their thunder to his. Immediately
after came flying down the indulgence ; and
then his holiness gave his blessing to the
kneeling crowd, who filled the whole vast
piazza before the church. We then re-
moved, by the help of the Swiss and the
gentlemen with us, to a little private win-
dow that looked down on the room where
the pope washed the feet of thirteen poor
priests, in imitation of what our Saviour
did to his apostles. At the upper end of
the room is a throne erected for the pope,
who is brought here in an open chair, in
all his robes. Of these he divests himself
in the sight of the people ; and having
taken off his triple crown, descends in a
white linen vestment, attended by the pre-
lates, who carry what is necessary for the
office he is about to perform. On one
side of this room are seated the thirteen
c a

2S

apostles, drest in close woollen habits, with
square caps of the same : their feet rest on
another raised bench, between which and
the rail covered with scarlet cloth that
keeps off the crowd, there is room for the
pope and his attendants to pass. One of
the latter carries a silver gilt vessel of wa-
ter, in which the pope puts the apostles'
feet, one by one ; then takes a towel from
another of his prelates, wipes them, kisses
them ; and, having received a palm from a
third, gives it into the hand of the poor
priest, in sign of peace, and passes on to
the next. When this is finished they are
conducted to the table, where the pope
serves them all round in the same manner,
and then retires; leaving them to finish
their dinner, which, from behind a cur-
tain, we saw them doing. There seemed
great plenty and variety. All that remains
is put into baskets and given to them, as
well as a gold medal to each. They all
sit on benches on one side of the table,

29

and the pope and prelates serve them on
the other. We had now only to see the
cardinals at dinner, which by particular
favour we did. They were dressed in
purple, by way of mourning, and were
seated on red velvet arm-chairs, over
against each other. The dinner was as
fine as meagre-day would admit of.
We left them to return to ours; being
heartily tired with walking, and running,
and standing (as each in its turn was ne-
cessary), with very little sitting, for five
hours together. At between five and six
in the afternoon the countess Bolognetti
called on us to go to the Vatican, in order
to hear theMiserere ; which we did, (against
all rule) -seated in the very chapel of tiie
pope; but did not dare to advance far
enough to see the manner in which the
cardinals and prelates were placed, which
I am informed is very fine. The music
is exceedingly solemn and expressive, and,
though performed by voices only, sounds
c 3

30

so like being accompanied by an organ,
that, without being told, it is impossible to
know the difference. When this was
finished we went to a lesser chapel, where
the sacrament was exposed in an illumi-
nation so great that it rivaled day ; being
beautifully disposed over the whole place,
where the richest perfumes were burning.

Friday.

Having; staid at home all this mornincj
impatient for the post, at last it Jias ar-
rived, and, to my intinito satisfaction,
brought me two of your letters. How
agreeable can you make even the disor-
ders of factious envy ! — but how much
above all praise is your verse ! — such senti-
ments ! such language ! such goodness for
me ! I have read it three times over, and
can now only leave it to thank you for it ;
but, to do that, no words are sufficient, un-
less, like you, I could make a Clio attend
me whenever I pleased ; and were that in

31

my power, I do assure you I should think
I repaid her gifts, when I employed them
on so noble a subject as doing justice to
your merit, which you treat too lightly.
The signora Cenci is come to the door to
carry me to some of the sights of this
week, the description of which I must
leave to be told to-morrow, having now
only time to sign myself,

Most affectionately yours,

H. L. Pom FRET.

Rome, March 31, N. S., 1741.

C4

•iO THE COUiNTKSS OF HARTFORD.

Salurrlaj'.

I WAS SO full of your delightful letter,
that I quite forgot to thank your ladyship
in my last for Mrs. Carter's Dialogue,
which is very pretty and new. I am sorry
she takes a pedantic turn, for her way of
thinking deserves to wear polite language ;
which, since you admit her to your dres-
sing-room (where I hope to see her some
time or other), I do not doubt but she
will have judgement enough to learn. Now
to my journal.

After I had sealed my letter to your
ladyship, I was conducted by the signora
Cenci through the streets for near three
miles. All the way we went, wherever
there happened to be pizzicaroU shops

33

(that is, where hams, tongues, and other
salted meats, are sold) they were set out
with greens, flowers, and paintings of
landscapes in perspective, one room be-
hind another, and little glass lamps burn-
ing in every part. They made the prettiest
scene imaginable, and recalled Vauxhall
to my memory ; m hich seemed to have been
cut in pieces and sent here. This cere-
mony is to welcome-in Easter, when the
trade begins to be again flourishing. I
was told that the confectioners do the same
by their shops at Christmas. The place
we Avent to see was la Trinita del Pe-
legrini — a community first settled in the
time of pope Julius the Third. They have
a cardinal protector, a prelate, a guar-
dian, and a numerous brotherliood of all
degrees, out of whom are deputed the
upper ofiicers. Tliese are most of them
noble, and, as well as the others, wear a
red glazed linen frock over their clothes,
and a white sliort apron tied about their
('. 5

34

waists, when they are peforming any part
of their duty in the house, or M'hen they
attend processions. For the latter, every
one receives sixpence, and a wax-torch of
four pounds weight. All this goes to their
public expense: but they have, besides,
great fixed revenues, and almost daily
donations that are left or given to them.
Here are received, the whole year round,
all pilgrims who can bring a patent from
the bishop of their diocese, or the pope's
nuncio, to certify that devotion is the oc-
casion of their journey and tliat forty
miles is the shortest distance tliey have
come. When we arrived, a person in the
dress I before described, attended by
two others that held torches, gave me his
hand to get out of the coach ; and I, not
then knowing that the nobility for mortifi-
cation occasionally exercised these em-
ployments in person, was surprised to find
it the husband of the lady AAho brought
me. She overlooked, for that evening, the

35

apartment of the women, where we were
first conducted. We entered a very large
room, with long tables on each side,
which this night was to entertain t\vo hun-
dred and sixty; for always in Passion-
Week the number is greatest. The man-
ner in Avhich they are served is thi§ : — a
sallad is placed in the middle, round
which are five other dishes well filled,
and prettily garnished ; and next to these,
four wliite jugs, with as many white bowls
to drink out of, that cover them ; then the
sallad and five dishes again, and then
other white jugs ; and so alternately, from
one end of the table to the other. Benches
are placed on each side : and there are
four people to each mess ; each having,
also, a plate of soup and a wooden spoon.
All they leave is their own ; and they are
entertained three nights (but no more)
with supper and lodging. When we en-
tered, the room was full of people well
dressed, that, by way of penance, came to

36

wait on these poor beggars, who all at-
tended in an adjoining room till their
meal was in order. I looked in ; but can-
not describe the dirt, the noise, and odd-
ness of the crew, that had arrived from all
parts of the known Avorld. When they
were placed, the })relate (in the same red
frock) gave the benediction, and they
began to eat heartily. As I went down
the room, one of their attendants, who
waited with great diligence (as they all
did), stole so much time from her office
as to turn about and tell me that she in-
tended, as soon as this week of devotion
was over, to make me a visit. I was so
much amazed, that I did not know what
to answer, when the signora Cenci Avhis-
pered me, that it was the duchess St.
Martino, and added (smiling), " this is
nothing: we all come by turns: and wash
their feet on other nights ; but, as they
have made a procession to-day to St. Pe-
ie\% there is not time." I said, " I hoped

37

their feet were washed by themselves first?'*
" No, indeed" (said she) : " Last night I
am sure they were not, for I performed
that office myself. " The place where they
sleep is a long room, and wide enough to
admit of two beds on each side, one at the
foot of the other; through all these I
walked, to the bottom, where is an altar,
and upon it a crucifix, for their devotions.
Two people lie in each bed, and they have
clean sheets twice a-week. Having seen
this, we went next to the men's apartment
(but I must not forget to tell you, that
men are only permitted to see the men,
and women, the women ; unless by a par-
ticular order), which is much larger and
more handsome ; they having two rooms to
eat in, and two to sleep in. The crowd of
pilgrims and others that came to see them
was so offensive to my nose, that I could
with great difficulty support the walking
through them, to see the place where they
wash their feet. It is a square room, with
raised benches on all sides, and lower

38

benches under for their feet to rest on ;
with Httle tubs, and two cocks of water, one
hot and the other cold, to each person. To
my great comfort, there was a door to get
to our coaches without returning again
to the seven hundred and sixty pilgrims ;
for that number was feasted to-night, be-
sides the ladies I saw above. The order,
the plenty, the cleanness, and I may say
elegance, in which they are served, is pro-
digious, and took my admiration so much
that I fear I have extended my discourse
about it to a tiresome length. However,
I M'ill be more moderate in Avhat regards
to-day ; of Avhich I can only tell you, that
I staid at home all the morning ; drove
about the streets after dinner; and drank
tea this evening with lord Lincoln, Mr.
Harvey, Mr. Pitt, ^Ir. Dashwood, ]\Ir.
Naylor, &c. ; some or all of whom, be-
sides foreigners, come to us every evening
during these latter days of Lent, when
company do not meet in public.

59

Sunday.
The abate Niccolini was with us before
nine this morning, in order to conduct us
to St. Peter's church, where the pope was
to celebrate mass. The high altar was the
most magnificent (without being in the
least taudry) that I ever saw. There were
only seven candles, the middle one a little
advanced forward. The candlesticks, a
large crucifix, and all the vessels, were of
gold, finely imagined and wrought; and
on the sides were laid the triple crowns.
What is different here from most churches,
is, that the great entrance is at the east
end ; so that the pope, in performing the
office, had his faee turned that way. The
altar, which is placed just under the dome,
is of Corinthian brass, taken from the
Pantheon and cast into this form by Urban
the Eighth, whose arms are upon it. Four
vast pillars, twisted, and wreathed about
with foliage and cherubim, gilt (as well

40

as the other extremities of the work), sup-
port a canopy of the same, M'hich covers
the aUar. Behind these (as it is not yet
summer), there was a large space enclosed
with red damask, trimmed with gold,
Avithin which was a throne erected, for his
holiness to sit during some part of the
time ; and on one side, another canopy,
where he put on and off his vestments.
We had benches placed on purpose for us
on one side of the altar; but without the
enclosure, which, being open on the sides,
we could see into. The pope was served
at mass by a cardinal deacon and cardinal
dean, with all his court attending in their
different dresses of form. His own was
white and gold, as were those of all the
priests that I saw saying mass at every
altar in the church. The pictures at all
the altars being uncovered to-day, and
most of them in Mosaic, made a glorious
addition to the former beauties I had ob-
served. The pope, being prepared to

41

officiate (wearing a white skull-cap on his
head) first incensed all parts of the altar,
then his attendants, and then on each side
the people. This being done, he retired
to the throne, and sat while the choir (that
was just by us) sung all the service of the
consecration. Whilst this is going on,
let me observe to you that the college of
cardinals, consisting of seventy-two, have
in themselves six^^ishops, twenty-four dea-
cons, and all the rest priests. When a
a man is made cardinal deacon he comes
in last. If he should be advanced to a
priest in that college, he takes precedence
according to his first creation, and conse-
quently of every cardinal priest made
since his entrance into the college. But
this is not so if he becomes cardinal bi-
shop ; for then he enters last, though the
other bishops should be of younger crea-
tion than he originally was. So that
tliough Altien is the oldest cardinal, yet
Rufo being the first bishop amongst them,

42

he is dean of the college, and was attended
as such to-day — cardinal Corsini (nephew
to the late pope) performing the office of
deacon. There is some difference in the
habits of each degree ; but all wear white
and gold (these being the colours for
Easter). The cardinals embroider on
their vestments the arms of the pope that
made them and their own, joined together,
under the scarlet hat. When the time of
consecration came, the pope returned to
the altar — (in the procession he had re-
tired from it) — with six men in white sur-
plices bearing lighted candles, and all his
attendants before him. Having blessed
the wine and wafer he returned to his
throne : standing before which, he took the
sacrament; it being brought to him by
the dean and deacon. The pope does not
drink the wine, like other priests, but sucks
it through a little pipe. He then admi-
nistered to all the cardinals and prelates
there, on their knees. The choir soon

43

finished singing the rest of the service;
and his hoHness^ assuming his robes and
mitre, passed through the crowd, in an
open chair borne on men's shoulders, to
the balcony that he was in on Thursday.
From thence he gave his blessing to the
people. We went again to the major-do-
mo's apartment, where he sent the triple
crowns and mitres for us to look at. There
are four of the first, and two of the last,
made by different popes. The ground-work
is of pearl ; over which are a vast number of
precious stones, many of them of prodi-
gious size. There was also a pettorale of
gold, which Benvenuto Cellini, in his life
written by himself, mentions the making
of. In the afternoon the contessa Bolo-
gnetti, in an extremely fine coach, came
to carry us to the Corso, and afterwards
to her own house ; where she had invited all
the nobility in Rome to meet us ; and her
great apartment was most magnificently
lighted, as well as nobly furnished with a

44

very rich collection of pictures, crimson
velvet and gold, great glasses, fine tables,
&c. In their chief room, which is called
the room of audience, all the nobility have
the pope's picture hung up. When the
Avhole assembly was collected together
(which in rich clothes and jewels might
vie with those of any birth-day), in which
were all the English as M^ell as other fo-
reigners, a tall, fair, young man came in,
Avhom they called U Principe *i and for
whom a party of cards being made, the
rest of the company disposed themselves
to play or walk about, as they liked best»
As I had a curiosity to see that person, I
staid some time in the room, at a distance
from the table where he was, and then
walked about with the others, not caring
to play.

* The young Chevalier de St. George.

45

Monday.

My morning being employed in my
own room, I did not dress till towards
six ; half an hour after which the contessa
Bolognetti came again in the same coach
to carry us to the Corso : in driving
through Avliich we saw the Pretender and
his youngest son pass by in their coaches.
I have now seen the whole family; which,
had it not been for this accident, I should
have left Rome Mathout doing, — the father
never going out but to church, and the
youngest son having been ill. We went
at niijht to the contessa Petroni, who had
also opened her best apartment for us,
and invited most of the same company,
who played at cards in the several rooms.
These were furnished in a very elegant
taste with crimson and gold, though they
are neither so large nor numerous as
those of last night.

46

Tuesday.
We dined to-day Avidi IMr. Pitt and
]\Ir. Castlcton, being invited by them to
meet the same company as we had done
twice before. Our entertainment was
very handsome ; and when it was over,
we made some visits ; and at nine o'clock
called on the contcssa Bolognetti, who
went with us to the marchese Crcsccnci\s;
where there was an assembly to-night,
lari^er than ordinary, on our account.
The house is old, and the rooms unequal ;
but the chief one is very large, with a rich
ceiling, and painted on the sides. Here
we staid till t\velve, for that is the hour of
tfoinij home in Rome : which makes me
very sleepy in the mornings.

Wc'dnosday.

As I foresaw last night, I was so sleepy
this morninsy that I could not rise in time
to be dressed before dinner, and therefore
was employed in that occupation till live

47

in the afternoon ; when the marchesa
Patrizzii called on us to go and see the
Castle St. Angelo, originally called Moles
Adriani. There only remains the middle
part; the lower building that projected
■ being destroyed, as well as the upper
part. Some of the pillars support St.
Pauls church ; and some of the statues
adorn the great-duke s gallery, and other
collections ; while the brass pine-apple
that crowned it, lies in one of the courts
of the Vatican. Thus is the noble monu-
ment broken and dispersed in its orna-
mental parts ; whilst the vast solid mass,
built to contain the ashes of a single man,
is hollowed out into a fortress, where,
besides the apartments inhabited by Cle-
ment the Seventh during the siege and
sack of Rome, there are numerous others
for prisoners, officers, and soldiers. The
duke of Palombaro, who is castellano,
met us at the entrance, with his soldiers
under arms, and conducted us into a very

43

large and well-proportioned hall, with a
fine ceiling, and painted on the sides.
This was fitted up by pope Paul the
Third. On our entrance a well -chosen
concert of music immediately struck up.
We passed on to an apartment furnished
Avith crimson and gold ; in wlwch was
prepared a table with all sorts of ice and
biscuits. When we had eaten of these,
he conducted us into a lesser apartment,
of his own building, on the top of the
castle ; from which, on all sides, are
beautiful views of the Tiber, the city, and
the distant country, even to the sea. In
going a,way, he made us promise to come
again another time, and bring our coun-
trymen with us, the weather not permit-
tins; us to walk about and see the fortifi-
cations to-day; which, as much as I could
observe, are (like the Horse-Guards in
England) suited to a peaceful prince.

We were then taken by the same lady
to the marchesa Nari's assembly. This

49

was in her private apartment ; and the
company was not numerous : however, we
staid till the card-tables broke up ; and,
therefore, it is too late to say any thing
more than good night.

Thursday.

At ten this morning the signora Cenci
came to carry us to the pope's palace at
]Monte Cavallo ; where the great hall was
hung with crimson and gold for the occa-
sion. At the upper end, a canopy and
chair of state were placed for his holiness.
On one side was erected an altar ; and at
the lower part of the room there was an
enclosed scaffold for the ladies to sit and
see the consecration of the agnus-deis.
These are medals of white wax — some
large, some small — prepared by the reli-
gious of St. Bernard. On one side is the
Holy Lamb ; and on the reverse, some
saint or sacred history, according to the
size. The pope and cardinals have white

VOL. III. D

50

short aprons, as well as the prelates that
wait on them. Each has a vessel of holy
water and oil before him, in which he
puts the agnus-deis ; and, having blessed
them, he takes them out with a silver
ladle, and returns them to the prelates in
the same vessel that they brought them
in from the Bernardines, y\\\o wait at the
bottom of the room to give others, and
take them back. The only difference
between the pope and cardinals in offici-
ating is, that the first is under his canopy,
and has a silver gilt vessel, as also the
wax brought to him in large silver gilt
basins ; whereas the cardinals are placed
at equal distances do^n the room, and
are served with wooden trays covered
with silver. This ceremony being finish-
ed, all the medals were laid together in
another room ; where the pope went, in
a little kind of procession, to give his final
benediction. He then retired : after
which we went down to look at them, and

51

to see the order of the room more plain-
ly. I asked some of my acquaintance
amongst the priests, prelates, and ahates,
what was the virtue of these ; but could
get no answer, except that their conse-
cration was an old custom. Yet, at last,
finding one that knew nothing of me, I
was told, they preserved from danger in
child-birth, plague, fire, and tempests.
On this I immediately made interest to
get some, — that I might, at last, make
your ladyship a valuable present, as a
reward for your being so thankful for
nothing at all. In the evening I went,
as appointed, to the contessa Bolognetti s,
who went with us to the contessa Sode-
rini's assembly : it was a very pretty one ;
but not so large as some I have seen.
Her apartment was above stairs, but
newly furnished ; and it makes a better
shcAv (as I heard) than her state one
under it.

d2

Friday.

In receiving my letters this morning, I
was very much disapjiointed to fmd none
from your ladyship. However, I venture
to go on with this, knowing with wliat
goodness you receive my weak endea-
vours to amuse you. Soon after dinner
the marchesa Patrizzii came, and took us
to see the great Farnese palace, built by
Paul the Third for his natural son, whom
he made duke of Parma. This is the
finest piece of modern architecture that I
have seen, being the work of IMichae]
Angelo. Here is the famous gallery
painted by Annibal Caracci, which can-
not have too much said of it. Here also
is a celebrated statue of Hercules ; and
in a little pent-house near stands Au-
gustus on Horseback, of admirable work-
manship ; and the finest group now sub-
sisting of Tyino; aWoman to a Bull's Horns.
All these, as well as the unfurnished
palace, belong to the king of Naples.

53

They lie neglected, and are going fast to
ruin. I forbear mentioning porphyry
pillars, fountains, &c., for Rome is so full
of them, that, if I should take notice of
all its treasures of that sort, I should fill
my letters with nothing else. From hence
the marchesa carried us to her own house,
to drink tea in her closet ; which is fitted
up with all the taste of Italy, and all the
convenience of England. On green vel-
vet hangings are frames of white and gold,
filled with fine old china, quite white, to
a vast quantity. Her tea-table, her
books, her works, her easy-chair, and a
good fire in her chimney ; her own free
good-humour, and partiality to our coun-
try; made our afternoon extremely agree-
able. We finished the night by a visit to
the princess Borghese, all together.

And now, dear madam, I have a piece

of news to tell you that, I flatter myself,

will not be disagreeable : which is, that

wc are resolved not to go to Naples ; but

D 3

54

to set out for England directly iVum
hence, as soon as the pope's taking pos-
session is over. However, I beg I may
not be deprived of your letters, for they
will be sent after nie : and though they
should not reach nie till I see you, yet J
shall, in every place and company, think
myself enriched by them. My sincere
compliments, and those of my family, ever
attend you. Adieu !

II. L. POMFRET.
Rome, April 7, N. S.

55

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET *.

London, March 12, O. S., 1741.

It was a very great self-denial to me,
dear madam, to let the last mail go with-
out a letter for your ladyship : but we
went to Richkings, with a design to pass
only four days there ; and the ii^ght before
we were to come away, my lord Hartford
was seized w ith a severe fit of the gout,
which obliged me, as we were quite alone,
to sit whole days, and pretty late at
nights, in his room ; where the violence
of his pain made it impossible for me to
write, or, indeed, think of any thing but
what he suffered. However, I thank
God ! he is got well again. We came to
town on Saturday. Since which time an

* In answer to the letter in vol. ii., p. !255.
I) 4

30

accident has happened, which, I may own
to your ladyship, has cost mc abundance
of tears, and a very sincere affliction ; for
I have lost a very valuable old servant
(and, I may add, a faithful and tender
friend), who took me from my nurse ;
and, as she was neither by her birth nor
education designed for the station her
misfortunes had placed her in, my mother
entrusted her with the care of teaching us
what she thought necessary toward mak-
ing us reasonable women and Christians.
If her endeavours have not had all the
success she could have wished, we had no
body to blame but ourselves, since she
•certainly executed her part with the ut-
most prudence and fidelity. You will
not wonder, dear madam, that the death
of such a person touches me, who have
made so kind mention of one (whom I
fancy like her) in your charming verses.

I have been very agreeably entertained
with the little book you have been so good

SI

as to send me by Mr. Coke, and have
taken many turns in the Giardino del
Ridolfi.

I hear that Mrs. Conyers has received
most surprising benefit from taking Ward's
medicines ; so that I hope you will soon
have the good news of her perfect reco-
very. This, and every other happiness
to you and your family, is most sincerely
wished by,

Dear madam, &c. &c.,

F. Hartford.

d5

.OS

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD*.

Saturday.

This night ended the round of assemblies
to which I have been introduced ; and I
am now free to go, or not, as I please, for
the rest of my stay in this city.

After having returned some more visits,
I went at nine to call on the contcssa Bo-
lognetti, who conducted us to the signora
Falconieri's. Her apartment is a very fine
one ; and, as she is young and genteel,
her house was filled with the hcau monde.
As I had done to all the others, 1 did to
this — I staid till the end ; but, after the
fii'st time (that they have illuminated tlieir
best apartments, and made invitations to
their acquaintance to meet us), that will

* In answer to the last.

59

not be necessary; and I shall for the fu-
ture both go later, and return earlier ;
for I live with much more ease here,
than at any place I have been at for these
two years and three quarters. I mean
with respect to company ; for keeping
out of that, forms can be necessary no
where.

Sunday.

The bad weather this morning kept us
from going to see palaces, and the mass
from going to see churches ; so that, till
after dinner, I did not leave my own
comfortable lire-side. As it then ceased
to rain, I finished my visits, and returned
home to receive a friendly one from the
marchese Patrizzii ; who, with about a
dozen gentlemen, English and Italians,
drank tea and spent the evening Avith
us. We talked much of the Endish con-
quest over the French and Spanish in the
West Indies. I hope on Friday to hear
the confirmation of it from England; and

00

some particulars of the Prince Frederic
man-of-war, in Avhich I am principally
interested.

jNIonday.

As this was the day appointed to go
iigain to the Castle St. Angelo, we all
dressed in the morning, and dined early,
in order to be ready for the marchesa
Patrizzii, who came at four in the after-
noon. All the English were assembled
here, and, by calling on another lady in
our M'ay, Ave made a train of eight coaches
in all ; and were received by many more
gentlemen and ladies when we came
there. The entertainment was in the
.same manner as before ; but, as we had
more time, we went to the very top of the
fortress, and had a full and extensive
view of the Avhole Campagna Roniana.
We afterwards saw the little room where
cardinal Coscia lived seven years a close
prisoner, for his bad administration under

61

Benedict the Thirteenth, till the death of
his successor, Clement the Twelfth, re-
leased him, to sit in the conclave. The
old and new armoury were also shewn us.
Both the rooms are small ; and in the
first all the arms are out of use. Amongst
many other antiquated things, was a pistol
that had belonged to the constable Bour-
bon, the famous lover of the queen of
Navarre, killed in besieging Rome : and
also the red armour, half mail and half
silk, in which Clement the Eighth took
possession of Ferrara. The new room
was in good order; but the arms were
fewer than in any armoury I have seen
since I came abroad. We concluded the
evening in the marchesa Patrizzii's de-
lightful china-closet.

Tuesday.
This morning we went to the Palazzo
Pamfilia. This family had its last rise
from a pope of that name, called Inno-

6^2

cent the Tenth. The architecture is bad ;
but the collection of pictures within makes
it very well worth seeing. The apart-
ments are large ; and furnished, besides
the paintings, with gold and crimson vel-
vet. The tables are of antique marbles.
There is a great deal of fme old tapestry,
with the colours quite fresh ; and looking-
glasses in abundance adorn a gallery that
runs over the colonnade on all sides of
one of the square courts below. In this
palace are a great quantity of Gasper
Poussin's landscapes, lie was a menial
servant in the faniily, and worked for
eighteen-pence a day. Here are also his
brother Nicolo's Seven Sacraments ; and,
indeed, some piece of every famous ma-
ster ; and most of them in the utn.iost
perfection. I went from hence to sec a
celebrated statue of ]Meleager, found in a
private gentleman's garden about an hun-
dred years ago, almost entire. It is one
of the best in Rome.

63

After dinner I went to St. John de La-
teran's. This is the first cathedral of
Rome, and the church where all the em-
perors, after the division of the empire,
Avere crowned, and where every new
pope still comes to take possession. It
has five aisles. The middle aisle is very
large; and the twelve apostles, in white
marhle (by the best modern artists) are
placed, one between every arch that com-
poses it, under a canopy of grey marble,
supported by two pillars of verde antique.
On each side of this aisle are two lesser
aisles ; and beyond them, on each side, a
larger, in which are little chapels. The
ceiling is carved and gilt, and the pave-
ment Mosaic. Tills church was new
cleaned ; and a very beautiful portico
and front were built to it by the late
pope, as well as an extremely rich and
beautiful chepel adjoining, intended as a
burial place for himself and family. The
canons of the church are, however, so

64>

ungrateful as to deny his body entrance,
after all he did for their cathedral, unless
his heirs will pay a vast fine, which they
pretend they have a right to. About the
middle of this church lies, under a brass
bas-relievo of his figure, pope Martin the
Fifth, and the only one of the Colonna
family.

When we retuined home, lord Lincoln
and the other English came, and staid
with us till about nine ; when we went
to the signora Cenci's, where there Mere
some card-tables, and her best apartment
was lighted up to receive us.

Wednesday,

We dined to-day at jMr. Dashwood's,
and in the afternoon the contessa Bolo-
gnetti carried us to see the villa Patrizzii ;
but as it rained when we came there, it
was impossible to walk about it. FroUi
thence we went and drank coffee with the
baronessa Piccolomini; where, amongst

65

other company, 1 saw my lady Nithsdale*,
who managed so cleverly in getting her
lord out of the Tower the night before he
was to have been beheaded. She is now
grown very old, but has much of a wo-
man of quality, and is in great esteem
here : yet I was told, that, since the
death of her daughter, lady Bellew, she
seldom goes out, except to church. We
finished the evening at the contessa Bona-
relli's ; where there was a little assembly,
in a small but very pretty apartment.

Thursday.
This morning, by appointment, I called
on the signora Cenci, to go to the Monte

* The earl of Nithsdale was impeached for high
treason, in the year 1715, and condemned to lose
his head : he, however, made his escape in woman's
apparel, furnished and conveyed to him, not by
his lady, but his mother ; whom, doubtless, this
person was.

66

dc Pieta. This is certainly the greatest
pa\vnbroker*s shop in the world, and, in
its kind, one of the noblest charities.
Sixtus Quintus, observing the exorbitant
usury practised by the Jews, to the ruin
of all that were obliged to deal with them,
in borrowing money, gave encouragement
to this foundation ; whicli is supervised
by the pope's treasurer, and under him
managed by forty persons of the first
quality ; who elect one another, and meet
every Monday, and sit and consider how
to regulate and carry on their business :
which is done in the exactest riiethod
imaginable, each oificer under them
having his rooms, books, and parti-
cular employments. The building is
very large ; and all the several offices
are not only capacious, but many arc
Avell ornamented, and all convenient.
Any person that brings a pawn, may bor-
row from sixpence to tliirty crowns, with-
out paying any interest ; but all that is

67

lent above that sum pays after the rate of
two per cent per annum : at the end of
the year the borrower may renew, which is
done Avith no expense ; but at the end of
two years, if the pledge be not redeemed,
nor the interest of the money paid, the
pledge is sold, and the overplus of the
debt is laid by for the owner, who has it
in his power to demand it any time within
a hundred years. The goods fill whole
suits of rooms, from the lowest household
stuff to the finest jewels; and from the
year 1585, that it first began, to this day,
it has been carried on with so much order
and exactness, that the bank has never lost
a debt, nor any creditor a pawn; for not-
withstanding the vast number of pledges,
the. managers know immediately where to
find the most minute thing they vant. We
were received by conte Petroni, one of
the forty, in the council-room ; which is
hung with red damask and very good pic-
tures. He entertained us with ice and

6s

chocolate. Near this place is their little
church, of an oval form; the walls of which
are lined with verde antique, and are
adorned with pilasters of other fine niar-
bles, great basso-relievos, and statues of
white marble, finely executed. When we
had spent the morning here, we returned
home to dinner ; and at night we went to
the contessa Soderini's assembly, from
whence I am just returned to give you this
account of your faithful humble servant.

Friday.

We went this morning to see the palace
Albani, where there is a very good collec-
tion of pictures. In the furthest room of
the princess's apartment, the hangings are
of crimson velvet; and in the middle of
each piece, and over the doors, are worked,
in tapestry of different shades of gold, pic-
tures after the designs of Raphael, and
done in his life-time. This family was made
great by Clement the Eleventh, their uncle,

69

who reigned above twenty years. Having
time, we went from hence to see the Auro-
ra of Guido, painted on the ceihng of a
summer-house, in a Uttle garden belong-
ing to the Rospiglioso palace, one of the
residences of another pope's family. When
I came home I found your ladyship's let-
ter, which I read with real concern ; for
at our time of life to lose a person that
has known and loved one from a child, is
a misfortune which experience alone can
teach one the true sense of. But I will
not dwell on so moving a subject ; only
give me leave to add, that, if I live to re-
turn to England, I hope you will look on
me in the same light, as to the sincerity of
my esteem and affection for you, though
of a later date.

After dinner I went to see Santa Maria
Maggiore's church, the third cathedral of
Rome, and inferior to the others. A range
of marble columns, taken from an ancient
temple of Juno, on each side, divides the

70

body of the church into one great aisle
and two lesser ones. The only finery here
are tlie two side cliapcls — one built by Six-
tus Quintus, the other by Paul the Fifth;
both alike, and both extremely tine ; each
containing their founder's tomb. — Being
not far distant, I went to see the old
church of Santa Croce in GierusEilemmc,
said to be built by St. Helen, who, having
found and brought the cross of Christ into
Italy, first let it rest there. All this his-
tory is painted, by some very old master,
on the ceiling at the further end of the
church, which is small and no way fine.
I then went home to dress, and visit the
princess Borghese, where one always hears
what news is stirring from every })art of
the world. The disgrace of general I\lu-
nich ; the imprisonment of the cardinal
Zinzendorf; the execution of the grand
vizier ; with the actions of the king of
Prussia, and the joining of our fleet; were
the topics to-night. How they will affect

71

my dreams I do not know ; but, whilst I
wake, I am always your's,

H. L. Pom FRET.

P. S. — j\Iy lord Pomfret intends leaving
this place in a month : so be so good to di-
rect henceforward for me, and enclose your
letter to Mr. Smith, banker, at Venice.

Home, April 14, N. S., 1741.

TZ

TO THE COUNTESS- OF POMFRET.

London, March 19, 17-il.

The French mail is not yet come in: so
that I am still in expectation of hearing
that your ladyship and family have fixed
a time for leaving Florence. I shall be
heartily glad to hear of your safe arrival
at Rome : for the thou<2;hts of the fatigue
you are to sustain on the road thither,
will haunt me till I know you have passed
it without a return of your illness.

]\Iarriage seems once more to be coming
into fashion. ]My lord Sandwich was
married last week to miss Fane , and there
are several other matches ready against
Easter : among whom are my lord Aylcs-
ford's daughter, lady Frances Finch, to sir
William Courteney; j\Irs. Marsham to sir
Jacob Bouverie ; and Mrs. Elhvell to my

73

lord Onslow. They talk of several others,
one of which (if true) you are likely to
know more of than I, and that is lady Lucy
Manners to Mr. Conyers.

I hope the queen of Hungary's son s
birth will prove of as great consequence
towards settling the affairs of Europe, as I
am persuaded the elector palatine's death
will to the embroiling of them.

o

F. Hartford.

VOL. IIT. E

74

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD *.

Saturday.

I HAVE very little to tell you, dear ma-
clam, to-day ; having idled it all away at
home, till about two hours before night,
when I drove about the streets purely for
a little exercise, and in my way went into
a church belonging to the convent of St.
Cecilia. Here the nuns were performing
their office, which I heard from the gilded
grates tiiat run along the sides of the
church tOAvards the top. The altar here
is covered with a canopy of old Gothic
work in white and gold, and is supported
by four small pillars of antique marble : at
its foot is a fine recumbent statue, in white
marble, of the saint whose body is supposed

* In answer to the last.

75

to be buried here ; and before it, for the
breadth of the great aisle, is an enclo-
sure with rails of a fine pavement of all
sorts of beautiful marble. Upon these
rails, and about the church, are continually
burning an hundred lamps. In going out
I observed, just -within the door on one
side, a tomb of white marble, with a figure
in episcopal robes lying on it : in the mid-
dle were the arms of France and England
quartered, with the coronet used by the
younger children of our former kings : on
each side was St. George's cross in a
shield, under a cardinal's hat; and there
was an inscription, that no way informed
me who it was, dated 139-5. When I re-
turned home, our countrymen, as usual,
came and drank tea with us, and we all
went to the marchesa Patrizzii's assembly,
to conclude the evening.

Sunday.
Being ashamed to have entertained you
no better yesterday, I resolved to endea-

E 2

76

voiir at finding more variety for to-night,
and as soon as I had breakfasted I went to
the Barberini palace, in which I think they
reckon four thousand rooms. This was
produced from the riches acquired by the
family in the long poj)edom of their uncle,
Urban the Eighth. Here are collected
together vast quantities of painting, pillars,
bas-relievos, busts, tapestry, silver ves-
sels, &c. ; but they are so crowded and
ill kept, that they appear a heap of fine
things going to ruin as fast as possible :
and of the many apartments I passed
through, I could not see one comfortable
room, nor a })icce of furniture that seemed
to have been of any use since the death of
the first owner. However, it must be al-
lowed that there are here many pleasing
as well as fine things. There are a whole-
lens;th ^Magdalen, with two cherubims, by
Guide; a fine landsca])c, with the Angel
dictating the Gospel to St. Matthew, by Ni-
colo Poussin ; and a well-designed and

beautifully executed picture of Pietro di
Cortona, representing the Reconciliation of
Esau and Jacob. Of tliis last master there
are a great number of cartoons, as also
some hangings worked from his paintings.
In one of the rooms stood (as if the owner
did not know what to do with it) a square
ebony cabinet inlaid with silver finely en-
graved with figures and foliage; the first
representing the seasons of the year, the
geniuses of the several nations of the
world; and other emblems. It opens on
all sides ; has drawers ; is a writing-desk,
an organ, and a clock ; and all in very
elegant taste and pretty shape. It was a
present to pope Urban, and might have
been to any prince v.hatever. If I men-
tion no other particulars, you must not
conclude that the collection is defective,
but that I have omitted many things for
fear of tiring you, and because I did not
know how to praise them as tliey deserve.
After dinner I went out to visit churches ;
E 3

78

the first of which was that of St. Ignatius,
the founder of the Jesuit order. The cupola
is a master-piece of perspective ; for though
the ceihng is flat, it is so contrived by the
painting (which is all in black and white)
that from the middle of the great aisle it
appears not only to rise to a great height,
and be crowned with a lantern, but one
even sees the light that comes through it.
The side aisles are composed of little
chapels M'ith cupolas, some of tliein very
well painted in colours. There is one in
particular, dedicated to the saint, that has
(besides a vast many other ornaments)
four large twisted pillars of verde antique,
wreathed round with foliage of gilt brass,
and attended by two weeping cherubims in
white marble. Here too is a very fine
tomb of pope Gregory the Fifteenth.

From hence I went to another church
of the same order, where there is an altar
adorned with pillars of lapis lazuli, that
appeared fluted with gold. It is impossi-

79

ble to describe justly the beauty and riches
of these sacred fabrics ; and even that ot
the begging friars, called Carmelrtes, yields
to none for gilding, sculpture, painting,
marble, and neatness, though not so large
as any of the others which I have men-
tioned. The great church of the Carthu-
sians (a part of Dioclesian's baths) strikes
one with admiration ; not on account of
the ornaments, for there are few or none,
but from its height and size, and some re-
maining columns of great beauty. I saw
here, over against one another, the tombs of
two modern painters, very much and very
deservedly esteemed in their different ways;
Salvator Rosa for landscapes, and Carlo
Maratt for history. As the evening was
now coming on, I called on the marchesa
Patrizzii, to carry her to Mr. Pitt's, where
we were all invited to a concert of music.

Monday.
This morning the whole colony of En-
E 4

80

glish here were assembled at the Palazzo
Storzzi, where the princess di Forano, with
some other ladies and her two sons (the
duke and cavalier Storzzi), received us,
and having conducted us through a most
magnificentapartment (finely furnished, up
one pair of stairs) took us into the mez-
zanlni, where the family live. These are
lower rooms and more comfortably fur-
nished. Here we were shcAvn a very large
and fine collection of shells, intaglios, ca-
meos, medals, marbles, &:c. ; which (with
drinking chocolate) took up the whole
morning very agreeably; and we had hard-
ly time to get home and dine before the
hour arrived when we were all to be at the
marchesa Patrizzii's, who went with us to
see the Villa Pamfilia, a little way out of
the town. The gardens and farms about
it are tlie most agreeable imaginable;
and as I walked round the latter, 1
could not help fancying I was in an
English park. The house is very small.

81

but not without the Italian finery of busts,
pillars, &c. Fj'om hence we went to visit
the duchess Corsini, where, in the apart-
ment of the cardinal (nephew to the late
pope) there is a very pleasing and good
collection of pictures. This family have
made their own fortunes so well, that there
is little or no specie left in Rome. It is,
however, true that the city Avas beautified
with new paving the streets, and erecting
many public edifices, in that reign. In this
house (wheJ'e Christina queen of Sweden
lived and died) is all that luxury or gran-
deur can demand in furniture. The lady
is very agreeable, though the ridiculous
forms of the Italians prevent the princesses
and other ladies from living together, to
the great loss of the former, who, dismally
sitting alone, render a visit to them the
shorter the better. When ours was finish-
ed here, we with much more satisfaction
concluded the evening at the marchesa
Patrizzii's.

F. 5

82

Tuesday.

All the English dined here to-day, and
when they were gone we drove about the
streets till it grew dark ; when the signora
Cenci called on us to go and see the pre-
parations for the lottery that is to be
drawn to-morrow. The sight is neither
great nor entertaining; being only the
writing, stamping, registering, &c., of the
tickets in their different offices, in a large
house hired for the purpose. I should
scarcely have named this sight, but on ac-
count of the nature of the thing itself;
which is now practised in many parts of
Italy, to the utter ruin of the poorer sort
of people. These will often borrow,
pawn, and even steal, to purchase a ticket ;
which is to consist of five numbers; and
if all five come up, they have eighteen
thousand crowns. The method is, to put
a hundred bits of paper, numbered from
one to one hundred, into a silver vase, and

83

draw out five only, which are the winning
numbers. You will easily see how impro-
bable it is that any body should choose all
five right ; and two of the five must come
up to win any thing. The undertakers
are so sure of their gains, that they engage
to pay eighty thousand crowns yearly to
the pope for the liberty of making nine in
that time. It is said, by way of excuse
for robbing the people in this open way,
that when first the practice was begun at
Genoa, the strongest prohibitions were
made against any one's putting money into
it ; and some were even sent to the galleys
for doing so : but, finding all to no pur-
pose, the prince thought, since they would
play, that it was as well he should win as
another ; and set up this lottery to keep
the money at least in his own country.
The present great-duke has done the same
at Florence, upon the same pretence.
Having seen the drawing at Florence, I
have no curiosity to go to the same sight

84

here, and lose a morning from home. We
finished this evening at the contessa Bo-
lognetti's.

Wodnosday.

At five this afternoon the marchesa
Patrizzii called on us to go and see her
villa, and we were accompanied by all the
English. This is very prettily furnished,
and has a most delightful prospect all
round it. We walked from this to ano-
ther, with a very pretty garden, just within
the city walls, as the Patrizzii's is Just
without ; and having seen that, went and
drank coffee at her house in to^n : from
whence at nine o'clock we all went to the
marchesa Grimaldi's assembly. This kidy
was an heiress, and, after having been
married two or three years, came to Rome
to sue for a divorce, not liking her hus-
band. She was recommended to cardinal
Alexander Albani, by whose interest (aft-
er a long process) she was set at liberty,

85

and for whose friendship she has fixed at
Rome, though Bologna is her country.
Her house is furnished in the most elegant
manner, with a great number of curiosi-
ties. She has an assembly every Wednes-
day; entertains very handsomely, and
dresses very finely ; and all this upon an
income evidently much inferior to her ex-
pense. She is not a beauty, but is some-
what agreeable, very well bred, and does
not want sense.

Thursday.

Having employed all the morning in my
own room, I thought after dinner that it
was time to find something to divert you
at night, and for that purpose went to see
the palace of prince Giustiniani. In my
life I never saw a worse: the rooms (I
mean those of state, where the family never
live) were small, dark, dirty, and without
any furniture, except old leather chairs,
bad statues, and very indifferent pictures,

86

without frames. You will wonder, and
indeed I did, why I was taken thither ; but
at last I arrived at a gallery, once paint-
ed by Zucchero, but now covered with
mould, arising from damps, which emitted
no very agreeable smell. Here, on both
sides, stood as thick as possible three or
four rows of statues and busts, but so con-
fusedly, that it was hardly possible to di-
stinguish them as one ought. The place
much more resembled a sculptor's shop,
than the collection of a nobleman. Not-
withstanding a great many bad ones, it
must be allowed that there are here some
extremely fine ; as the Minerva that was
found entire in the ruins of her temple,
and was certainly the very deity adored
there. Two small statues of Marcus Au-
relius and Faustina his empress, are very
good, as well as the Conquering Gla-
diator; and two busts, one of Titus, and
the other of J upiter. But what, in my
mind, exceeded all the rest, was a goat

87

that really seemed alive, and is certainly a
master-piece of its kind. I went from
hence to make some visits, and then re-
turned home; my daughters having got
colds. The marchesa Patrizzii, with some
other company, spent the evening with us.

Friday.
This morning, after breakfast, I went to
the Vatican library, to see the collection of
Greek and Roman medallions bought by
the late pope and given to the public.
They are in gold, silver, and copper ; mostly
in good preservation, and some very fine ;
but the series is very far from being com-
plete. Having seen these, and being very
near St. Peter's church, I went into it and
found some workmen dressing it up in
crimson and gold for the beatification of a
new saint, Vhich is to be performed next
Sunday. This place, every time one sees
it, discovers new beauties, and makes one
always leave it unwillingly ; but the hopes

8S

of finding letters when I came home com-
pensated the loss ; and accordingly I had
the good fortune to receive one from your
ladyship ; and I was much pleased to
hear that marriage is not quite ohliterated
amongst my countrymen : that of Mr. Con-
yers I doubt ; his mother being still so ill,
though I hope out of danger. I am just
returned from spending the evening at the
baronessaPiccolomini's, where 1 went after
having been Avith the marchesa Patrizzii to
see the villa of the duke of Matteo. This
is situate amidst the ruins of old Rome,
and was once extremely pretty ; but by
the poverty of the owner it appears now
itself a ruin.

As we returned by the Colosseum, or
amphitheatre of Titus, we got out of the
coaches and walked through the vast round
area, Avhere the gladiators and the Mild
beasts were used to divert at one time
fourscore thousand people. Here are
still great remains of the building, but

89

not enough of the inside to give any idea
in what manner the ancients occupied it.
A great deal of the outwork has been pull-
ed down, to build the Farnese and Barbe-
rini palaces ; and there is now a little ora-
tory in one of the arches, and devout pic-
tures in other parts.

li. L. Pom FRET.

Rome, April 21, N. S , 1741.

DO

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Saturday,

This morning I finished seeing what they
call the palaces, though there yet remain
many that go by the name of villas, as ^veIl
within as without the walls. When I say
I have seen them all, I do not mean all
ihat deserve seeing, but all that the anti-
quary shews in his ordinary course of at-
tending strangers about Rome. We Mere
conducted to-day to the little Farnese,
where we saw the famous ceiling painted
by Raphael, of the whole history of Cupid
and Psyche, which, with the Rape of Gala-
tea, in another room, and the Aurora of
Guido (mentioned in a former letter)
pleases me better than any painting I ever
beheld in my life. This house belongs to
the king of Naples, and is in as neglected

91

a condition, as the great one of the same
name. We went afterwards to the church
of a convent called St. Pietro di Monto-
rio, where there is the celebrated picture
of the Transfiguration by Raphael; and
from the door of Avhich is a very agreeable
view over a great part of the city and
adjacent country. This church is not
without some very good ornaments; but
there are such variety and such a profu-
sion of the same kind all over Rome, that
it would be endless, as well as tiresome to
you, to enter into a particular description of
everything one looks on with pleasure. — I
did not go out after dinner till nine ; when
I divided the night between the signora
Falconieri's and the marchesa Patrizzii's
assemblies.

Sunday.
As the weather is now grown warm,
shall endeavour to let the evenings ap
proach before I leave my own apartment .

92

and according to that rule I passed this
day there. In the afternoon the contessa
Bolognetti called on us to go to the Corso ;
which being ended, we went and took up
the marchesa Patrizzii, and carried her to
lord Lincoln's; who had invited us all to
the finest concert Rome could afford, and
which was the best I ever heard. There
were all kinds of ice, chocolate, &c. ; and
the honours of the entertainment were
perfectly well performed. As it was St.
George's day, all the English wore red
crosses; which, when together, made a
considerable number and looked very
pretty.

IVIonday,

As soon as dinner was over we set out
to see St. Paul's church. To arrive at this
it was necessary to pass a great part of
the town, and cross the river Tiber, on
the shore of which we drove for some time,
and through planted fields, before we went

93

out of the gate of Rome which leads to
this old cathedral. The body of it is very
large and long, and I believe not origi-
nally designed for a church; but this is a
conceit of my own, from the difference
between that building and the upper part
of the cross upon it ; and because, round an
old Mosaic at the upper end, there is, in
letters of the same, an inscription, that
Theodorus began and Honorius finished
tliis hall. Forty Corinthian fluted pillars,
most of them of one piece each, formed
of a fine antique marble, white and veined,
make the large middle aisle. Beyond
these, on each side, are two other rows of
lesser marble pillars, but not fluted ; and
there neither are, nor appear ever to have
been, any side altars in the whole fabric,
though the upper part is full of them,
which confirms me in my opinion. In re-
turning I went and looked on Cestius's
tomb, now in the middle of the wall built
(long after that was erected) by Belisa-

P4

rius round the city. This monument is
in the form of a pyramid, of white marble,
without any. ornaments that could tempt a
robbery, and so has out-lasted all the
more illustrious piles raised to the me-
mory of greater men. Near this, and
within the city, there is a very extensive
hill, called Tcstaccio, composed of the
broken earthen-ware, that the Romans,
by a law, ^vere obliged to throw there, that
the Tiber might not be choked up with
rubbish. All the cellars of Rome are un-
der this, and doors from them surround it.
I'he extreme coldness in these, even in
the great heat of summer, is somewhat
surprising. AVe tasted some of their sv»eet
wine, as is customary. It is also usual to
cat bread and ham; but this ceremony we
omitted ; and a\ ith the setting sun re-
turned home, to drink tea with our coun-
trvmen.

95

Tuesday.

As soon as dinner was over, our guide
took us to see some of the antiquities or
remains of old Rome ; of which it is in-
credible how little one finds that have any
form to convey an idea of what they were,
or a guess for what designed, tliough old
walls, with quantities of bricks, arches,
&c., are spread all over the now deserted
part of Rome. In or near the Campo
Vaccino there is an old portico of Corin-
thian pillars ; and, joined to it, behind, a
modern church ; the inscription of which
I could read very plainly : this shews it
to have belonged to a temple dedicated
to Antoninus and Faustina. There are,
in several other parts of this place, one,
three, and sometimes more pillars, that
the guide told us belonged to temples to
this and thai deity of the ancients : but
Mhat grounds there are thus to attribute
them, I. have neither learning nor time to

96

know. The triumphal arch of Septimius
Severus, and that of Constantine (the last
raised from the ruins of Trajan's), are in-
contestable. Having looked at these, we
went to St. Stephen's church, once an an-
cient temple. It is circular, and has con-
sisted of three circles of pillars ; but at
present two only remain. A wall, built
between those of the outer circle, has,
represented on the inside, in very bad
painting, all the martyrdoms, real and
imaginary, that it will contain. As the
day was very Marm, I was glad to return
home and sit still a little, before I took
my course destined for this evening, — of
an hour with the marchesa Patrizzii ; an-
other with the marchesa Crescenci ; and
the rest of the night with the contessa
Bolognctti.

97

Wednesday.

This afternoon I went to see St. An-
drea della Noviziata. This is of an oval
shape, and the entrance is in the middle
of one side. Bernini was the architect;
and the beauty of the design is only to be
equalled by the beauty of its ornaments,
all parts corresponding. The variety of
rich marbles that line it (well sorted Avith
each other), the ceiling, and the floor,
join in making it altogether the most
complete, though perhaps the smallest,
church I have -yet seen. A sarcophagus
of St. Stanislaus, under one of the four
side altars, is very fine and curious, being
composed of lapis lazuli, ornamented with
gilt brass set with jewels, and silver che-
rubims. At the foot, and a little ad-
vanced, is a large stone, in the shape of a
heart, set round with gilt brass flames,
that, with a lamp burning continually be-
hind it, looks as if on fire indeed. AVhen

VOL. III. F

98

I returned home the marchesa Patrizzii
came, and, -with the English gentlemen,
drank coffee here. At ahout nine I went
to the marchesa Nari's assembly, and
from thence to the contessa Bonarelli s.

Thursday.

I have hardly more to say to-night,
than that I wish you a good one; having
only taken the air to-day about a mile
out of town, and seen one of the seven
churches that the pilgrims who come to
pay their devotions at Rome are obliged
to visit. This is dedicated to St. Loren-
zo ; and has many fine marble and gra-
nite pillars, the ruins of some ancient
temple ; with a curious Mosaic pavement,
and an antique sarcophagus, with a wed-
ding-sacrifice, worked in basso-relievo,
upon it, now turned into a Christian
tomb. The evening I divided betAvixt the
contessa Soderini's assembly and the mar-

m

chesa Patrizzii, who, not being well, staid
at home.

Friday.

The post from Florence having disap-
pointed me in the letter I expected to
receive from your ladyship, I will hope
that this was only occasioned from your
writing directly to Rome, and that the
German post will be more successful to
me on Tuesday. The marchcsa Patrizzii
has carried us to see three villas this
afternoon, which lie very near each other,
just out of the gate behind St. Peter's
church. The first is remarkable for the
extreme good order in which it is kept,
and is a very pretty \aneyard ; with a
pretty house, and fine prospect. The
second is called Vascello, from its form,
which, within and without, is like a man-
of-war. It was built by a French noble-
man, in the reign of Lewis the Fourteenth.
There is a gallery, the oddest I ever saw,

100

representing the body of the ship, with
outlets, as if to place cannons in. It
stands in a garden : and the whole is now
going to decay. The third belongs .to the
prince of Corsini ; and has a very agree-
able garden, with some large walks, where
the trees meet over head, to mitigate the
sun at noon and the wind at night; be-
sides a beautiful orangery, with fountains
of water playing : indeed, this last kind of
ornament is found in all tlie Roman villas ;
which are so numerous, that, were I to
stay here the whole summer, I am told
that I might fmd a new one to go to
every evening. This being finished so
agreeably, we went home and drank cof-
fee ; and, after that Avas over, went to the
princess Borghcse's : where the battle
which the queen of Hungary has lost to
the king of Prussia ; the marriage of the
prince of Modena to the heiress of j\las-
sa ; and the return of the French shi])s,
quite ruined, to Toulon ; made the news

101

of the night ; with which I conclude this
dull letter from

Your ever obliged, humble servant,

H. L. PoMf RET,

Rome, April 28,
N.S., 1741.

f 3

30^

TO THE COUNTERS OF POMFRET.

London, March 26, O. H., 1"41.

You were very good, my dear lady Pom-
fret, to think on me in all the hurry which
your removal from Florence must neces-
sarily have been attended with. I flatter
myself this will find you all safe at Rome ;
and I am sure you will be pleased amongst
so many monuments of ancient taste and
grandeur. If you should wish to have
any thing drawn after statues or other
antiquities, Mr. Dalton has a brother
studying there, who, I am assured, is by
far the best of any of the English artists,
and would be very much honoured
(though you should not care to buy any
thing), if you would give him leave to
shew you his Avork. He is always to be

103

heard of al Cqffi Francese, ndla Piazza
di S'pagna.

Assemblies are now so much in fa-
shion, that most persons fancy themselves
under a necessity of inviting all their ac-
quaintance three or four times to their
houses, — not in small parties, which would
be supportable, but tliey are all to come
at once : nor is it enough to engage mar-
ried people ; but the boys and girls sit
down as gravely to whist-tables, as fel-
lows of colleges used to do formerly. It is
actually a ridiculous, though I think a
mortifying sight, that play should become
the business of the nation, from the age
of fifteen to fourscore. I am to have one
of these rackets next Wednesday; and
you will easily believe that such a con-
course of people will not find too much
room in my house ; — not but that it is a
palace, when compared Mith some others,
where they have been more frequently.

Anotlier new mode has surprised the
r4

104

ungenteel part of us this week, — the
duchess of Queensbury having given
a ball last night ; and my lord Conway,
in honour of Maunday-Thursday, gives
another this evening. I am at present
confined with a most violent cold : but it
is almost impossible to be without one,
for the weather is much sharper than it
was even at Christmas. My head aches
so much, that I can add no more than the
assurance of my being.

Dear madam^ ever yours,

F. Hartford.

105

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD *.

Saturday.
Were I not too well pleased in fancying
that I talk to you every night, by this
manner of writing, I could easily omit
to-day, and yet conceal nothing of the
sights that Rome affords to strangers. I
have only been to make a visit to a lady
who lies-in (whom I dined in company
with two years ago at Leghorn), and
afterwards to the marchesa Patrizzii s as-
sembly.

Sunday.
This day we dined at twelve, in order
to be with the contessa Bolognetti at two,
who carried us into one of the side build-

* This letter answers the last.
F 5

106

ings of the Capitol ; the M'hole of which
was hung, on the outside of the walls,
with crimson velvet, and damask trimmed
\Hth gold. From one of the ^indoMS we
saw the cavalcade of the pope's going to
take possession of St. John Laterans
church. The procession wds (as all the
processions are) composed of too many
parts to be exactly remembered ; but, al-
together, it was very pretty. The white
horses, almost covered with red velvet,
embroidered with gold and silver, that
are the yearly tribute for the kingdom of
Naples, and of which there are twelve
now living, that went one by one : the
gentlemen of the pope's chamber, &c.,
that rode, dressed in red, trimmed with
ermine : the nobility of Rome in black,
with a great quantity of black silk lace
on their habits : tlie bishops in purple,
with green silk tassels in their black hats :
the cardinals in scarlet, with their hats
and mule-furniture of the same : the con-

107

servatori in yellow Imed with red, and
short gowns of the same : the great-con-
stable Colonna, in a particular robe of
black and yellow: the marchese Nari,
who by hereditary right carries the
standard of the church, with the dukes of
Storzzi and Corsini, captains of the
guard, on each side of him — all three in
bright armour, engraved, and gilt in the
ornamental parts, and very rich robes of
erunson, embroidered thick with gold and
silver where the annour did not cover:
the light-horse, which I described before,
with the addition of double plumes of red
and white feathers all round their hats :
the horse-guards in blue, lined with red,
and trimmed with gold : the open chariot,
the chair, the horse, the coach, and tlie
litter, of the pope, all crimson and gold j
besides another litter of tlic same that he
was carried in (preceded by a great
cross), dressed in his pontiiicul robes.

108

and blessing as he went the shouting,
kneeling crowd : with the several compa-
nies of foot-soldiers, clothed the same as
ours are in England, who closed the pro-
cession : made altogether a much finer
appearance than I expected ; notwith-
standing it has been the occasion of a
vast concourse of people from all parts
of Italy, and the stay of many other
strangers. I take it to be no otherwise a
religious ceremony, than that it is partly
composed of priests ; which, as the go-
vernment is composed of them too, is
absolutely necessary in the sovereign's
taking possession of his oifice : and this is
certainly the intention of it. Could the
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius,
that stands in the area of the Capitol,
have been endowed with knowledge, how
different would he have thought this high-
priest (who would not venture in his open
chariot because there was a little wind)

109

from his predecessor Julius Caesar ! — and
how would he have blushed to have been
in the same posture, with the ten old,
tottering, red hats that attended the now
pontifex ina.rimus ! All the way the ca-
valcade passed there was an enclosure of
scaffolds, hung with tapestry, silk, &c. ;
and near the little Farnese Palace, at the
expense of its owner (the king of Na-
ples), a triumphal arch was raised, for
his holiness to go with greater honour to
his cathedral. Having there performed
the necessary ceremony, he gave liis bless-
ing to the people from the balcony over
the door, the ordnance firing as usual.
At night the Capitol was illuminated from
top to bottom, as Avell as many private
houses; and there were bonfires about
the streets: but no public entertainment
was given. The good-natured marchesa
Patrizzii, hoAvever, gave us a dance in a
free way at her own house.

no

jMoncIay^
I was prevented by company from
going out early this afternoon, and had
rather time to drive to, than to see, the
church of St. Pietro in Vincola ; where
pope Julius the Second is buried, and
where, in tlie middle of his tomb, tliere is
a fine statue of jNIoses, by Alichacl An-
gelo. The church is noble and well-pro-
portioned, as far as the approaching night
would allow me to discover. I returned
home to new dress, and, whilst I was- do-
ing so, was told that a person from your
ladyship desired to speak with me. I
made what haste I could to go to him,
and found that it was Mr. Dalton's bro-
ther, who studies drawing here. I can-
not express to you how pleased I was to
see any body belonging to you at such a
distance. lie told me he had some
things to do for your ladyship and lord
Brooke, and has promised to bring them
to-morrow morning for me to sec. I

Ill

spent the evenirig with our friend the
marchesa Patrizzii.

Tuesday.

This morning i\Ir. Dalton came, as lie
had promised, and brought some statues
drawn in red chalk, that he said were for
lord Brooke, and some copies from the
little Farnese that he told me Avere for
your ladyship. There is a very visible
improvement from tlie first of his drawings
to those last finished, which indeed are as
good as any I have seen of the modern
artists. He himself has invented the
drawing with black and white upon
blue paper, which I am so pleased with,
that I have ventured to decide that he
shouW make out the gallery complete in
that way ; and have also desired him to add
the Galatea, that is in another room, by the
same master. If I have taken too much
upon me, it is easy for j\Ir. Dalton, in his
next letter to his brother, to contradict it;

112

otherwise the work will go on : and I am
endeavouring to get him leave to copy
some things out of the Capitol, an access
to which is at present somewhat diiBcult.
As I was going, after dinner, to take leave
of the contessa Bolognetti, who was to set
out in a few days for Florence, and from
thence to Bologna, where the family have
an estate, and from whence they originally
came, I met a gentleman's servant, \vho
was coming to me to excuse her not doing
so before she set out, which she had done
this morning as soon as it was day, I
then drove to the pope's medalist, where
I bought a small medal in silver struck on
his taking possession ; and I afterwards
■went, for an hour, to the signora Cenci's,
and for the rest of the evening to the mar-
chesa Patrizzii s.

Wednesday.

I went this afternoon to see St. Grego-
)-y's church ; where there are two very fine

113

modern statues of the saint and his mother,
and much fine painting by Guido, Domi-
nichino, and others. The latter, however,
being done on the wails of the several
chapels, the damps have now hardly left
them visible. I went, for half an hour,
with the marchesa Patrizzii, to take leave
of the marchesa Grimaldi, who goes into
the country to-morrow.

Thursday.
About noon to-day I went, as ap-
pointed, to the signora Cenci, who carried
me to see the Avorking of the tapestry,
which is done in a different manner from
what I have ever seen, the tent being set
edgewise. I stood on the right side, and
saw the figures as they grew. The work-
man is on the other side, and the picture
he works from behind hiin. The tapestry
is of several prices ; but the best is very
dear, if one can call so fine a thing dear at
any price ; it being brought to that perfec-

114

tron, that, in a head of St. ]\Iatthe\\ ., copy-
ing from Guido, I could find no difference
between the spirit of the painting and
that of the silk. ^.The colours here arc
as good as those in France ; but the designs
are much better and more justly executed.
The master has an apartment and nine
crowns a month allowed him from the
charity of St. INIicliacl. This is so noble
an institution that I cannot forbear giving
you a particular account of it, esteeming
it one of the greatest beauties of Rome,
both in itself and as it is reallv calculated
for the good of mankind. Innocent the
Twelfth, who died very soon after we nere
born, built and endowed this hospital, on
the bank of the Tiber, now called Ripa
Grande, and where the ancient Romans
kept their naval stores and had a temple
to Neptune. As to the present fabric, it
is noble and convenient, having two large
square courts. The first of these is com-
posed of lodgings, and the second and

115

largest (having a fine fountain continually
playing in the middle of it) of the shops
of the inhabitants. Two hundred poor
old men, and as many poor women (una-
ble to work) are here maintained with
great comfort. A hundred and eighty
boys are taken in at ten years old, and
maintained till one or two and twenty:
they are taught all sorts of trades, for
which purpose the best masters from every
country are obtained, and amongst these
are the tapestry- workers before mentioned.
When the young men go out, they have
the third of the profit of all their work
during the years they have been here, to
set them up in the world. Two hundred
and fifty young women are also main-
tained, and, at a convenient age, have
fortunes paid them, with which they are
obliged either to marry or make them-
selves nuns. But these are lodged at St.
John Lateran's (in the palace which pope
Sixtus Quintus built for himself and his

116

successors) and have their dinner sent
from hence every day. Three cardinals are
guardians of this hospital ; and the order
through every department is as extraordi-
nary as the charity is great. In the after-
noon I went to see two very fine churches-,
but, though different from any I have
hitherto seen, yet, as they are composed of
the same materials, I know not how to
find variety of words to distinguish them
to you.

All the evening I sat at home with Sophy *,
she not being well enough to go out. The
marchesa Patrizzii, the signora Cenci and
her daughter, the abate Niccolini, conte
Soderini, and others, besides the English,
spent the evening with us. Two of our
countrymen, Mr. Naylor and IVIr. Castle-
ton, left Rome this morning early.

* The eldest daughter of lord Pomfrct, married in
1744 to John earl Granville. She died in the fol-
lowing year.

117

Friday.

This morning I received from Florence
your ladyship's letter. As to what relates
to Mr. Dalton, you will find we have al-
ready met, and I need say no more on
that subject. Your assemblies and balls
are no unpleasing news to my young peo-
ple, whatever they may be to me, who, as
you find by this journal, live upon the
stage almost every moment. I am desired
to ask you whether the French dress pre-
vails amongst the most fashionable young
women. I was very near five miles di-
stant from my lodging to-day, and above
two of them through vineyards, walks of
old trees, and very imperfect remains of
great ruins, all of which were once the
most inhabited part of Rome, Mount
Palatine. Melancholy reflexion! — Through
this deserted way I went, with my two daugh-
ters, to see St. Sebastian's church, wliere
the saint lies in white marble so excellently

118

wrought, that, till I was assured the scul})-
tor was Giorgetti, I really believed the ar-
tist had taken some antique Adonis, and
had stuek darts into him to make him a
Christian saint. Having now visited the
seven churches of devotion, as Avell as
many others, I believe I have done with
that amusement, my time growing short,
and many fine villas yet remaining unseen.
We are just come from the marchesa Pa-
trizzii's.

II. L. POMFRET,

Rome, May .5, N. S., 1741.

119

TO THE COUNTi:SS OF HARTFORD.

Saturday,
As I Staid at home writing all this morn-
ing, and did not go out till late in the even-
ing, to the marchesa Patrizzii's assembly, I
have seen nothing to-day that can give
you the least amusement in relating. But
as I yesterday received a letter from signor
Uguccioni, with' the account of an adven-
ture that lately happened, I will place it
in my journal of this idle day. — A lady of
the Bagnese family being mp.rried to a
gentleman of Arezzo whose name Avas
Fossombrone, they were blessed with a
very beautiful daughter, whose wit and
manner equaled the rest of her charms.
These they thought a proper offering to
God, the donor, and accordingly sent
her, at ten years old, to the convent of St.

120

Catherine at Florence ; where having lived
even years, the day was appointed for
her taking the habit ; but, three days be-
fore, she was seized with a violent illness,
which confined her to her bed. Physi-
cians Avere sent for, but they could find no
distemper : upon which they concluded it
must be something on her mind ; and her
friends pressing for a declaration of the
truth, she confessed that she "was in
love with, and under mutual promises to
marry, a young man, son to the conte ]\Ion-
tanti (whose daughter I mentioned to you,
in afoniier letter from Florence, as having
seen her enter into a convent over against
where we lived, and at which ceremony
there was very fine music). Some of the
relations would willingly have dispensed
with the young people's engagement ; but
others over-ruled the objection; and they
are speedily to be married.

121

Sunday.
I had designed to go this morning in
search of some curiosities of antiquity, but
Mr. Parker not being in the way, I sat
down to read ; and left my book very un-
willingly for dinner : that over, the mar-
quis Beauvilliers, son to the French am-
bassador, came to conduct us to a convent
called the Sette Dolori. I cannot ima-
gine why, but this appears to have the
fewest nuns I ever saw in such a place.
The house is large and pleasant ; and each
female has two rooms to herself, prettily
furnished ; and several of the rooms have
chimneys. They receive all their friends*
visits, both men and women, in parlours
without grates. They go abroad with
their near relations ; and they make no
vow, but that of obedience to their supe-
rior. They are all people of quality, and
live in good esteem. The one that shewed
us the house was about six-and-twent}'^,

VOL. III. G

122

a very pretty brown woman, with a great
deal of wit and good-humour. She is of
the Giustiniani family, who were once
princes of the Isle of Scio, in the Archi-
pelago, where she Mas horn, and from
whence she came in an English ship. She
told us that she once understood a little
of our language ; but, not having heard
any English for fourteen years, it was quite
out of her memory. She had been at
Constantinople, Venice, ]\Iessina, Naples,
and in several assemblies at Rome, before
she took the habit, which seems rather a
convenience than a burthen to her. The
nuns live well in all respects, without any
trouble ; and sliould they wish to marry,
they are under no obligation not to do so,
though the incident has never yet hap-
pened. I sat at home the rest of tlie
evening with the marchesa Patrizzii, abate
Kiccolini, and our usual company.

123

Monday.

This morning my lord Lincoln, Mr.
Pitt, abb6 Grant, my lord Pomfret, my
daughters, and myself, set out in two
coaches to see Albano, a small city about
fourteen miles from Rome, the descendant
of the ancient Alba Longa built by Asca-
nius after the death of his father iEneas.
All along the side of the Appian Way (the
road to it) are remains of monuments, to
which tlie antiquaries give what names
they please; and others of the same profes-
sion write whole volumes to prove their
brethren mistaken, and to advance some
new opinion of their own, for a fresh set
to take the pains to contradict. Amongst
these contended structures, there is one
which is attributed to the Ploratii and Cu-
riatii, only because it is between Rome
and Alba, and has had five round pyra-
mids, raised on a large square base, built
all of white marble. One of the corner

124

pyramids is quite gone ; and vegetables
grow out of all the others. It would be
endless to name the whole, and the several
opinions concerning them. The most per-
fect, and the only incontestable one (be-
cause the old inscription remains), is that
of Cascilia Metella, daughter of that great
general Metellus Creticus. I was greatly
pleased with the gardens to the villa Bar-
berini, from whence we had a delightful
prospect of the whole country in which
Virgil lays his chief scene of action. We
could at the same time behold the realms
of Evander, Latinus, and Turnus, with
the hostile sea that brought their Trojan
guest and entmy. What mighty wars were
made in little space 1 On the other side
of this villa (built in part of the ruins of
of Domitian's) lies the lake now called
Castellano, from the castle Gondolfo, a
fortress and palace belonging to the pope,
that stands on a hill on one side of it. This
lake is six miles round ; and beyond it

125

rises a very high mountain, at the bottom
of which stands a convent in a very beau-
tiful situation. There are many villas in
the town of Albano, and about it : so that
in the autumn it is as full of company, for
its size, as Rome itself. — In the evening
we returned home, drest, and went to the
marchesa Patrizzii's.

Tuesday.
After having spent the morning in read-
ing and dress, as soon as dinner was over
I began my formal visits of taking leave,
and having made seven, returned home.
The abate Niccolini came to take his leave
of us. It is impossible to express enough
the gratitude we owe this man, who, from
an accidental meeting at the marchesa
Bichi s, w^hen we lived at Sienna, has since
studied to do every thing to make this
countiy agreeable to us ; and, not content-
ed with all his civilities in Tuscany and
Rome, has further offered us a house that
c 3

126"

lies on the road to Loretto, instead of an
inn, and given us a letter of recommenda-
tion to one of the noble Venetians. He
sets out to-morrow for Florence, where he
is guardian to his nephews. When they
are grown up he intends to make a jour-
ney to France and England, and then re-
turn and end his days at Rome. He at-
tended us to the marchesa Patrizzii's, where
we drank collec. We afterwards went,
for the last time, to the marchesa Crescen-
ci s assembly, and took leave of her.

Wednesday.
This morning, though it rained exces-
sively, I Avent to see the Villa Medici,
that stands on the top of the Monte di
Trinita. It was built, or at least fitted
up, by a cardinal di Medici. The back
front, towards the garden, is set with
fine basso-relievos, busts, and small sta-
tues ; and the portico, at the bottom of
it, has its arches filled with large ones. In

1527

a fountain just before it stands a little brass
Mercury, antique and light, as if he really
flew. Below this are, on one side, a Mars
by John di Bologna, and on the other an an-
cient Silenus with an infant Bacchus in his
arms, both of brass, and both very much
esteemed. Above stairs there is a gal-
lery full of sculpture and antique marble
pillars. Amongst the statues, what pleased
me best were a small Venus rising from
the sea, and an Apollo that was compa-
nion to the Venus of Medici now at Flo-
rence, whither the great-duke could not get
leave to convey this. I do not mention
many others that are really worth speaking
of, lest I should be too prolix. The gar-
den seems, from the windows, to be very
agreeable : but the rain continuing, I was
forced to return home without seeing it.
This afternoon was spent in visiting and
taking leave of the contessa Bonarelli's
and marchesa Nari's assemblies, and also
of the princess Borghese, who is a very
G 4

128

agreeable and well-bred woman. She of-
fered me, in the most obliging manner, a
a letter to a friend of hers at Venice,
which I was very glad to accept.

Thursday.

Lord Lincoln, and ^Ir. Spence * his
governor, Mw Pitt, and ^Ir. Iloldsworthf
his governor, with the abb6 Grant, and Mr.
Parker, dined at our lodgings to-day; after
which the marchesa Patrizzii came, and
carried us to see the Villa Lodovisia, which
has, in the further part of the garden, a
summer-house, with an Aurora in her cha-
riot, fuiely painted by Guercino, on the
ceiling. In the house, which is small,
there are several very fine statues, and in
particular two groups that I cannot omit
mentioning. One is a young senator and
his mother, the latter of whom is endea-

■•* The well-known author of Pulyinetis, d'C.
f The author of the Musapula.

129

vouring to discover some secrets of state
from him ; the other, Arria and Poetus, ex-
ti^emely affecting. He is supporting her
in one arm as she dies, and stabbing him-
self Avith the other. From hence we went
to the Villa Montalto, made by the nephew
of Sixtus Quintus. The garden is much
larger than the last, but not so pleasant.
There are here also many statues of the
best times ; one of these is an ancient gar-
dener : and two sitting consular statues in
the portico to the house are admirable.
Fine fountains are so frequent in Rome,
that I had almost forgotten to name a very
singular one here, with a statue of Neptune
at the top by Bernini. — As the night came
on we were obliged to leave our delightful
walks, for the necessary civility of taking
leave, and first went to the contessa Pe-
troni, who has been confined to her house
for some days. From her I went to the
contessa Soderini, and then to the agreea-
ble marchesa Patrizzii, from aa horn I ar»
G 5

150

just returned ; and though it is near twelve
am resolved to finish my letter to-night,
since I am to go on a party to-morrow that
will keep us out all day, and perhaps give
more subject for description than will con-
veniently come into this letter, already of
sufficient length to tire any person's pa-
tience but yours.

H. L. POMFEET.
Rome, May 11,N. S., 1741.

131

TO THE COUNTESS OF POINIFRET*.

London, March 30, O. S.
DEAK MADAM,

I HAD last night the pleasure to find, by
your most agreeable letter, that 3!^our
ladyship and your family were arrived
safe at Rome : and I could not let the
post go without my thanks for your good-
ness in thinking of me through all your
fatiguing journey.

I have met with an anecdote which I
have reason to believe is more true than
the historical novel I sent you last sum-
mer; and which accounts to me for the
great-duchess of Russia's having cooled
in her friendship to the queen of Hun-

* This letter answers lady Pomfret's first letter
from Rome, vol. ii. p. 284.

132

gary, and espoused the interest of the
king of Poland. When she was only
seventeen years old (at which time I do
not know whether she was in her father's
court, or the czarina's), a young Saxon
nobleman, on his travels, came to tlie
place where she then resided. The
beauty of his face, added to the graceful-
ness of his person and most agreeable
address, made such an impression on the
princess, that, before he had been there
many months, it was discovered that they
had a secret intelligence with each odier,
and that the princess's governess was in
the confidence. She was immediately
dismissed, and banished to some distance ;
and the young count desired to retire
out of that dominion. Some years after,
when the princess was married to the
prince of Brunswick, she openly mani-
fested her dislike of him. No sooner
had she imprisoned the duke of Cour-
land, but she recalled her old governess,

and distinguished her by a thousand
marks of favour. This was no sign that
her once-beloved count was entirely for-
gotten. Whether the king of Poland took
advantage of this conjuncture, or whether
accident only directed his choice, I can-
not tell — but he named- this nobleman his
ambassador to the princess regent. As
soon as the count Munich (who knew
their story) heard of his approach, he
despaired of being any longer able to
direct the councils at Petersburg, and
requested his dismissal, which was readily
granted.

I have been obliged to put off my com-
j)any on Wednesday by a violent cold
and inflammation on my lungs, which has
confined me to my chamber since Thurs-
day last. In this state of solitude and
idleness I wrote, the other morning, what
follows ; — and I am so accustomed to en-
trust you with my follies that I would not
conceal this.

134

TO THE EAST WIND.

Merciless Wind! withhold thy blast,
Nor thus my cheerful hopes destroy :

Thy breath lays all my pastures waste,
And nips each springing rural joy.

No tufted herbs nor grass appear,

Thy boist'rous rage is so severe.

My harmless lambs upon the green
Were wont to frisk in wanton play.

But shiv'ring now and dull are seen.
Bleating beside the racks for hay :

The blossoms from my pear-trees fall.

And naked leave the western wall.

That wall, which us'd to charm my sight
With varied blooms adorn'd and gay.

Can now afford me no delight,

Whilst you its glories sweep away :

If in my borders vi'lets blow,

You bury them in flakes of snow.

The feathcr'd choir amongst yon groves.
By genial Spring's return inspir'd,

Who us'd in songs to tell their loves.
Now, cold and silent, sit retir'd.

Now faintly e'en the turtles coo.

Since Winter comes again with you.

135

Those shady elms, — my fav'rite trees,
Which near my Percy's window grew,

(Studious his leisure hours to please),
I deck'd last year — for smell and shew

To each a fragrant woodbine bound ;

A;id edg'd with pinks the verdant mound.

Nor yet the areas left ungrac'd
Betwixt the borders and each tree.

But on them damask roses plac'd.
Which, rising in a just degree,

Their glowing lustre through the green

Might add fresh beauties to the scene :—

But, cruel ! they beneath thee fade.
And ev'ry tender shoot decays ;

E'en daffodils, of thee afraid.

Their golden heads unwilling raise :

Nor this thy malice can suffice,

That, shrunk by thee, each fiow'ret dies :

My lab'ring lungs, too, feel thy pow'r,
By thee with trickling rheums oppress'dj

While coughs prolong the midnight hour,
And rob me of my balmy rest :

Then quick to other climates fly,

And bluster in some distant sky.

136

I ought to be ashamed, dear madanij
of the trifles I trouble you with ; but they
are a sort of quit-rent, — which, though
only geese and pepper-corns, no honest
tenants would withhold from those pa-
trons under whose favour they enjoy a
comfortable estate. I need not apply
this ; — your own heart, in spite of mo-
desty or partiality, must do it for me, — if
it is to yourself as just as to all the world
besides.

I hear Mr. Frankland is going to try
whether he can find a married life more
agreeable with miss Fanny Meadows than
with our poor old acquaintance. Adieu,
dearest madam !

F. Hartfort.

137

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMF RET *.

London, April 9, O. S., 1741.

No one could be more unlucky than I
was last week about the letter I wrote to
your ladyship. I sent it to the foreign
post-house, in Albemarle-street, on Tues-
da}'^, and my footman gave sixteen-pence
with it. On Thursday night it came back
to me, with a note from the general post-
ofRce, to say that the man in Albemarle-
street had made a mistake, and should
have taken two shillings, because it was a
double letter. I was so vexed at this
disappointment that I would not send it
back to them; and, therefore, on Friday
sent it to Mr. Ramsden at the secretary's
office. He was gone out when it came,

* This answers the letter in vol, ii., p. 293.

138

and sent me word the next day that he
knew of no way of conveying it by Hol-
land, but would take care to forward it
through France by IMonday's post ; Avhich
he has done.

I trouble you with all this long history
only to convince you that I was neither
stupid nor ungrateful enough to omit
writing, according both to my promise and
inclination. Your letters are ahvays the
greatest pleasures of my life : — and you
have given me so high an idea of Rome
that I could almost wish to recall years and
strength to employ them in seeing such
vast treasures of antiquity. The modern
Mosaic (in your description) charms and
amazes me still more tlian any of the
other curiosities you mention. Either
Dr. Middleton (whose life of Tally I am
just reading), or your ciceroni, is under
a mistake about the time when the brass
Wolf was struck with lightning, since the
former says it was just before the disco-

139

very of Catiline's conspiracy. One avouM
think you had reason to believe that you
had laid a very sufficient obligation on
me (for the liberty you so kindly gave me
to trouble you), by bespeaking me a
set of prints which are now engraving,
after the rarities of the Capitol — and I
feel it in that light ; but lord Brooke and
my daughter have begged me so earnestly
to intercede with you to do them the
same favour that I could not refuse them.
There is also a friend of my lord's (to
whom he has great obligations) who
would be very happy if you would per-
mit him to hope for, the same indulgence.
He is very curious in that Avay; and has
been at great pains and expense to make
a collection of valuable books and prints,
&c. I am sincerely ashamed to be thus
impertinent ; — but, my dear lady Pomfret,
you must suffer me to make a bargain, to
retract every word that I have written,
unless you will allow me, for myself and

140

these interlopers, to pay for what I have
desired you to order.

I hope to date my next letter from
Richkings ; for the wind is changed, and
has brought some warm showers, which
will make the country very pleasant ; and
my lord and I have both terrible colds.
1 was obliged to be bled yesterday for a
very bad sore throat, which I cannot say
is yet relieved by that operation. How-
ever, I must leave both my cold and my
farm to thank you for the piece of the
ancient winding-sheet, and for the me-
morable account that the building of St.
Peter's church was the immediate cause
of the Reformation.

Princess Louisa is ill of an intermitting
fever ; as, indeed, most })eople are of
something or other. Lord and lady Nas-
sau Paulet arc in terrible grief for the
loss of their only son, who died last night
of the small-})0x. My lord Conway is
very soon to be married to lady Bell Fitz-

141

roy ; and the town says that lady Caro-
line is resolved to make a double alliance,
by marrying his younger brother.

F. Hartford.

142

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD*.

Friday,

Before I begin to give an account of
my employment, I must, my dear lady
Hartford, return you the thanks I so
justly owe for the pleasure of two very
agreeable letters, Avith a truly poetical
address to the East Wind. The thought
is new, and the language charming. I
have found out that it goes to the tune of
'''■All in the Dozvus,"' &c., and have made
one of my young ones sing it : it will be
our chief entertainment on the road to
Loretto. I can never say enough for
your great exactness in making me happy
as often as possible : l)ut what you have

* This letter answers the two last.

143

been solicitous to procure me, you have
(by that very care) deprived me of, — for
Mr. Ramsden still sends your letters to
Mr. Mann at Florence, and that makes
them full a week longer in coming than
they would otherwise be : now, if you do
not write directly to Venice by Holland,
God knows when they will come, for I
leave this place in a few days, and stay
but few in any other before I quit Italy.
— But I forgot that I am still in Rome ;
and, as I have several things to see, so
you have some to hear, before I take my
final leave.

This morning, about nine, we went,
with lord Lincoln, Mr. Pitt, ]\Ir. Holds-
worth, and the abbe Grant, in two
coaches, to Frescati ; which has its ori-
ginal from the Tusciilum of the ancients :
on the tops of whose hills, as well as on
those of Albano, were the houses of plea-
sure belonging to the consuls, senators,
and emperors of Rome. When their

144

northern enemies destroyed the country,
a few poor people, driven from the upper
countries, made huts with twigs or Jras-
chi : tliese huts became afterwards better
houses, and in time tlie nobility of new
Rome chose this situation for their villas :
and, indeed, they could not choose a
better. The variety of the ground, the
W'Ood, the prospect, and command of
water, make this new Frescati (as they
have improved it) a litde Paradise. The
prince Borghese has two houses here,
with a vast garden, or rather park, be-
tween them. Signor Falconieri's is only
divided from those before mentioned by
an iron gate ; from whence another gate
leads to that of Pomfilia, called Belve-
dere, where, by the force of water, a Tri-
ton sounds a shell, and Polyphemus plays
very prettily on reeds. We concluded
with seeing another of these delightful
habitations, belonging to the family of
Conti, — not because there were no more

145

villas (for the country is strewed over
with them), but because we had no more
time.

In returning home we looked into a
church of a convent, which it is said
stands on the same ground where Cicero
had his villa ; — but, for ought I know, it
may be as distant from it, as the time
when the brass Wolf was really struck
with lightning and that which my anti-
quary assigned for it; M'ho, you guess
rightly, is very ignorant, but, in other re-
spects, useful and civil. Having dined
in the city of Frescati, we returned home,
too much tired to go out again ; and the
marchesa Patrizzii came and spent the
evening with us. ^

Saturday.

This day we all dined at lord Lincoln's;

after which I went to visit the duchess of

Corsini, who has miscarried, and receives

company in bed. After this I went to

VOL. III. H

146'

thank and take leave of the signora Cen-
ci ; and from her to the signora Falco-
nieri's assembly, just to take leave : and
I then concluded, as usual, with the mar-
chesa Patrizzii.

Sunday.

This afternoon I went to see a place
called Papa Giulio. It is the shell of a
house, built by the third pope of that
name, and never finished. The archi-
tecture is the prettiest imaginable, with
many antique pillars, well disposed in
beautiful colonnades and open porticoes,
not standing without base, cornice, or any
meaning, as the pillars do in most of the
collections here. In the evening lord
Lincoln came to take leave of us, being
to set out to-morrow for Reggio, where I
am told there is a very fine 0})era. The
marchesa Patrizzii, and our usual com-
pany, drank tea with us.

147

Monday.

I went this morning to some shops only ;
and in the afternoon the marchesa Pa-
trizzii came, and took us to walk in the
gardens of the Villa Medici. These are
very pretty; and have, in one place, the
statues of Niobe and her children, found
some time ago in an adjacent field. They
are highly esteemed ; — but the subject is
too dreadful to please me. We after-
wards went home to the marchesa's house,
and finished the evening with her.

Tuesday.
Having found myself not very well for
some days past, I was bled this morning,
and found immediate benefit by it, — so
that I drove all about the town from din-
ner till it grew dark, and then returned
home J where the marchesa Patrizzii spent
the evening with us. The conte Petroni
came to take leave of us ; and ver};^ oblig-
H 2

148

inglytold us, that his house, about four
posts off, should be prepared to receive
us, instead of an inn, which we very
gladly accepted.

Wednesday.
This morning my daughters and myself
went to St. Peter's church, where, by ap-
pointment, the architect waited to shew
us all the inside of the building ; that is,
the rooms, galleries, and stair-cases taken
out of the thickness of the walls, witliout
being perceived. Of the rooms there are
sixty, beautifully proportioned, some with
cupolas, and all stuccoed ; as are also the
galleries that run round every part of the
building. There are five stair-cases, that
seem like round towers, by which one
ascends to the top of the church without
steps. The top is all paved with tiles;
and the building from thence appears a
city of itself, from the number of greater

149

and smaller cupolas that are on it. Hav-
ing seen the contrivance and order of one
part, by which we could judge of the rest,
I went to the upper lantern, from whence
the city and country appear beautiful be-
yond imagination. Not contented with
this, I would go into the very ball ; which
having, with some pains, effected, I only
found myself in a burning brass caldron,
from whence I could see nothing ; — ^yet
my sense of feeling being sufficiently em-
ployed for all the rest, I descended, lest
I should perish like the Sicilian delin-
quents.

After dinner Ave went about two miles
out of town, and then entered a wood,
through which we ascended a hill for very
near another mile. About the middle of
this mountain of trees (called Monte
Mario) there is a villa, which was begun
either by Leo the Tenth or Clement the
Seventh, when cardinal; for the Medici
II 3

150

arms, with the red hat, are to be obsei*ved
in a portico that is finely painted and fur-
nished with statues, and also in another
very fine room. Beyond the house the
wood rises as high again; and in one
part of it is formed a theatre, with seats
for the audience. There is a cave, with a
spring at the extremity ; and trees grow-
ing and hanging over from rocks, answer
for the side scenes. A cascade falls from
the stage into tlie middle of a meadow,
where the prince and princess (whose
wedding it was written to celebrate) first
heard the play of Pastor Fido.

From this enchanting place I hastened
home, to take my last leave of the only
person that I have known since I left
England with whom I could wish to
spend some part of every day, viz. the
marchesa Patrizzii, Avhom you have found
so often mentioned in these my journals.
She- is about my own age ; is sensible and

151

good-natured ; has wit, virtue, and ho-
nour. She has sheAvn us the greatest
civilities; and, in short, is become the
plague I had a presage of in my unwil-
lingness to begin a new journey from Flo-
rence,— whose charms alone consisted in
a good situation, and no disturbance :
but Rome can, for itself, its liberty, and
some few of its inhabitants, make me do
what I thought I never could for any
place but my native .country — leave it
with regret, and a wish to return again
before I die.

Did not I think it a sin to friendship
to conceal any thought I have from you,
I might as well have omitted this part of
my letter : but, such as I am, you know
me all ; and, whatever the composition
is, be assured that it is constantly devoted
to your service.

We set out to-morrow : and I leave
this letter to be sent you by the same per-
H 4

152

son whom I have ordered to get the four
sets of prints as soon as they are pub-
lished.— Why all tliose compliments about
them ? Adieu !

H. L. PoMrRET.

Rome, May 17,
N.S., 1/41.

153

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

T

Thursday, 18.
About noon we set out in post-chaises,
accompanied by Mr. Pitt and abbe Grant
on horseback, and left Rome at the same
gate by which we entered it. Then pass-
ing the Ponte Molle, from whence it is
said the Cross appeared to Constantine,
inscribed " hi hoc signo vinces, " we
continued our road through an open
country, with corn fields and wood, on
the Flaminian Way, for four posts ; when,
climbing the rock from whence the Tiber
descends, we arrived at a small city ;
where, in the house of count Petroni, we
found a supper prepared for us. Having
finished this, I am retired into my room
to bid you a good night before I go to
bed, at Civita Castellana.
II 5

154

Friday, 1().

This morning, at six, we took leave of
Mr. Pitt and a})be Grant, who had come
so far in compliment to us, and are re-
turned to Rome to the friends we left
behind.

The country we passed through was
full of variety, and very agreeable, till we
came to ascend the mountains and rocks
of Narni, at the top of which we found
that city, and on the other side of it a
beautiful plain, Avhich lasted till we came
to Terni : and here advancing further
into the Apennines, we travelled as we
did from Marseilles to Toulon, only these
hills are fruitful, covered with trees, and
have now and then a small plain, and fre-
quently houses, on the sides of them. In
a little house on the very highest of these
eminences we ate some eggs and fish, and
drank very good wine. We soon after-
wards came to the plain of Foligno, but
not till the moon had for two hours sup-

155

plied the place of her absent brother : at
which time we arrived at the house of the
abate Niccolini, who, being there, re-
ceived us with great pleasure, and enter-
tained us very nobly. We have talked
away so much of the night, that I have
not more than four hours to* sleep ; but
were they still fewer, I should, neverthe-
less, make them pay you the tribute of as
many minutes as will serve to assure you
of my most affectionate remembrance
from Foligno.

Saturday, 20.

And now the rising sun allows me moi'e
clearly to distinguish the surrounding coun-
try J which is even, well planted, and Ava-
tered. The small estate of the abate is
kept in great order; and (as far as the
eye can reach) all his neighbours seem
to do the same by theirs. But I was
called from this prospect to drink choco-
late, and take leave, v/hich I did not do

156

without regret, having very justly a great
esteem for my host.

We had not travelled far before we
found ourselves in the very midst of the
Apennines — the most wonderful and most
enchanting country I ever saw, and far
beyond what any person can imagine who
has not seen it. The mountains are of
prodigious height, and so intermixed that
there seems no passage through ; yet we
threaded them, sometimes climbing, some-
times descending, but oftener running on
a road cut in the middle of them : some
are barren, some covered with common
wood, and others with corn and olives.
In the bottom we had here and there a
river, which had made itself a bed through
meadows full of cattle : nor were there
wanting villages nor corn fields in the
most unexpected places, on the sides, and
even on the tops, of mountains ; the sum-
mits of which having gained, and thinking
nothing could be above them, we often

157

only found ourselves at the bottom of
others still loftier. Here hermitages
would appear as if stuck into the clefts of
tlie rock, and old ruined fortresses that
have scarcely left a name. Below, the
fir and cypress, joined with other trees,
made a gloomy retreat for the torrents
that fell roaring from above ; and the
evening sun gave a lustre to the whole,
which finished in a rich and delightfiil
plain, where the rising grain, the gentle
murmurs of the river, the green meadows,
the elms twined round with vines, the
solitary chapels, with here and there some
broken piece of ancient sculpture ; the
rural villages, and their simple inhabi-
tants; the singing of the birds, and the
natural perfumes that arose from the
SAveet herbs and flowers, — both soothed
and waked the soul, to find and to adore
tlie Great Creator.

15S

Thus at life's entrance: — smooth the flow'ry way.
Clear runs the spring, young trees with blossoms

gay,

The sky serene, and distant views inspire

To seek for unknown good — a strange desire.

How oft, allur'd by this, in lab'rinths lost

Of horrid rocks, that guard the wish'd-for coast i

Whilst here and there some trifling pleasures seize.

And lull our thoughts with intervals of case.

In these reflexions as my chariot run
Just in the road that Phoebus taught his son.
When I look'd down on roaring waves below.
That carry ruin wheresoe'er they flow.
Depths beyond depths with terror struck my sight.
Yet not unmix'd with somewhat of delight,
That, rais'd above them, I securely go.
Though far beneath the lofty mountain's brow :
Which now with olives, then with fertile graia,
Entice the passenger to quit the plain.
Oft in the barren rock's most sharp ascent.
Where of no human footstep seems a print,
Some solitary hermitage appears,
Where sinners, turn'd to saints, in pray'rs and

tears
Would fain redeem the loss of younger years.

159

But on the very summit rais'd on high,
So rais'd as scarce the object of the eye,
Stands many an ancient castle's batter'd wall,—
The true example of their masters' fall ;
Who, flush'd with conquest, or tyrannic sway,
Aspir'd from high to make the world obey.
So, till the evening, varied was my scene ;
When, whirling down the steep, I reach'd the plain.
Here corn and wine united bless the soil,
And cool retreats repay the lab'rer's toil :
On verdant meadows graze the harmless kind ;
Whilst Nature's sweetest scents perfume the wind :
The fountains, bubbling, yield a pleasing sound ;
And all the feather'd choir their Maker's praise re-
sound.
A venerable grove, for ages known,
Of evergreens, and elms, and oaks unshorn,
And flow'ry shrubs, with diff* rent colours blown,-
Enclose the sides : — and just within its shade.
Where the sun darts obliquely o'er the glade,
As if alone for contemplation made,
A neat convenient habitation stood ;
And near, a chapel, further in the wood.

Here to myself I sigh'd, — and silent pray'd
That God the omen had propitious made :
That such the evening of my life might be ;
From anxious cares and doubts for others free ]

I
}

160

With means to join in unpolluted praise,
And humbly to enjoy the remnant of my days,
Bless'd with a friend that's noble, equal, true : —
And such a friend I trust to find in you.

Having thus passed and left the Apen*
nines, we are lodged for this night at the
city of Macerata.

Sunday, 21.
We did not set out till ten this morn-
ing, having but two posts to go. The
first remarkable place we came to was
the city of Recanati ; going out of Avhich
I first saw the Adriatic Sea, that bounded
a very agreeable prospect, — for all this
country is fine. From hence we went on,
and finished our journey about two in the
afternoon. It is incredible (to those Avho
do not see them) what a number of pil-
grims of all sorts crowd here continually.
The street (for the city has but one) is so
full of people that I could hardly walk
ten yards to a bead-shop, — that being all

the amusement I could have to-day, for
the church was shut before our dinner
was finished. I have time enough, and
think enough of you, to say a great deal
more ; but, as I made yesterday very long,
I must cut to-day short, that I may bring
my week into some compass ; for which
reason I hasten to bid you adieu from
Loretto.

Monday, 22.
As soon as breakfast was over, we went
to the Santa Casa : the original of which,
and the manner of its giving birth to the
city it stands in, are so Avell known as to
need no account here. Should you, how-
ever, Avish to have any information of
its apocryphal history, I will shew you
(when we meet) the little book that is
sold here respecting it ; which contains a
catalogue of all the presents made to the
idol of the place, — too numerous for me
to recollect the fifth part of them. This
I cannot omit, that the richest gift came

I()2

from a queen of England*. It is a
golden angel holding a heart all covered
over with diamonds, out of which comes
a flame of the same metal, powdered Avith
ruhies. The mother of this lady's hus-
band sent her heart also, encircled with
diamonds, with the Virgin's cipher in the
same on one side, and her own on the
other : it opens, and one half contains
the Virgin and Christ in enamel ; tlie
other half shcAvs herself kneeling in her
coronation robes. — 111 fated, ill judging
princesses ! how dear their superstition
cost their husbands and themselves ! Be-
fore this church is the statue, in bronze,
of Sixtus Quintus, who declared Loretta
a city.

Having dined, we renewed our jour-
ney, though it rained very hard ; and not
far out of the town met a vast company of

* INIaria d'Est^, princess of Modena, second
wife of king James the Second,

163

people (chiefly women), some on asses,
some on foot, and some in chaises, pre-
ceded by a religious banner and a cross,
with two men singing some hynm to the
Virgin, in stanzas, at the close of each of
which the whole body of them joined in
chorus " Vi—va Ma—ri—cr three times.
But, leaving them to pursue their ill-
placed devotion, — for all seek one end,
though most mistake the way, — we follow-
ed ours, and by night arrived at a port
town, to which we were obliged to ascend
a veiy high rock. Our reception, how-
ever, made us amends for the trouble, —
a Swiss merchant that we were recom-
mended to giving us a good supper, as
well as a clean lodging ; so that, with the
prospect of resting well, I wish the same
to you from Ancona.

Tuesday.
This city was built originally by tlie
Syracusans, who fled from tlie tyranny of

16'4

Dionysius ; and, falling under the govern-
ment of the Romans, became afterwards
one of the most considerable ports in
Italy. The emperor Trajan restoring
and beautifying it Avith great expense,
occasioned the senate to raise a triumphal
arch here to his memory, that remains
as fresh as the day it was built (which is
attributed to the clearness of the air),
only despoiled of its bas-relievos and brass
ornaments. To see this, and the new
works of the late pope, Mr. Davel (such
is our merchant's name) prevailed with
my lord to rest all day here. His house
is a very large palace, which he hires at
a small rent. It looks on the sea ; and
once lodged Christina queen of Sweden.
— When breakfast was over, we went in a
coach to the old port, which Clement the
Twelfth had begun to enlarge, but, dy-
ing just as the sixth part Avas finished, the
work is now stopped. That which he
lived to make more complete (and what

165

I believe is tlie finest thing of the sort
now subsisting) is the Lazaretto, or
plaqe where persons and goods that come
from the Levant are to perform their
quarantine. It is an island, in the form
of a pentagon, built in the sea. The in-
ner part is capable of lodging, with all
convenience, five thousand people, and
more goods than the whole Levant trade
furnishes. In the centre is a little chapel
of the same figure : and the whole is en-
compassed with terraces, parapets, &c. ;
which make it more resemble a fortress
than an hospital. To this we passed from
the port in a boat ; and, as the weather
was very fine, nothing could be more
agreeable.

After we had returned the same way,
we mounted a prodigious height in the
coach to see the cathedral ; from the
door of which, the city, that lies on the side
of a hill round the bay in an exact half-
moon, the vessels in the harbour, the

l66

8ea, and the country that bounds it, made
a most delightful prospect. The church
is very old, and has nothing extraordi-
nary in it; especially after having seen
those at Rome. It is dedicated to St. Cy-
riack, their bishop, who found the Cross
for St. Helena, and whose bones are much
reverenced here.

We returned to a very good dinner,
and spent the rest of the day in quiet :
still at Ancona.

Wednesday, 2i.

We took our leave of My. Davel early
this morning ; who, having given us cho-
colate for breakfast, ordered his coach to
carry us out of the town, Avhere we got
into our chaises ; and, running most part
of the way with one wheel in the sea, we
arrived about noon at Pesaro, having
passed Sinigallia and Fano. Here we
left the shore, but continued our way on
very good roads, till we arrived at so bad

167

an inn that I have hardly spirits to bid
you good night from Rimini.

Thursday, 25.

Having a great journey to make, we set
out early. The country is all flat, en-
closed with hedges kept with great exact-
ness. The fields within them are full of
corn, in which tlie poppies make a pretty
mixture. They are planted all over, in
even rows, with trees; some mulberries,
some elms cut in cups, with the vines
twining round them, and hanging in fes-
toons from one to the other. Our road
seemed the great terrace to this vast gar-
den, now and then watered by a river,
and often ornamented by a town, most of
which have some small relic of the Ro-
man empire. The villages are neat, and
the way full of passengers : as, indeed, it
is throughout the whole country we have
travelled.

By the light of the moon we entered

168

Bologna : where we found signor Uguc-
cioni ; who has heen at Reggio, and in-
tends going Mith us to Venice. I need
not tell you that we were very glad to see
a person from whom we have received so
many civilities, and with whom we have
lived so long in friendship.

An account of this city, and my enter-
tainment here, I shall leave till another
post, having exceeded the week, and com-
pleted my journal, as well as sufficiently
tried your ladyship's patience ; to whose
well-known protection I commit

Your faithful friend and servant,

H. L. POMFRET.

Bologna, May 25,
N.S., 1741.

169

TO THE COUNTESS OP HARTFORD.

Friday.

Our first care this morning was to get
into a better lodging, the inn being so
nasty and noisy that we could not sleep
last night, though heartily tired with our
long journey. By signor Uguccioni's
help we attained what we desired ; and
are now in a very pretty hous'e, where we
eat well.

About six in the evening, by the recom-
mendation of the same gentleman, la si
gnora Teresa Gozzadini came to visit us.
She is a Florentine ; married at Bologna ;
about thirty years old ; very lively in con-
versation ; wel^-bred, and agreeable : and
has taken us under her protection while
we stay in this place ; which she has be-
gun to make us acquainted with, by car-

VOL. III. I

170

rying us first to see a palace belonging
to the niarchese Ranuzzi, so noble and
well furnished that it might well be ad-
mired, even alter coming from Rome.
The late king of Denmark lodged here
when he was in Italy ; which is recorded
by a painting in the great hall. I observe
in all these states, where the inhabitants
have no princes of their own, that they
are very fond of those of other countries,
— which they are sure can never controul
them.

After seeing this house, we went to
St. Paul's church ; which I believe is a
very line one, for we had just light
enough to perceive that it was painted
and gilded all over : and now, to con-
clude the evening, she introduced us to
the Casino ; which is a very good apart-
ment, lighted up every night for the en-
tertainment of the gentlemen and ladies
of the town, and whoever they please to
bring. Here are card-tables for those

171

that care to play, and waiters ready to
bring chocolate, coffee, ice, &c. : and all
this is at the expense of tAvelve men of
the first quality ; one of whom takes care
of it each month. All the ladies offered
to come and see me ; but I excused my-
self and them from the ti'ouble by th6
shortness of my stay.

Saturday.

That I might have something to tell
you to-day, I endeavoured to inform my-
self last night a little of the history and
government of Bologna. I find that it
was one of the cities Avhich gained their
liberty at the destruction of the Roman
empire ; but that divisions amongst the in-
habitants reduced them at last to seek pro-
tection from the pope, rather than sub-
mit to his power; for they still retain" so
much of their liberty as to make them
very little less than a republic. The
I 2

172

pope, however, is the acknowledged sove-
reign : and sends a legate, on whom cri-
minal causes depend ; and a vice-legate,
wdio has the second place in the state.
But the gonfaloniere has the third, and
presides in all civil causes. This magis-
trate continues in power for two months;
and all the senators (fifty in number)
succeed to it by turns. This office comes
once in seven years to tlie same person
again. The senators are hereditary in
the male line ; and when one is extinct,
the whole body choose three persons,
whom they present to the pope, and he
names which he pleases to fill the vacant
place. In them alone lies all the power
of taxing ; and even in criminal causes
their consent must join with tliat of the
legates. The present legate is cardinal
Aiberoni. One very particular privilege
I cannot omit: which is, that there is no
such thing as any forfeiture to the prince ;

J73

so that treason itself is only punished in
the offender, and his guilt does not extend
to the injury of his family.

The city is about the size of Florence,
and as well peopled. Its situation (being
in the very heart of Italy) makes it a con-
tinual river of foreigners, — if I may use
that term for their certain coming and
short stay. The streets are well paved,
and perfectly clean ; as well as all their
palaces, where fine pictures are in the
greatest abundance, Bologna having pro-
duced many excellent artists in painting,
as also some in sculpture. The open
colonnades in almost every part of the
town look very pretty ; and are very con-
venient for those who walk, for they pass
from street to street alwavs under cover.

At six this evening the signora Gozza-
dini came, and brought with her the con-
tessa Rossi, the conte, and some other
gentlemen. They carried us to see the
palace of the contessa Caprara, with

I O

174

whom I was acquainted at Rome ; where
she has been for near a year, but returns
hither in a few weeks. In the mean time
her best apartment is new furnishing, so
that we could not go into it ; but had the
pleasure of seeing a very good collection
of pictures that was in another quarter ;
to which belonged a gallery, furnished
with green velvet, trimmed with gold.
On the hangings, at equal distances, were
trophies, composed of real arms, that her
uncle, general Caprara, had taken from
the Turks, in the service of the emperor.
The saddles, bridles, and cimeters, stuck
with precious stones set in gold, the
horses' tails, darts, bows, and armour,
made a great and martial appearance,
and are truly an honour to the family.
Under each of these stand glass cases full
of money, plate, &c., acquired in the
same manner. Here lie the collars of all
the orders which any of the family have
worn, and such other presents as they

175

have received from princes. These orna-
ments, so different from any I have met
with, have, contrary to my intention,
drawn me in to describe the inside of an-
other palace ; which, from the frequent
recurrence of such subjects, will, I fear,
become quite tiresome to you.

They took us after this to another
church of fine architecture, but less or-
namented than the former. Our next
amusement was seeing the palace of the
present gonfaloniere (who, during his
office, resides in the Palazzo Publico) "]
where the legate always lives, in anotlier
apartment. And now the hour of the
opera being come, we went to it. The
theatre is tlie prettiest I have seen since
I came abroad. The scenes were fine,
and the poetry that of Metastasio. Here
are some good voices : but the first wo-
man, who I hear is engaged to go to Lon-
don for next winter, will never please, —
unless you are all vasdy altered in the
I 4

176

three years I have been absent. The mu-
sic is reckoned fine, but I own it is too
pathetic for me, who am of the king's
mind, " That diversions ought to make
one merry, and not sad." There is dancing
between the acts, which is pretty, but
which has made it so very late that I have
but just supped, and write this to you by
day-light.

Sunday, 28th.
This afternoon I had a visit from lord
Lincoln, who, I forgot to tell you, yester-
day arrived here from Reggio, and came
to us at the opera last night ; as did sir
Erasmus Phillips the same night avc came.
At the usual hour the signora Gozzadini
came with marchesa Beccatelli, sister to
the divorced marchesa Grimaldi, whom I
mentioned to you from Rome. We went
altogether, first to tlie great church of their
protector, St. Petroni. This is an old
plain Gothic structure without a cupola,

177

and, they say, as large as the Duomo at
Florence. From hence we drove out of
the gate of St. Mammola, where all the
company of the city sit in their coaches ;
and from thence to another outlet, planted
with trees, where the lower sort of people
were walking, drest in their best clothes^
The habit of the women, w^hen they go out,
is particular ; it consists of a black stuff
petticoat which they put over their other
clothes, and a plain black silk scarf that
covers from their waist to the top of their
heads. Our evening concluded at the
opera (called Ezio), which I find one is
no judge of the first time, for the mu-
sic pleased me very much to-night, but
not enough to make me stay so late as I
did yesterday.

Monday, 29th.
This morning at eleven the signora Goz-
zadini carried us to see the Zann)ieri pa-
lace, where there is a great number of
I 5

178

fine pictures. From thence we drove to
the Montagnuola, a round green eminence
within the gates of the city, from which
we looked down on the rich garden of
Lombardy. The avenue to this is from a
very large square (where cattle are sold),
through a grove of trees planted on green
sward for a quarter of a mile in length.
Here the company meet of a summer's
evening ; sit on the benches that encompass
it ; have concerts of music, and sometimes
suppers. Having seen this, we went to
the Palace Tanara, full also of pieces of
painting and drawings by the best masters.
It is said that there is not a citizen's, nor
even a tradesman's, house in Bologna, that
has not some celebrated painter s work in
it : and indeed the collections Mhich I have
seen exceed all others, especially as they
are well preserved, whilst most of those at
Rome, and elsewhere, are either quite
spoiled, or arc spoiling as fast as possible.
In the afternoon the contessa Orsi (whom

179

I had known at Florence), the contessa
Malvasia, and some gentlemen, came with
the signora Gozzadini, and carried us to
see their cathedral of St. Peter, which has
been new beautified by the present pope,
who was their archbishop at the time of
his election to the chair, and still conti-
nues so. After seeing this and some other
churches, we drove out of the gates to take
the air, and then went to the hotsse of the
femous doctress signora LauraBassi, Avhere
all but the signora Gozzadini, and the
English, left us. She is not yet thirty, and
did not begin to study till she* was sixteen,
when, having a tedious illness, and being
attended by a physician who was a man of
great learning, he perceived her genius,
and began to instruct her with that suc-
cess that she is able now to dispute with
any person whatever on the most sublime
points. This she does Mith so much un-
affected modesty, and such strength of
Eea.son, as must please all hearers, of whicli

180

number we were ; for the signora Gozza-
dini, who is herself very clever and pro-
digiously obliging, had got two doctors to
meet us here. With the first, called Bec-
caria, she discoursed in Latin upon light
(for which I was not much the better): but
afterwards doctor Zanotti, Avith an infinite
deal of wit, started a question in Italian,
*' whether we were not in some danger of
losing the benefit of the moon, since the
English had aflfiirmed that the sun attract-
ed all planets to itself?" He desired her
therefore not to compliment the English,
but free hini from the fears which their
assertions justly caused him. I wish I >vas
capable of translating the dialogue ; for I
flatter myself that our tastes are so much
alike that you would be no more tired of
reading, than I was of hearing, it. With
many thanks, and not without reluctance, I
left this house, to conclude the evening at
the Casino.

181

Tuesday, 30th.
This morning the signora Gozzadini, at-
tentive to entertain us, carried us to see
the InstitutOy which is a very capacious fine
house bought and endowed by the late
general Marsigli, for the encouragement
of the arts and sciences. There are
here yearly prizes for those who excel
in drawing, sculpture, fortification, &c.
There is also a fine set of experimental
instruments, and a collection of natural
curiosities, a library, an observatory, and
students of all kinds. Dr. Beccaria, whom
I mentioned yesterday, shewed us the
whole. He is a fellow of the royal soci-
ety at London, and has made some curious
discoveries in natural philosophy. Added
to his being a very agreeable man in con-
versation, he is a perfectly good Christian.
He made me a present of a little bottle of
salts extracted from wheat. We passed

182

the whole morning very pleasingly in this
place, and as soon as dinner Avas over I
went to the signora Gozzadini's to thank
her for all her favours. We returned to-
gether to my lodgings, where the marchesa
Fozzoni, a lady of Bologna, married at
Rimini, came, and carried us to take the
air ; after which we went to the opera.

Wednesday, Slst.

This morning, betimes, the signora
Gozzadini and Sophy, in one post-chaise,
the marchesa Beccatelli and marchesa
Guido Popoli in another, I and Charlotte
in a third, lord Lincoln and my lord in a
fourth, and signor Uguccioni and marchese
Ratta in a fifth, set out to pay our devo-
tions to the Virgin at die Monte di Guar-
dia, or rather to see a fine colonnade of
three miles in length, up a very steep hill
that leads to it, from whence there is a de-
lightful prospect of the distant city and^

183

the country about it. We went afterwards
to a villa belonging to the md,rchese Al-
bergati, wtiich, for the largeness and con-
venience of the house, extent and number
of its avenues, with the richness and order
of the country about it, bounded by di-
stant hills, exceeded any thing I have seen
of the kind. We returned home by a dif-
ferent road ; and in the afternoon I went
with the signora Gozzadini to wait upon
princess Amalia of Modena, M-ho is going
to the baths at Lucca. She is about forty,
has been handsome, and might in her
youth have been married to the present
king of Sardinia, as well as the late duke
of Parma, but that her father Avoiild not
hear of marrying her till her eldest sister
was disposed of; so that both remain un-
married : and this has always preserved
her character. She is extremely civil and
easy, and greatly beloved by all the Bo-
lognese ladies, whom I found her sitting

184

in the midst of, with all the gentlemen
walking about. She saluted us, made our
chairs be drawn near her, and talked a
great deal to us. From hence we went
to the Casino, where we again met the
princess, who came and played at cards
there.

Thursday, June 1.

To-day being that of the Corpus Do-
mini, we went to see the procession, in
which cardinal Alberoni and all the stale
assisted. This over, we went to the Pa-
lazzo Publico, where the gonfaloniere re-
ceived us in person, dressed in his robes
of ceremony, which are black turned back
with gold, and a vast deal of black silk
lace. He is a young man of about hve-
and-twenty, and very well bred. He
shewed us all the apartments, and then
made the excuse of his habit for not
comincr down to tlie door Avith us. After

185

dinner I went to return thanks at the
doors of those ladies that had carried me
about. Afterwards I took the air, and
went to the opera, with the signora Gozza-
dini. Here I took leave of the princess
of Modena, in her box, she intending to
set out early to-morrow morning.

Friday, June 2.
This morning signora Gozzadini and
Dr. Beccaria came to me. The latter
brought me a book of the present and past
state of Bologna, with a medal of the ge-
neral Marsigli, which he would have
me accept. We went afterwards, toge-
ther, to see the schools and the hall of ana-
tomy, which are very fine. Here we passed
some hours in a discourse that gave me a
great esteem for my company, and a desire
to pass more time with them than fate
seems to have allotted me. We went
afterwards to see the porticoes, that were

186

drest up for the procession, which conti-
nues eight days in difterent parts of the
town ; and here all the company meet, sit,
and talk (after the ceremony is over) till
dinner-time. After dinner we all went to
see a very pretty villa, just out of the gate
of the town, where we were surprised with
meeting a great many gentlemen and la-
dies, and finding some fiddles, which had
been appointed on purpose for our enter-
tainment; and here they danced, till the
hour of shutting the gates obliged us to
return into the city, and take the fresh air
on the ]\f ontagnuola ; from whence I went
for half an hour to take leave of the com-
pany at the Casino, and then returned
home; where I was no sooner undressed
than the signora Gozzadini came and sat
with us while we supped. When that was
over, we took a very unwilling leave, being
to part for ever to-morrow morning. But,
early as I am to set out, I cannot go to

187

bed till I have finished this ; with my as-
surance of eternal friendship to you, and
respect to all your family.

Yours,

H. L. Pom FRET.

From Bologna, June 2,
N.S., 1741.

188

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

London, April 13, O. S., 1741.

Though Thursday is my usual day for
writing to your ladyship, I choose to do it
this time by Monday's post, because I lind
I have (according to my usual laudable
custom) put off all my business and cere-
monies to the last moment, and have left
myself only the two remaining days ta
complete them. Amongst others of less im-
portance, I must write a letter to the prin-
cess Amelia, to excuse my not coming to
court before I go away for the summer ;
since I am forced to keep myself huddled
up in hoods and mobs pinned close to my
face, by a return of the pain in it ^^hich
tormented me all last summer. Princess
Louisa is so ill as to be thought in very
great danger. Her fever proves not to

189

be an intermitting one, as it was at first
hoped and believed.

Tlie last week brought me no letter
from your ladyship ; but I hope this will
make amends by bringing me tsvo.

When I am set peacefully down at my
farm I shall often read over your letters,
survey the map of Florence, and trace
your road from thence to Rome. I hope,
if you go near Arpinum, you will visit
Tully's villa there ; for, by the idea Dr.
Middleton has given me of it, I should
prefer it to his Tusculan retreat. This
author is so partial to him that he endea-
vours not to draw a veil over his faults, but
rather to erect them into virtues : and yet
I think one discovers (in spite of his par-
tiality) tiiat Cicero was full of vain-glory,
of a suspicious and unequal temper, quar-
relsome with his friends and fearful of
his enemies, and the most desponding of
all men in adversity. His friend Atticus
seems to me to have been a more amiable

190

man; and, though Dr. Middleton says
tliat his having professed and followed
the Epicurean philosophy had made him
so fond of a learned retirement that he
was less considerable than he might other-
Mise have been, he seems always active to
serve his friends, not only by his interest,
but even by large sums of money, and
ready to leave his books and solitude to go
wherever Tully desired him.

Inoculation is at present more in fashion
than ever: half my acquaintance are shut
up to nurse their children, grand-children,
nephews, or nieces. I could be content,
notwithstanding the fine weather, to stay
in town upon the same account, if I
were happy enough to sec my son desire
it: but that is not the case; and, at his
age, it must either be a voluntary act, or
left undone. His sister * lias miscarried,
but is very well asain, thoui>;h I own it has

^ The lady ot sir IIui>,li Sniithson, bart.

191

given me some concern, for it is an ill
custom to begin with, especially as she
had no fright or accident, nOr has been in
any violent crowd or heat.

The hurry and noise which is occasioned
by the approaching elections, put all those
who are concerned in them into such a
bustle that they almost live upon the
roads.

F. Hartford.

192

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET*.

Richkings, April 21, O. S., 1741.

Though this is dated from my farm, I am
at present very far from being in solitude ;
for, besides Betty and sir Hugh Smithson,
we have with us lord Brooke, Air. Leslie,
a brother of my lord Barrington's, and Mr.
Ramsden. All but the last arc gone to-
day to Windsor to see the instalment. I
nm almost ashamed to own that I am not
of the party, since I never saw that cere-
mony. This would seem almost incredi-
ble, considering how many years I served
the late queen, if IMrs. Herbert were not
in the same case : but I am afraid even
that will not excuse me, since she has not
lived for nine years t02;cther Avilhin-thc

Thi^ letter answers the one in p. 15,

195

sight of Windsor Castle, as I have done.
My continual ill-health, however, must
answer for my stupidity^ since, till that
had destroyed the cheerfulness of my spi-
rits, and the natural curiosity of my tem-
per, I should have been tempted to come
from London on foot, rather than have let
such a sight escape me ; though I seem
now necessitated to see nothing but what
offers itself to me in the most easy and
untumultuous manner : I cannot breathe
in a crowd, and I grow giddy and am
ready to faint even in the drawing-room,
where the press is not usually very great.
Guess then, dear madam, how happy your
letters make me, which present to my
imagination so many beautiful prospects,
and magnificent ceremonies, free from tlie
fatigue with which the seeing of them in
reality must be attended. Nay, I am per-
suaded that (if even that inconvenience
could be removed) they give me more
j:)leasure in your description than I

VOL. III. K

194

should find in being a spectator of them
myself.

You put me out of countenance by the
praises you bestow on the trifles I send you ;
and I ought rather to ask your pardon for
troubling you with them, than expect en-
comiums for what are so far beneath your
taste ; and what are in themselves only the
fruits, or rather weeds, that spring from a
mind uncultivated with more useful know-
ledge ; but if they ever afford you a mo-
ment's entertainment, they will perhaps
appear less impertinent to myself

Princess Louisa, though better than
wlien I wrote last, is not yet out of danger :
her fever, it is said, now remits, which is
all that the physicians have yet been able
to bring it to, though she has had several
blisters (one of which was upon her head),
and plasters to her feet. Princess Caro-
line is inconsolable, and never leaves her.
I pity her from my heart, for I sincerely
believe no popish saint ever fclt,or feigned,

195

so much disrelish for all the pleasures of
life, as she does. You know the natural
indolence of her temper, which (by what I
hear) is sunk into an habitual state of me-
lancholy, and neglect of every thing but
her care for her younger sisters.

F. Hartford,

K S

196

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET*.

Richkjngs, April 29, O. S., 1741.

If any things so trifling as my letters can
give you the least amusement, dear ma-
dam, they shall not fail to attend you
once a week ; in hopes they may find you
at a leisure hour, or in some inn when
you are waiting for your supper : which
my lord Hartford and lord Brooke tell
me seldom (through all Italy) affords any
greater dainties than a mezzo piccieni per
testa, and a piece of veal. You were
but just to me, dear lady Pomfret, in be-
lieving that the news of your coming
home would give me a sincere joy. I
hope you will have a pleasant journey,
and be here before the last Avcek in May;

* This answers the letter in p. 3'2

197

for by that time my lord will be obliged,
by business, to be at Marlborough : but
if you are in London before I leave this
place, I will go thither on purpose to ex-
press (in person) some part of the grati-
tude that I owe you, and which I tiuly
feel.

My black paper and wax will, 1 am
afraid, surprise you a little at first sight ;
but it is occasioned by the death of my
lord Thomond, which happened in Ire-
land. He has left his estate to my lord
Inchiquin's eldest son ; and, in default of
male issue of my lord Inchiquin, to Mr.
Percy Windham : and a legacy of twenty
thousand pounds to lord Clare. Princess
Louisa is relapsed, and thought to be in
very great danger.

My letters from London to-day bring
me an account of an affair which makes
a great deal of noise there. On Satur-
day night, at eleven o'clock, miss Young
left Norfolk-House ; and told her maid
K 3 '

1^8

tliat she was going to sit up with her mo-
ther, who, she heard, was very ill, and just
come to town : but desired her, in the
morning, to carry a letter to Mrs. Payne,
which she had left upon her table. The
letter was carried accordingly; and th^
contents were to this purpose : — That she
desired her to wait upon the prince and
princess with her duty, and to assure
them of her gratitude for all their goodr
ness to her : at the same time to tell
them, that she was excessively miserable
in her present situation : that she had en-
deavoured to get the better of it; but,
finding it impossible, had resolved to re-
tire into the country Avith lord Rochford,
^— the only man in the world who could
make her happy. Why she named him
I cannot comprehend, unless she had said
she was to be married to him ; which I
hear that nobody believes to be the case.
In my opinion, she should have left it to
tiie world to make what conjectures they

199

pleased, since she was not more parti-
cular. Miss Boscawen succeeds her as
maid of honour.

As I am not sure whether our English
newspapers reach you, I will give you
the best account I can of the changes
which have been made at the rising and
conclusion of this parliament, in hopes
they may be some entertainment to you
and my lord Pomfret.

Horace Walpole* is made teller of the
exchequer, in the room of my lord On-
slow; Mr. Winnington, cofferer, in th«
room of Mr. Walpole ; and Mr. Clut-
terbuck, lord of the treasury, in Mr. Win -
nington's place. Ned Thomson is a lord
of the admiralty, in the room of Mr.
Clutterbuck ; sir William Corbet, a com-
missioner of the revenue in Ireland, in
the room of Mr. Thomson ; and lord

* Brother to sir Robert, and created afterwards
lord Walpole»

k4

200

Dupplin, a commissioner of the revenue
in Ireland, in the room of Mr. Riggs,
who is a commissioner of excise in Scot-
land. Lord Glenorchy is a lord of the ad-
miralty, in the room of sir Thomas Lit-
tleton, who has a pension: Mr. Pelham
(who was secretary of the embassy in
France) is a conmiissioner of trade, in
tiie room of his father : Mr. Keene is
likewise a commissioner of trade, but I
do not hear in whose room : Mr. Legge is
secretary to the treasury, in the room of
Mr. Stephen Fox ; Horace Townshend,
secretary to sir Robert Walpole, in the
room of Mr. Legge ; and Mr. Ponsonby,
brother to lord Duncannon, Irish secre-
tary. Sir Robert Browne is paymaster to
the board of works, in the room of Mr.
Harris, who married lady Waipole's mo-
ther, and is made treasurer of the house-
hold. Lord Ancram has a company of
the guards ; and a brother of lord Towns-
hend's, another. Mr. Conway is made a

201

captain-lieutenant in the guards. The
chancellor, lord Walpole, and lord Har-
rington, are to be made earls ; and Mr.
Edgcombe, Mr. Howe, Mr. Fox, and Mr.
Bromley, are to be barons.

This is all the news I can pick out at
present ; — a poor return for your delight-
ful journal, Avhich we can never enough
admire. I was amazed (as well as you)
when the signor Cenci, in his red frock
and short white apron, offered you his
hand at the side of the coach. Whether
the agnus-deis have all the virtues ascrib-
ed to them or not, they Avill be sure of
one merit Avith me, — as they will be a
fresh instance of your goodness.

All our company are gone, except ]\Ir.
Ramsden, whose time of life (about for-
ty), and a train of misfortunes in his
youth, have taught to relish the peaceful
amusements of a retired life better than
the hurry of London. We have been re-
joiced to-day with some gentle showers,
K 5

which were extremely wanted, for, though
our park is in full verdure, there is hard-
ly any grass in the hilly parts of the coun-
try, which keeps hay at an excessive
price.

F. Hartforc.

303

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD *.

Saturday, 3d.
We set out from Bologna at five in the
morning, accompanied by signor Uguc-
cioni, through much the same kind of
country which I described in coming to
it. After a post or two it became more
open, with pasturage and willows; then
enclosed, with corn and vines ; and every
where inhabited. Having passed the
river, we arrived at the city of Ferrara.
This was once the capital of a duchy;
till the pope thought fit to deny the legi-
timacy of one of the sovereigns, and seize
it as a fief of the church : under which
government it has remained ever since

* This letter was written after the receipt of tlie
throe las.t.

204

the year 1598. It is almost depopulated,
having neither a court nor trade; but the
form is still noble. Our inn is over
against the palace. This is a great old
castle : it is built of brick, and stands in
water ; Avhich I suppose to be a moat, the
ancient defence of this sort of build-
ings. As I looked on those noAv deserted
apartments, I reflected that Ariosto had
often attended there in vain expectation
of the recompense which his genius me-
rited for having immortalised his thank-
less patron. Had he been a belter cour-
tier, though a worse poet, he might have
Jived ha})pi]y, and his memory' have died
with him. We fmd the inn so bad that
Ave arc determined to set out to-morro\t^
inorninfT, contrary to what I once desiifn-
cd, of resting a day to see the town, In'
the assistance of some ladies of my ac-
quaintance that live here. Signor Uguc-
cioni is gone to make them my excuses
and conipitmcnts. I only stay to write

205

this, before I shall try if I can find a bet-
ter bed than I have done a supper at
Ferrara.

Sunday, 4th.

At five this morning we set out again.
We passed all the way through admirable
roads, planted, for the most part, with
trees. The villages are thick, and very
pretty. When we arrived at the Po, it
put me in mind of the Thames a little
above London. Having passed this river,
we went on through the same agreeable
country, till we came to the canal Bianco,
which we passed also, and afterwards the
canal Nero ; the last over a bridge, to-
wards the end of our journey. We went
along the side of the Brenta, where there
are many villas of noble Venetians, that
look like palaces. Much of our view,
however, was hindered by a violent storm
of thunder, lightning, and rain, that
obliged us to shut the chaise quite close.

206

The weather afterwards cleared up, and
we entered the seat of this famous uni-
versity by day-light. Within the walls
there are meadows and corn fields ; and
the first houses we observed were round a
large green. This we quitted soon for
very narrow, ill -paved streets ; and hav-
ing passed many of them, we found our
inn airy and clean, and have dined so
well that I should not be sorry to stay a
day or two in it, if I had any acquaint-
ance here.. Adieu, dear madam ! from
Padua.

Monday, 5 th.

After dining very well, we set out in a
large boat, not unlike, but much hand-
somer, than that we came in along tiie
Saone to Lyons. This brought us down
the Brenta in about seven hours. On
each side of this river the country is very
fine, and contains many palaces belong-
ing to noble Venetians (used as villas),

207

which have gardens down to the water.
Amongst these beautiful buildings (for
architecture is here in its perfection) the
present doge Pisano has erected a struc-
ture worthy of the greatest king on earth.
Having arrived at the land's end, we
could no more be drawn by horses ; but,
by the help of two lesser boats, were tow-
ed over the salt water, strewed with bits
of land, into the great entrance of Ve-
nice. It was as dark as it can be at this
time of the year without bad weather,
when we finished our little voyage ; so
tliat I could only distinguish that we were
encompassed with houses in the midst of
the sea. Being come to that destined for
our residence, I found a very large hand-
some apartment, extremely well furnish-
ed. Whilst supper was getting ready, I
received a packet from Mr. Smith. I
read with great pleasure your three agree-
able letters; and thank your ladyship
very much for all your news, which was

208

perfectly such to me ; but principally for
your obliging desire of my return in time
enough to see you before you go to Marl-
borough, -where I wish you all success :
but, by the date of this, you will find that
it will be impossible for me to enjoy that
happiness till after you come back. In
the mean time I must do justice to our
eating here, which is so clean, so plenti-
ful, and so good, that I should have been
very glad if you could have made our
number at the table a complete half-
dozen.

Tursday, 6th.

Having sent my two letters, that I
brought from the princess Borghese and
the abate Niccolini, as directed, the first
to the procuratcssa Foscarini and the
other to the })rocuratore Morosini, I be-
gan to look about and consider my situ-
ation. This is on tlie great canal, or, if
you please, great street, for almost all in-

^09

this city are canals. It was built, as you
know, by those Avho escaped from the
ruins of Aquileia and other adjacent
cities, who united (by their industry and
the treasures they could save) these little
islands of the Lagunes into the magnifi-
cent city of Venice ; so called from the
Veneti, a people that first inhabited them,
though only in the quality of fishermen.
The noble buildings, the vast number of
gondolas and other boats in continual
motion, with the present fine weather,
make me unwilling to leave the window
that affords so fine a prospect, and ahvays
fresh air.

The English here are lord Lincoln
(who arrived the night before us, having
set out in the morning before us from
Bologna), lord Elcho, Mr. Dashwood,
and Mr. Naylor; besides Mr. Whitehead
and Mr. Shute, whom Ave left at Florence.
In the afternoon I had a visit from them
all, and from the procuratessa Foscarini,

^10

Avho invited us to her assembly to-night;
where I accordingly went, and found her
in her summer apartment. The assem-
blies here begin at ten, and end at one :
at which hour I now bid you good night.

Wednesday, 7tli.

This morning I had a visit from the-
procuratore Foscarini ; and soon after-
wards came, as we appointed last night,
signor Gio. Dolfino, his cousin (a noble
Venetian, who has travelled all the world
over), to carry us to some shops, in order
to buy summer clothes. Having gone
some time upon the water, we landed,
and walked through several little, narrow
streets, well paved, and lined with shops
of all kinds on each side of the way. It
is surprising to see such plenty and vari-
ety of all the products of art and nature,
in the utmost perfection, sold in the mid-
dle of the sea. After we had bought
what we wanted, we walked on to look at;

211

he piazza of St. Mark ; which is the largest
open space of ground the Venetians have,
and is the finest I ever saw. It is formed
of two oblongs joined, and is adorned
with very fine buildings, and shops under
colonnades : but, as it grew towards din-
ner time, I was obliged to hasten home.
In the evening I went to take the air in
my gondola, which is the most conve-
nient and agreeable conveyance imagin-
able. It is a long narrow boat, with a
covered seat in the middle, which is al-
ways black ; but strangers may have what
colour they please, as well as glasses at
the sides, and liveries for their gondoliers,
Avho are two men that stand and row, one
before and the other behind : this they
do so dexterously, that, though the ca-
nals, both great and small, are filled with
them perpetually, not the least accident
ever happens in any weather or time of
night ; and the motion is much easier
than that of our wherries on the Thames.

!i212

At ten I went to the Foscaiini's a«seni>
bly again, to take leave of her. She ex-
pressed a great deal of concern at our
coming to Venice at a time when she was
obliged to leave it ; and when, by the
absence of all the con)pany at their ville-
giature, we could not be so well enter-
tained as she desired we should.

Thursday, 8th.

This afternoon the senator Dolfino
came again, to serve, instead of his
absent cousin, now gone to Padua. The
English being here by appointment, we
went all together to see the arsenal, where
the arms are kept, and the ships are built.
This is an enclosure, Avith one entrance
by land, and one by w^ater : by the latter,
when the vessels are finished, they are
launched. There are here continually
three thousand men kept at work ; twen-
ty-six galleys, two galleyales, and seven
men-of-war, in constant readiness. Of

215

the men-of-war, three are of eighty gun*,
two of seventy, and two of sixty. There
are also three thousand cannons (half of
brass, and the other half of iron) ; and
all other stores in proportion. There
are arms for twelve thousand men in
one apartment only, which is under the
great hall of arms, where, when any great
prince comes, they always give him an
entertainment. But what was really very
curious to see, was the Bucentoro, in
which the doge and senate go out every
year on Ascension-Day to wed the sea.
This is a galley of a hundred feet in
length, divided into two galleries, with a
seat at the upper end for the doge, and
benches down the sides for the senate ;
with a covering over head, all made of
wood, carved inside and outside in the
richest ornaments, Avith bas-relicvos, alto-
relievos, and whole figures, all gilt. In tl^
hollow of the vessel are seated the row-
ers ; four men to each oar, and forty-two

214

oars on each side. This machine is only
made use of upon this occasion, and lasts
a hundred years. The present one is
about six years old, and cost ten thousand
pounds.

When M^e had sufficiently viewed the
arsenal, we got again into our gondola^
and went to a little island where the con-
vent of Benedictine monks stands, dedi-
cated to St. George. It was built by
Palladio, and is extremely fine. From
hence we went to a monastery, where the
sister and niece of our conductor are
nuns. The dress of the nuns here is more
after the world than in any monastery I
have seen, being only a close, plain, black
gown and a white petticoat, and a white
handkerchief about their necks ; their arms
bare, with short ruffles. They see more
company than those in other parts of
Italy, and consequently know better how
to entertain them.

215

Friday, 9th.
This afternoon signor Dolfino came,
and brought with him another gentleman.
They conducted us to St. Peter's church,
where a catafalco was erected for the
obsequies of the deceased patriarch. The
fabric was black, with its ornaments
white, in a better taste than that for the
emperor at Florence. We were after-
wards carried to a window of the patri-
arch's house, where Ave saw the proces-
sion pass by (after the funeral oration
was ended), at which the doge and his
fellow-officers attended ; and the figure
of the dead in wax, dressed in his ponti-
fical habit, was borne along on men's
shoulders. The mournino; of his rela-
tions was particular ; each making the
figui'e of a black pyramid — a little slit
towards the top giving them room to
breathe. One of these went on the left
hand of the doge, who leaned with the
other on his secretary, preceded by the

216

great-chancellor. The others proceeded
with each an officer of state on his rijiht
hand.

From hence we went to anotl>er con-
vent, where a nun was lately professed.
The dress of the nuns here is all white, witli
a black silk snail-string about their necks.
Each has a garden and an apartment to
herself. They have frequent dancings,
and sometimes act operas, — but admit no
profane auditors. When I came home I
found your agreeable letter of the 6tli of
May ; for which I have hardly time to
thank your ladyship, fearing to be too
late for the post.

Faithfully yours,

H. L. Pom FRET.

Venice, June Q,
N.S,, 1741.

air

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET*

Ilichkings, May 6, O. S,, 1741.

In our rambling among the neighbouring
fields I passed a farm-house, which struck
me by its venerable appearance, having
a large moat round it, and a rookery of
high trees close to it, in the middle of
some delightful meadows. As I am not
fond of making acquaintance (even in
that rank of life), I contented myself with
surveying only the outside of it, and came
home without further information : but
my son and Mr. Ramsden went, two
nights ago, to see if they could discover
\vhether it ever had been other than a
farm-house. The people told them it
was formerly called Parlem-Park ; and
that there was a tradition that queen
Elizabeth was nursed there. They can-

VOL. III. L

£18

not tell, however, who it belonged to be-
fore it came into the family of my lord
Uxbridge, who is the present landlord.
They shewed them an old glass window,
in which was painted a coat-of-arms with
eight quarterings. The first of these is
of the Stanley family, and round it is a
yellow ribbon, with a Latin motto, the
English of which, my son tells me, is,— *
" Edward Stanley, knight. — Lord, reward
me not according to my works." The
people conducted them next into (what
they make) their cellar. This is an
arched place, down three or four steps,
with several large iron rings fastened to
the top of it. They also shewed them
where a statue stood close by ; but could
not tell whether it had belonged to a con-
vent or mansion-house.

My time is a good deal taken up 'by
several alterations. My lord has made
one this winter, which 1 think very pretty,
by turning a gravel-pit into a kind of

«I9

dry basin, where he proposes to set his
orange trees in summer. The banks that
rise from it are planted thick with flower-
ing shrubs and some evergreens. There
are terrace walks on two sides of it : one,
a short gravel one; the other, a pretty
tong grass one, fenced from the lane by a
very fine hawthorn hedge, Avhich lias long
been growing in that place, and is noAV in
flower. Just across this little gravely
lane, which leads to the next village, is a
thorny wood, the largest on this side the
country. This also belongs to my lord
Uxbridge : but I enjoy its music ; for, as
I walk in an evening, it affords me a
complete concert, — for, besides black-
birds, thrushes, and nightingales (of
which there is an astonishing number),
there are four wood-pigeons, which,
building there, serve as a kind of natural
thorousjh-bass. Within doors we amuse
ourselves (at the hours we are together)
in gihling picture frames, and other small
L 2 .

220

things : — this is so much in fashion witii
us at present, that I believe, if our pa-
tience and pockets would hold out, we
should gild all the cornices, tables, chairs,
and stools about the house.

I hear that princess Louisa continues
on the mending hand, though she is hard-
ly yet out of danger. I will trouble your
ladyship no longer than while I repeat
the assurance of my being to you and
your family

A most obedient

and faithful humble servant

F. Hartford.

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Saturday, 10th.
This afternoon we had a visit from Mr.
Walpole, who arrived yesterday from
Ileggio ; and soon after the signoras Ei-
anca Mocenigo and Elena Contarini,
nieces of the procuratessa Foscarini, came
also to visit us ; and conducted us first to
the famous Magazine of Glass, where we
saw houses, gardens, pots full of flowers,
and a whole fortified town, in that mate-
lial, prepared for dessert services. From
thence they carried us to see the nuns of
the Virgin; who are each dressed in white,
with a black ribbon hanging as the blue
one did on queen Anne : and this was
the distinction of their being professed.
Their style of conversation, and manner

0OQ

of entertaining with ice, chocolate, &,c>,
shew them rather shut from the world
than detesting it.

Sunday, lltb.

This morning one of the gentlemen that
accompanied our two new ladies yester-
H^ay, came to acquaint us that they were
both set out this morning for Padua, upon
hearing that their only brother was ill of
ihe small-pox in that city. The same
person, with the senator Dolfino, carried
us to the doge's palace, where the great
council sat this morning, in order to elect
a senator, one of the forty, and some
other officers. To this ceremony no la-
dies except strangers are admitted. It is^
performed in a very large oblong room,
capable of holding at least a thousand
people. The great council is composed
of all that have the honour of being noble
Venetians, whether strangers or natives;

S23

and this honour descends to every male
of the family who has taken care to re-
gister his name in what is called the
Golden-Book ; and at live-and-tAventy
(and not before) these become members of
this council. All have a right to come ;
but, unless there are three hundred, they
cannot act. The manner of election is
this : — In a place apart, at the upper end,
sit the doge, the counsellors, &c., dressed
in crimson robes. The doge is distin-
guished by a particular cap, bound with
gold : the other nobles are in black, and
sit on benches all down the room. A
number of balls, equal to the number of
electors, are put into a vessel. Amongst
these are thirty-six golden balls, and
those who draw them retire from the
council ; and when retired, they are di-
vided into four different chambers, nine
in each, and each nine sends a name that
they judge proper to be the new senator;
l4

254

&0 that the great council receives from
them (who are deprived of voting) four
candidates, for which they ballot one by
one, and he who has most votes is the
senator. In these elections the doge bal-
lots with the others, and has only a single
vote.

Our evenings amusement was in the
Church of the Incurables, where poor or-
phans are taken in and bred up. They
perform music in their church every holi-
day and every vigil. There are here
jsome of the finest voices in the world.
The performers are all women.

We afterwards took the air on the
water, and then came home to receive
the visits of our countrymen. Lord El-
cho and Mr. Dashwood took leave of us,
t>eing to set out to-morrow morning.

225

Monday, 12th.
This morning we went to the famous
church of St. Mark, which is, of its kind,
certainly the greatest curiosity in the
world, being the oldest Gothic structure
now existing, with all the ornaments of
the time it was first built and finished still
remaining, without addition or alteration.
I cannot say so much for its beauty as I
can for its richness, being within and
without covered with the old Mosaic, re-
presenting (on a gold ground) the histo-
ries of the Old and New Testament,
which are awkwardly drawn, and worse
coloured. The lower part of the walls
and the floor are of all sorts of marble
inlaid ; but the whole is very dark and
disa2;reeable.

From hence we went to see the pain-
tress Rosalba, who is now old, but cer-
tainly the best (if not the only) artist in
her way. This her excellence does not,
however, make her the least impertinent,
1. 5

226

her behaviour being as good as her
work.

As it was not yet dinner-time, we went
to see the house that belonged to the
doge s famil}'. It is reckoned the best in
Venice ; and has two square courts and
many rooms : but all the best furniture is
gone with its master to the public palace.
Here we mounted a vast height to a tur-
ret; from whence the city, and its de-
fence and ornament, the sea, with the
adjacent isles, look very pretty.

After dinner we went to see some
churches, which are built in a very fine
taste here : but what alloyed the pleasure
of to-day, was a touch of the gout that
has confined my lord at home.

Tuesday, 13th,

My lord was well enough to get up and
go abroad this morning : and after dinner
we had a visit from an old noble Vene-
tian, called Alexander Marcello. He

227

was presented to us by signer Dolfino at
the great council. He talks English, and
almost all modern languages; is a vir-
tuoso in the arts and sciences ; and
brought a little harpsichord with him,
upon which he played very finely.

This day being consecrated to St. An-
thony, the doge and senators, in their
robes, passed in procession, over a very
long bridge made of boats, to one of
their churches : which ceremony we came
too late to see, as well as the function in
the church ; but going there gave me the
opportunity of seeing two of the gondolas
of the ambassadors that are used when they
attend the doge, which are extremely fine
and beautiful. The wood-work is composed
of figures and devices, carved and gilt all
over, with a canopy and cushions of green
and gold silk, and another with crimson
velvet. These Mere the only two I saw;
for the French ambassador was sick, and
tlie rest either had not made their entry.

228

or were out of town. Each ambassador
has three of these, though they generally
make use of black ones. We went from
this sight (or rather followed it) to the
Church of the Incurables, where the music
was finer than the day before : and, if I
lived at Venice, I think it would be my
chief amusement to frequent this place
often.

We found all the English at home on
our return, and they staid the evening
M'ith us.

Wednesday, 14th.

When we had dined, we went in our
gondola to Murano, another little city in
the Lagunes. Here they make looking-
glass; and here (what we call in Eng-
land) Milan-stone is made, as well as the
false lapis-lazuli, with the broken glass,
filings of brass, &c., thrown into a fur-
nace.

At our return home mv lord received

229

a letter, to acquaint him with the death
of poor Mrs. Conyers, which immediately
made his gout return upon him, and he
is gone to bed. This melancholy news is
the more surprising, as last post we re-
ceived an account that the doctors had
more hopes than ever :■ — but, not to dwell
on a subject that gives us concern, and
must tire you, I will bid you good night.

Thursday, 15th. -^
This morning I found my lord some-
thing better : and as it was a day of
masking, and the only one for the time
we are to be in Venice, he ordered me to
go with my daughters to the doge's pa-
lace, where he w^s to dine in public;
which he does four times a year. On
this day it is done to entertain the Qua-
ranti, which were the original senate;
but afterwards, joining one hundred and
twenty other senators to these, with the
counsellors and other officers, they made

230

up the senate t^vo hundred and twenty.
The quaranti, however, still retain the
power of being judges in life and pro-
perty. The other three days that the
prince gives public banquets, are St. Ste-
phen's, St. Mark's, and the Ascension :
one of them to the chancellors and state
oflficers ; one to the elder senators ; and
one ^o the younger. The masking at
Venice admits of no variety, unless any
body has a mind to draw all the mob
about him ; for every one is dressed in
a cloak, a white mask, and a black hat :
and in this dress, attended by signor
Uguccioni, and far from gay, we went to
the doge's palace. The front, to the great
canal, is a piece of very old Gothic archi-
tecture, to me not unpleasing. There is
a side-front, to the lesser canal, made
modern, all of marble, and vastly rich ;
as is also the square court; from whence
we ascended a flight of stairs to the
prince's apartment, vQj^y large, very old,

and every where adorned with the paint-
ings of the three great Venetian masters,
Paul Veronese, Titian, and Tintoret,
The room where they were to dine had a
table at the upper end for the doge, am-
bassadors, &c., and side-tables for the
others. All were set out with iEsop's
Fables in coloured sugars — the houses,
trees, and figures necessary to express
them being a foot or two in height : but
when the company that was to eat enter-
ed, these were taken away to make room
for more nourishing food. The doge was
dressed in a crimson-and-gold stuff robe,
with an odd-shaped hat of the same. He
is near fourscore, but looks very well for
that age ; and I believe has been hand-
some. In his younger years he was am-
bassador to England and to France ; and
made a very considerable figure in the
state : but at present he is employed in
attending councils, processions, and feasts,
— which must be a vast fatigue to one of

232

his age ; and surely it must be very tire-
some to any man of sense to be in a situation
that a puppet, stuffed with straw, couldfill
as well as himself! — But such is the infa-
tuation of appearance, that the honour of
arriving to the dogeship is the eager pur-
suit of almost every noble family in Ve-
nice. Amongst the guests we saw our
friend Marcello, who loaded us with the
dry sweetmeats that were allotted to his
share ; but, all being seated, the masks
were desired to withdraw^,— which I did
with more satisfaction than I entered.

In the evening, dressed as before, we
went, with lord Lincoln, Mr. Naylor, and
signor Uguccioni, to the place of St.
Mark, to see the masks, for all the town
were assembled there, walking up and
down ; and chairs \a ere set on each side
for those that pleased to make use of
them, which I soon grew tired enough to
do ; and we all six took our places, and
became spectators of the promenade. A

233

mask came and joined our company,
which we soon discovered to be signor
Francesco Suares, son to the lady who
had favoured us with her protection at
Florence, and who Avas come from that
city with Mr. Walpole. We had not sat
long before that gentleman passed by, out
of mask; and being called by signor
Francesco, who had something to say to
him, we told him who we were, and he
sat down with us. Mr, Naylor said
that he had received a letter from Rome,
with an extraordinary piece of news.
Mr. Walpole added, " and I have re-
ceived one from Florence with something
more extraordinary, I dare say." " Mine,"
says Mr. Naylor, " is, that the great gu-
glio, in the midst of the piazza of St. Pe-
ter s church, is thrown down by an earth-
quake:" " And mine," says Mr. Walpole,
" will not be so soon told ; and I fear I
shall tire your patience in telling it." We

234

assured him that would not be the case,
and so he began his story.

" In one of the provinces of France, a
lady of great quality, who was big with
child, going to make a visit at some miles'
distance, as she passed through a wood,
was taken in labour, and with difficulty
got to a little miserable cottage before she
was brought to bed of a son, who, whe-
ther by the fright of his mother, or any
other cause, was so ill that his death was
expected every moment. As there was
no holy-water to be had in this place,
they made use of some rose-water, which
the lady happened to have with her, in>
stead of it, and in this manner he was
baptized : but, after some hours, both the
mother and child grew better, and both
lived to return safe home. When the son
attained a proper age, he was sent into
another part of France to study. Tliis
he did with such success that his father

235

believed he might, by liis merit, and the
friends and interest that his family had,
make a considerable figure in the church ;'
and having written to acquaint his son of
his intention, at the same time ordered
him to come home. This letter was very
unwelcome to the youth, who had a very
different engagement upon his hands,
being in love with a young lady in that
neighbourhood ; and, resolving not to
lose her, before he took his journey was
privately married. When he came home
he found his father so obstinately resolved
on his taking orders, that, fearing to dis-
obey, he received the first, which is of no
great consequence : but soon, to punish
his deceit, he had a letter of the death of
his beloved wife ; on which he completed
his orders, and became a priest in good
earnest. At the same time the young
lady received a letter also, that her hus-
band was dead ; which she doubting the
truth of, sent privately to inquire if the

236

son of such a gentleman was dead : and,
from an intimate friend (who knew no-
thing of her secret) received for answer
that he was ; — for at the same time one
of his brothers actually died. After some
time, the supposed widow married ; and,
after a little more, became again a widow;
in Avhich state she lived, when chance, or
the duties of his order, brought her first
husband to that country once more.
Upon hearing that one of his name was
arrived, she had a curiosity to see and
speak with him, and sent to desire that
favour. He came, and did not know
her : but she fainted at the siglit of him :
and, being recovered, after some dis-
course they mutually acknowledged each
other, — and he immediately quitted his
last vow to maintain his first ; and they
lived together till the death of his father,
having in tliat time several children. He
then sent to claim his inheritance ; but
his brothers disputed it with him, alleging

237

that he was not a Christian — having been
baptized with rose-water only — and there-
fore could not inherit. This cause (after
some time) was referred to Rome, where
the hero of my romance went to solicit its
being heard. What his success was, I do not
know ; but, on returning home by the way
of Florence, he was seized, by virtue of
cardinal Tencin's order, and is now in the
fortress there."

' Were this a fiction, it would be liable
to much criticism ; but, as it is a literal
truth, I can only say it is wonderful.

Friday, l6th.

Our old Venetian came again to-day,
and would take us to see the finest garden
they have in Venice : but first we went
to the convent where his daughter is pro-
fessed. Most of the convents in Venice
are easy enough, and are understood to
be only a retreat for young women of
condition who cannot marry equal to

23S

their birth ; and the liberty allowed would
be very reasonable, if it were not some-
times stretched too far— by winking at
their going out in the masking time,—
which has drawn on, now and then, worse
consequences.— But, leaving these unfor-
tunate affairs to people who take more
pleasure in repeating them than I do, I
shall only add to thi^ day, that the best
garden in Venice is about half as bio- as
mine was at Florence ; has a charming
view on the salt-water ; and is full of
flowers and fine plants.

Saturday, l/tli.

The first thing I heard this morning
was, that the doge died suddenly, just
after his son had set out for the country.
Mr. Smith, the English banker (who
dined with us), and our friend MarccUo,
in the afternoon, solicited us to stay and
xsee the coronation of a new doge, whicli
they all say is full of diversions and mag-

239

nificence: but our present situation makes
us unfit for either.

Mr. Walpole, Mr. Whitehead, and Mn
Shute, came to take leave of us, for they
remain at Venice. Lord Lincoln took
leave, as setting out to-night for Padua ;
and signor Uguccioni is just embarking
for Florence : we intend to do the same
to-morrow morning for Padua, in order
to pursue our journey to England with as
few delays as possible. I have, therefore,
■no more to say from Venice, but to beg
pardon for this tedious scrawl ; and to
assure you, that I am, in every change of -»
time and place,

Unchangeably yours,

H. L. Pom FRIT,

JuTie, N.S., 1711.

240

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Sunday, ISth.
After having sealed and sent my letter
last night to Mr. Smith, to be conveyed to
England, it was no small disappointment,
and a very great concern to me, instead of
the hoped-for letter from your ladyship,
to receive the account of poor lord Au-
brey Beauclerk's death. This (besides the
sorrow every one must certainly feel for
the loss of a person of merit to whom
they have obligations) leaves my son
without a protector, in an unwholesome
climate, exposed to a thousand dangers
besides the common ones of his profession,
and perhaps to necessities, it being im-
possible to remit or know where to remit
money to him in his present situation ; but
God knows whether he is alive to Mant it !

241

for I hear the ship he was in has suffered
very much and lost many men. I own I
am not patriot enough to rejoice at a vic-
tory that may have cost me so dear:
though, could I hear that my child was
safe, nobody would be better pleased with
it than myself Pardon me, dear madam,
that I trouble you with my thoughts upon
this occasion : it is natural to take that
liberty with a friend ; and, as you are as
much a tender mother as you are a lover
of your country, you will forgive my weak-
ness on this head.

This morning, about ten o'clock, we en-
tered our bargello in order to leave Ve-
nice; which, I must say, when one is out of
it, is one of the finest places imaginable
to look back upon from the midst of the
salt-water. It is pleasing to see there a
town rich with the best of architecture
that has been in fashion from its first foun-
dation (now a thousand years) ; for, being

VOL, III. M

242

obliged to make strong foundations, tlic
houses last for ever ; and there are almost
as many palaces still standing, and in use,
of the Gothic, as there are of modern
building. As our house stood on the
great canal, ^\e passed under the bridge of
the Rialto to pursue our voyage. This is
composed of one vast arch, over which
are four-and-twenty houses with shops, a
street between them, and one on each of
the other sides of the houses. JBut I need
not endeavour at a description of this
bridge, which no doubt you have seen re-
presented in some of the painted views,
that many people have taken to England.
As we went down the Brenta we stof)-
ped to see the late doge's palace, which
is yet unhnished. The design is grcat
and tlie garden is large. Just as it was
dark Ave landed, and were obUged to walk
a mile and a half to our inn, through very
ill-paved stre<;ts, and having nothing to

243

prevent us from tumbling down the cellar
windows, but flashes of lightning, that ne-
ver left us half a minute in the dark ; and
we were no sooner got up stairs, but it
thundered and rained most violently.
Here we found my lord Lincoln and Mr.
Naylor, who supped with us. Farewel
from Padua !

Monday, Ipth.

Tliis morning I received a message
from the procuratessa Foscarini, by one
of the noble Venetians whom we saw at
her assembly when at Venice ; and soon
after her niece Bianca IMocenigo, with
three gentlemen, came, and offered to
carry us to see the town, the meeting of
the Academy of Sciences that was to be
holden to-night, and the public ball after-
wards, for which I iiad promised them to be
at Padua. I had, however, now very good
reasons to excuse my accepting their offer,
thoii";h we liave been obli<icd to stay here
M 2

244

all day, some things wanting to be ad-
justed in our travelling equipage.

Tuesday, 20th,

Betwixt eight and nine this morning wc
took our leave of lord Lincoln and Mr,
Naylor, and began our journey post
through an open and well-cultivated coun-
try Avhich brought us to Vicenza, a small
but very pretty city, that has many line
buildings in it. Whilst the horses Avere
changing, we went to see the theatre
built by Palladio of wood and stucco.
This is the most delightful structure of
the kind I ever saw. At present it is
made no use of, but for public balls ;
and some rooms belonging to it are used
as a Casino for the ladies and gentlemen
of the place. One very large room, at the
entrance, serves for academical exercises ;
and here we saw some young gentlemen
fencing. One, that was a s[)ectator as well
as ourselves, with a great deal of good-

245

breeding, offered to send for his coath, if
we cared to see any other part of the
town ; and upon our excusing ourselves,
he and the others walked with us to the inn,
and saw us into our chaises. I mention
this particular only to do justice to the
politeness of the Italians, which having
proved for two years together in so many
different places, I must always acknow-
ledge. The burning heat of tlie sun (for
it shone in full force to-day) entirely de-
stroyed the pleasure of the delightful mea-
dows, corn-fields, and vineyards, with the
gentlemen's seats, which adorned each
side of our way. But Avhen the sun de-
clined, and we entered Verona, passing
the bridge that is built over the river
Adige (which runs through the city), the
view of that part of the town, where the
fortress i^ raised above the rest on a green
mount, appeared more noble and beauti-
ful than I can find words to describe.
Our inn is large; and, considering that
M 3

246

we are in Italy, we have supped well at
Verona.

Wednesday, 21bt.

My lord having sent his conipUments to
general Nugent, who is lately made go-
vernor of the Veronese for three years, he
came and made us a visit, promising to
return in the afternoon with coaches, and
carry us to see the city, which is very
large and Avell built, with many fine
houses and handsome clean streets. He
accordingly came, and first shewed us the
amphitheatre, the most perfect now sub-
sisting, but far inferior, both in si^e and
architecture, to that of Titus at Rome.
We went next to the modern theatre^
where the inhabitants have their operas.
This is very handsome, and holds a vast
jnany people very conveniently. There
are several rooms belonging to it for play-
ing at cards and dancing; and a noble
portico before it, from which they are

247

enclosing a square piece of ground with a
smaller, but very beautiful, colonnade, in
the back wall of which are begun to be
placed all their antique bas-relievos, in-
scriptions, &c., of which there is a great
number here. But what struck my fancy
extremely was the fair-ground; which is a
square enclosure, with walks and cross-
walksof grass, and shopsof all sorts oneach
hand. A public hall is erected at the upper
end, in which are adjudged the differences
that arise amongst the traders. This place is
locked up every night at a certain hour,
and each shop has a room over it for some-
body to lie in and take care of the goods.
Of four little squares in the angles, two
have wells, the distance being great from
the main part of the city, standing in the
Campus Martins, one of the finest greens
I ever saAv, and where the brigadier told
us he had seen twelve thousand men
drawn out. The fair is held twice a-year,
in ISIay and in October, and for fifteen
fii 4

248

days each time, when it fills the town with
company from all parts ; and the mer-
chants who bring goods pay for that
time but half duty.

Thursday, 22(1.

Early this morning we left Verona, and
J)y the banks of the Adige (which we
crossed in the first post) arrived at the
last fortress of the Venetians on that side
of their territories, called the Chiusa, and
very justly, for it is built up the side of a
vast rock, that is parted from another only
by the river. Here, for a mile, the road
is so bad, that the horses are obliged to be
taken off, and the chaises pulled along by
men. Having walked up the hill, we got
into them again, at the end of this rocky
way, by which we entered the Alps ; and,
through the fine plain that lies at the bot-
tom of them (watered by the Adige,
which we often left and returned to
again) on very safe roads, adorned Avith

249

vineyards, villages, woods, &c., we passed
out of Italy into the Tyrol, and about ten
at night arrived at Trent.

Friday, 23d.

As we were obliged to stay this morning
to have our chaises put upon new car-
riages with four wheels, which is the way
of travelling post in Germany, I took this
this time to go and see the church where
the famous general council was held, and
in Avhich there is now a picture of it. But
what was much more worth going for, I
heard there the finest organ in the world.
It has the sound, in the utmost perfection,
of every musical instrument in being, which
the master played to us, both single and
in concert, with a harmony very different
from what once reigned in that place. We
could not get our chaises in order till
seven in the evening ; and the first post
made us sensible, by the roughness of the
way, that we had changed our carriages

250

for some more uneasy. From this place,
called St. Michael (the last in which the
Italian language is commonly spoken), we
had admirable roads, in a beautiful vale,
inhabited, manured, and planted, that runs
with the Adige, in turnings and windings,
at the bottoms of the mountains. '\¥ith-
in the woods and hollows, robbers make
their harbours, from whence they start out
on single passengers : but we were too
many to be attacked ; so passed untouched,
thougli not unseen by them. The night
was far advanced at our second post ; and
very cold and disagreeable before we
fmished our journey (which was not till
broad day, and three hours after mid-
night) at Bolsano-

Saturday, 24th.

At twelve this morning I waked, and to
my great comfort heard that all my com-
pany were refreshed with their sleep ; but
as none of us cared for such another nis^ht,

€51

we resolved to stay all to-day here, where
both the inn and the town exhibit a very
different aspect from what we have been
used to of late. The arts and sciences are
no more ; and cleanliness and good fare
have taken their place. Trade seems
alive, and women fill the market and the
shops. And here, as I finish my week, I
shall my letter, which I leave with the
master of the house, who has promised me
a safe passage for it. If it comes, receive
it kindly, however trifling in itself, for it
must convince you that I am always think-
ing of you.

H. L. POMFRET.

Bolsano, June, 1741.

252

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Sunday, 25th.

It is surprising to see, in only one days
journey of forty miles, where neither the
sea nor any human law forbids a con-
tinual intercourse, so vast a change in
country, buildings, people, dress, and cus-
toms. At Trent they have lost all the
magnificent, and not attained the com-
fortable; but at Bolsano the houses are
low and warm, the people clean and ro-
bust, the food good and plentiful. One
sees that the Almighty has distributed his
blessings differently ; but left none of his
creatures without a share, not only to live,
but to live agreeably. Mountains rise
just beyond the houses, on all sides of
this small town, which is, however, the
great market between Itcdy and Germany.

253

But to pursue my way. — We set out at
eight this morning. Our journey was very
agreeable, lying along the bottom of the
mountains, and seldom out of sight of the
river Adige, which waters this beautiful
vale. At four in the afternoon we arrived
at an extremely pretty town, with gentle-
men's houses and gardens all about it,
and some in it. Our inn was formerly
one of these, and has a prospect every
way of meadows, corn, and wood, that
not only cover the plains, but rise up the
sides of the mountains that encompass it.
These, sloping upwards from the town,
make it appear as in the area of an am-
phitheatre. In a scene so delightful I
write to you at present; but, being des-
tined to seek another early to-morrow
morning, I must now take leave of you
from Brixen.

254

Monday, 26'th.
A good supper and a good night's sleep
enabled us to set out cheerfully this morn-
ing for the mountain of Brenner. This is
of a vast height, but the ascent and descent
are so easy, the roads so good, and such
care is taken to fence all dangerous places
with low walls or rails, that I could with
great pleasure and sedateness contemplate
the variety which this fine country affords,
enclosed in mountains of a prodigious
size ; some still covered with snow, but
most of them with woods of fir, on the
finest green sward I ever beheld : others
were manured, and rich with corn and
gardens. I'he water that rushed from the
sides of the rocks, and mixed themselves
amongst them, served to auijfment the
Adige ; whose waves, tumbling over great
stones, or running smoothly over pebbles,
completed the beauty of our prospect.
After looking down on precipices, and up

Q55

at eminences beyond the clouds, we ar-
rived at the summit of the hill, from,
whence, with the same agreeable views on-
all sides, the river Inn conducted us to
the city it gave name to, famous in his-,
tory on many accounts, and still the capi-
tal of this country. Having only seen this
place by moon-light, I shall defer till to-
morrow what I have to say of InsprucL.

Tuesday, 27th.
Inspruck lies in a very fine plain, en-
compassed with mountains. The suburbs
are large and agreeable, being a mixture
of green fields and good houses. The
city, though old, is lightsome. We are
just wishin the gate, and at the bottom of
the great street; at the further end of
which stands the town-house, the shed of
whose portico is covered with gold, the
work of a former sovereign, who, being
called " onpti/ purse,'' did this piece of
exti'avagance to confute his calumniators.

Q56

You will be surprised, I believe, as well
as I was, that in so many years the com-
mon people have not conveyed away gold
thus exposed ; but so far are they from
doing it, that, when the elector of Bavaria
(in the late general war) was in possession
of Inspruck, and attempted it, the boors
came down from the mountains and joined
those of the plain in such numbers that
he was forced to desist from his design,
and Feave not only that but many other
treasures, which are not without wonder
seen preserved in a conquered and re-
conquered country. To give you a de-
scription of these I must carry you about
two miles out of the town, by the same
side on which I entered it, to the casde
Amras, Avhere the archduke Ferdinand,
who lived in 15Q.6, made a great and mag-
nificent collection of various kinds of cu-
riosities, which has been since much aug-
mented by his successors. Here are se-
veral very large rooms full of arms and ar-

^57

mour, bright as if now in use. In one are
statues of armour stuffed, and sitting all
round it, whilst the walls are covered with
shields, lances, &c. In another are all
the famous captains of that age, with their
names and pictures. In anotlier there
are (on stuffed horses) figures drest for
tilts and tournaments. In another, a Turk-
ish bashaw and a janissary, in their proper
habits, on horseback, vastly rich. But
what is the most curious in this part of the
collection, is, a lesser room, wherie the ar-
mour of Alexander duke of Parma, go-
vernor of the Low Countries, prodigiously
rich, is placed. Next to this is the armour
in which Francis I. was taken prisoner at
Pavia, not so rich, but still fine. Here
is also an ancient Roman knight, repre-
sented in a complete suit for horse and
man at that time. Round the room are
helmets and shields of the same time, as
finely designed and executed in gold and
steel as those which Vulcan made for
^neas. Besides these, tiiere are bows,

25b

<|ijivei$, mid all the equipage of war before
gunpowder blew up kiiightliood. Above
i?tairs is a Avide gallei-y hung with all the
pictures of the princes related to the house
of Austria; and in the middle of the same
room a long range of presses, so placed,
back to back, and joined at the sides, that
they appear but one, though there are
nine folding doors that open on each side,
and discover as many different partitions.
In the first are arms taken from the Turks.
In the second there are all sorts of works,
in glass, as beads, chains (that ajjpear
gold), pictures with frauK^s, and very pret-
ty landscapes in basso-relievo, and a
thousand other things which I have forgot.
In the third are large grottoes and castles
of pearl and mother-of-pearl ; with trees,
figures, and machines, of coral. In the
fourth are all sorts of works in straw of
every colour. In the fifth are baked
earths, and alabaster in all shapes. In
the sixth are several fine cabinets ; and,
lunoiigst tiie rest, one that represents a

castle with four towers, one of which has
been taken away. There appeared a
round machine within, that was full of lit-
tle drawers, and turned about. These
drawers were filled M'ith antique and mo-
dern cameos and intaglios, to the number
of three thousand five hundred. The
other cabinets are full of gold, silver, and
copper medals, Greek, Roman, and mo-
dern; and besides these there are seven
great volumes, covered with black velvet,
and having silver clasps, whose leaves are
wood, in which are cut round holes that
contain a complete series in silver. In
the seventh are ancient arms very cu-
riously worked, odd, and rich. In the
eighth are natural curiosities; as, birds,
petrified fish, trees, shells, &c. In the
ninth are carved woods of all kinds,
and Avorks in amber, adorned with
gold and pearls. In the tenth there are
various works in ivory ; amongst the rest,
a house and out-houses (made by an arch-
duke named Sigismond), of ivory and

'260

ebony inlaid. In the eleventh arc clocks
and astrolabes. In the twelfth there is a
collection of old books of miniatures, with
gold enameled ornaments, &c. In the
thirteenth are all the instruments of an-
cient and modern music, extremely fme and
curious. In the fourteenth are stones and
minerals of all sorts. In the fifteenth, brass
idols, sepulchral urns, and other antiquities.
In the sixteenth are locks, and several
otlier machines, with steel springs : amongst
the rest, a chair that whenever it is sat in
is crushed together. In the seventeenth
are odd shaped cups, canns, &c., for
drinking out of, in gold, silver, and other
materials ; some men on horseback ; some
foot-soldiers, and other odd figures. The
last was filled with vases and other curio-
sities in <io\d and rock-crvstal, of the finest
workmanship and designs I ever saw.
These even eclipse what were shewn to me
in the tribune of the great duke. Each
piece deserves a particular description ;
but, that my letter may not exceed all

261

bounds, I will only mention that which
they call a standish for writing, but which
was in reality a saltceller of Francis the
First's, and is mentioned at large by Ben-
venuto Cellini, in the life which he has
\vritten of himself The bottom is of
gold, beautifully enameled, and on this
sits a man and a woman, in extremely
fine sculpture of plain gold. He repre-
sents the sea, and leans on a shell ena-
meled, that opens to hold salt. She re-
presents the land, and leans on a palace,
that opens to hold pepper. In one part
of this beautiful group is the salamander,
enameled, with a crown over it; and in
another the letter F, enameled and
crowned also. I suppose it might have
been taken with the king amongst the rest
of his baggage. I stood for some
hours (without knowing it) looking on
these treasures; for when I left Italy,
I did not imagine in the Alps to find
any thing of this sort, or tliat the Ger-
man princes were greater virtuosi than

'26^

tlie Italians ; but by experience I find that
virtue and knowledge are the growth of
every climate, as well as vice and igno-
rance, and travelling convinces one of this
truth. But to return: — having no more
to employ my mind, I found my body so
weary that I could not go up a mount to
see the prospect from what they told me
was an unfinished tower ; which I after-
wards repented of, Avhen I heard from my
lord that in that place Avas the remainder
(but in a terrible condition) of the largest
and finest collection of pictures he ever
saw. The present great-duke of Tuscany,
in returning from his diichy to Vienna,
looked on these treasures with the same
luu'ry and indifterencc that he did on his
own; so they are still left tt> the mercy of
the elements, Avhich have destroyed many
and injured all, for tlie rain and wind
have a free passage to them. At our re-^
turn we went to the church of the Fran-
ciscans, Mhere, besides the great tomb of
Maximilian the First, emperor of Gov-

265

many, are eight-and -twenty statues (ra*
ther larger than life) of emperors, arch-
dukes, and princesses, in fine brass, and in
the ancient rich habits of the time in which
they lived. This must have been long
ago, for the same Frederick who covered
the tOAvn-house door Avith gold is said to
have set up these (I conclude) his ances-
tors, though I can get ho authentic account
even of their names, having neither met
with antiquaries nor books that could in-
form me. A modern curiosity that I saw
must not be omitted, which you will say is
modern indeed, when I tell you that it is the
little archduke in gold, that his mother the
queen of Hungary vowed (if she had a son)
to send to a miraculous image in one of
these churches. I dare say tlie Virgin here
will do as much for her bambino, as the
Virgin of Loretto did for hers, that was sent
on account of such anotlier vow, by Anne
of Austria. ^Ve all know what a figure
Ixwis tlie Fourteenth made in Furope,

264

and, next to the king of England's deck*
ra^tion, this is certainly the greatest hope
of its future fortune. — Enough from In-
spruck.

Wednesday, 18th.

At seven this morning we were in our
post-chaises. Driving through the whole
town, we found that the river Inn (now
become large and rapid) cut it in two. We
passed over the bridge that joins it again,
and from thence went for some time
along flat meadows. Leaving them, we
drove on the sides of hills, that rose from
the banks of the river, where the roads
were neither good nor guarded. As mo,
went further into the mountains, the as-
cents and descents were more frequent
and sudden ; but the highest of all was
Mount Fern, from the top of which, look-
ing down, there appeared a vast round of
jnountains, joined, and covered with fir-

265

trees. At the bottom lay a lake ; and in
the midst of it a green mount, on which
stood a small castle with four towers, used
as a hunting-seat by the late emperor, but
now deserted and mouldering avay. What
added to fhis view, was a piece of a white
rock that appeared from the top of one of
the fir mountains, and, as the sun reflected
on it, looked like silver rising rough from
the mine. From this lofty eminence we
were two hours descending in a zigzag,
which was so artfully cut through the fir,
and the way so even, that it recalled to my
mind your mount at IMarlborough. As
the night came on, it rained ; and we were
advanced now so far in mid air, as to find
winter in the end of June; and coming to
a village a post short of what we intend-
ed, we were glad to stop and have the
stove lighted, and a feather bed to cover
us instead of a quilt, which is the custom
(and not without reason) all the year
round in this cold country ; for this is

VOL. III. N

266'

their hottest season, and they have but Vwa
months of it. In the montli of August, as
the inhabitants inform us, the snow begins
to fall at Hilderwary.

Thursday, 29th.

We could not get out till nine this
morning. At one we left the Alps, and, a
few minutes after, the Tyrol ; having first
past a very strong fortress belonging to
the queen of Hungary, where we were
obliged to show our passport from her
minister at Venice. Fuessin, which is the
first town in Suabia, is situate on the
river Lock, that, before we left the moun-
tains, had given us many fine views by its
serpentine winding amongst the rocks and
tirs. We saw tliis town some time before
we came to it, the fortress being on an
eminence ; and the red covering to the
white houses had a pretty effect. From
hence we entered a large plain, and from
tliat a wild of shrub-wood and common ;

267

but afterwards the country seemed more
cultivated. The roads ^vere extremely
narrow, rough, and dirty, not to say dan-
gerous. Towards night we entered a kind
of forest, ^The ground was covered with
a beautiful turf, on which grew, in great
plenty, a very particular and fine kind of
fir, beginning from the bottom of the
trunk to put out its branches, which ascend-
ed, smaller and smaller, till they finished
in a lofty spire. By the time we left this
charming scene, it was so late that we
thought it better to stop in the middle of
the post, than enter again into those
dreadful roads by night ; and to our great
comfort and surprise found an extremely
neat clean inn, and good accommoda-
tions, in the small village of Densling.

Friday, 30th.
At noon we again set out, and found the
roads excessively bad and dangerous till
we arrived at Hurlach ; from whence, for
N 2

Q6S

fifteen miles, we ran on a vast meadow or
green covered with cattle as far as the
eye could discern. This was bounded
with a wood that I suppose to be fir from
the height and colour of it. We arrived
before night at Augsburg.

Saturday, July IsK
We shall be obliged so stay in this place
to-day and to-morrow, in order to get
clean linen, which this long journey has
left us very little of. I was in hopes, from
a town so celebrated, to have found some-
thing worth telling or bringing you, but
am much disappointed in both. As to
the city itself, it is clean, and the streets
are large. The common houses, like those
in Holland, resemble great barns, turned
endwise to the street ; and here, as in the
Tyrol, the outsides are painted, which is
the only custom of the Venetians which
the inhabitants follow. But, alas ! they
have no Paul Veronese. The glass and

069^

ivory works, once so famous here, are no
more, and even that of silver has lost
much Of its former perfection. The town
does not appear to be greatly peopled ; and
the only things worth mentioning are the
dresses of the females, which are very sin-
gular and various, according to the degrees
and conditions of those who wear them. I
have bought a set of them on cards, whicli
I hope to shew you ; when I shall talk with
more pleasure, than I now stay at Augs-
J?urg.

Sunday, 2d.
This afternoon we went to see a col-
lection of shells, butterflies, plants, mine-
rals, &c. that was very well chosen, and
kept in good order : the owners were ex-
tremely civil, and we spent two hours here
agreeably enough. We afterwards drove
about the city, which is said to be four
miles and a half in compass. It has three
or four fme fountains, adorned with brass
N 3

270

statues ; and the town-house is large autl
handsome, as well as many others belong-
ing to private people. A violent shower
of rain brought us home sooner than we
should otherwise have come; and whilst
our ciiaises are loading for to-morrow,
and our supper is getting ready, I take
this opportunity to assure you of my re-
membrance from Augsburg.
Yours,

H. L. Pom FRET.

^ July 2, N.S,, 174 J.

271

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFOKD.

Monday.

Some disputes with the post kept us from
setting out till nine this morning; but, a§
the weather was not extremely hot, and
OS the roads were good, and the country
open, it was agreeable enough to see the
haymakers at work (for this is the time of
harvest); and when we left Padua the
corn was reaping there — so great a diffe-
rence is there already in our climate.
The customs and manners of the people,
I think I observed to you, had even a
quicker change ; but I cannot help won-
dering to see, at so great a distance from
England, how much the country, the peo-
ple, and their way of living, resembles the
J^nglish, whilst we differ so absolutely
from the French, who are almost joined
n4

272

to us. Here the people of distinction, as
with uSj have country-houses at which they
live, and not in towns; and indeed, un-
less the towns were better, it would be
impossible to live in them. Having made
two posts, Ave crossed the Danube, and ar-
rived at the city of Donawert, taken with
Much gallantry by the duke of Marlborough
in 1 703. It is now under the elector of
Bavaria ; but shoul ^ the king of Prussia,
or even the poor great-duke, attempt to
seize it, I believe one quarter of an hour
would make him master of it; that is,
master of a great many ugly low houses,
built chiefly of wood. The roads from
this town were so terrible that we did not
finish the next post till midnight, which
brought us to the city of Norden.

Tuesday.

Though we raised the people out af
their sleep at so unseasonable an hour,
they contrived to get us a very good sup-

273

per ; after which we had clean and com-
fortable beds, but were too much fatigued
to rise early this morning. Norden is one
of the free towns, but its appearance is
just the same as that of Donawert, though
it is larger. We went to see the great
church, which has manj'^ of its ancient or-
naments remaining, notwithstanding the
forip of worship is changed ; for the inha-
bitants are all Lutherans. As we did not
leave this place till ten, and the roads
were not the best possible, we could not
reach further than three posts, which, in
Germany, are as long as fifty miles in
England. The country of to-day was
open, beautiful to look at, and rich, with
prodigiously large meadows, and vast fields
of corn, interspersed with great woods of
fir : but as the soil is extremely deep,
and the sun cannot dry where the thick-
ness of the trees forbids its passage, and
as this is not a country where many peo
pie go po5t, the roads are so neglected
n5

274

that they are often dangerous, and always
uneasy. Having passed Dinklespiel, an-
other free city, we concluded our journey
at Kreilshen, a town belonging to the
margrave of Anspach.

Wednesday.

Having slept very indifferently last
night, and lain Avorse, we set out at ten.
We had still the same fine country, and
the same bad roads. The latter having
shook my lord's chaise almost to pieces,
we were obliged to stay for four hours in
a little dirty inn at Bl^iusfelden, to have
some new irons made for it. Whilst I
waited here, I amused myself with re-
flecting how the queen, when in her bro-
ther's court, had perhaps often hunted,
or diverted herself other ways, in the very
landscape that I looked at. From this
dream (that drew on a long train of real
and fancied images), I was waked by some
rustic music ; and looking out of tiiat side

275

of the house from whence the noise came,
saw a strange figure in mask dancing be-
fore a young man and woman hand-in-
hand, that were returning from the mar-
riage ceremony, followed by all the vil-
lage in couples. They made to a square
piece of ground that the boughs of five or
six trees united to cover, and here I left
them dancing ; when (our equipage being
in order) we pursued our way ; and about
ten at night came to Mergensheim, the
metropolis of the state, under the great
master of the Teutonic order, now the
elector of Cologne. To-day we began to
see vines again.

Thursday.
This town is very litde better than tlie
others in this part of Germany, only it
has a large open place, and some of the
houses are painted on the outside. Our
victuals were indifferent, and our beds dis-
agreeable, at least to me; who hate sinking

276

into a hole of feathers. At nine we left
it, and travelled till six through a very
disagreeable country, the weather being
violently hot, and the roads so bad that it
was impossible to go faster than a slow
walk ; which, altogether, brought us, almosl;
dead, to Mittemburg, a town on the river
Maine, and under the elector of Mentz.
We found here a clean inn, M'ith a pretty
garden ; and having made a tolerable sup-
per, to avoid such another night I have
desired some straw on my bedstead, in th€
room of feathers.

Friday,
The trial of straw proved very bad, for
I had but little, and that all on one side,
so that, without sleeping one minute, I rose
this morning at five ; but niy company not
being quite so early as myself, we did not
get out till seven, wlien we went, for a
double post, through the finest flat coun-
try imaginable, tiie river Maine on our

^11

right hand, and on our left hills and fine
wood, whilst the bottom we passed along
was a mixture of kitchen-garden and vine-
yard, with as good roads as either the
Alps or the Apennines can boast of.
Crossing the river by a bridge, we entered
the city of AschaiFenburg, where the elec-
tor of Mentz has a very large palace, in
the form of a castle, to which he some-
times comes. The city is large, but in
the same style as the others. Having
changed horses, we proceeded, through the
same good roads, and a very fine country,
for two other posts, which brought us to
Ilanau, larger and more lively than most
of the German towns. This is the capital
of the country of the same name, and is
under the prince of Hesse-Cassel, who
has, just out of the town, a very hand-,
some large palace, and fine gardens, not
unlike those at Hampton- Court. As I
passed I saw a large wood behind it, that
they told me was the park. The court

278

comes there always in May, but does not
stay long. I was sorry not to have time
to walk about it, and see the apartments
belonging to a princess for whom I am so
much interested; but our journey has al-
ready been so tedious that we would not
venture to prolong it another day. Adieu !

H. L. POMFRET.

Frankfort, July 7,
N.S. 1741.

^79

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Richkings, May 14, O. S., 1741.

We hear of nothing but elections. All
the kingdom is in a hurry ; and they say
nothing was ever more riotous than the
proceedings in opposition to my lord
Sundon and sir Charles Wager ; but they
have carried their election* by a conside-
rable majority.

If I delighted in visiting, I might now
have an opportunity of indulging that in-
clination, several of my acquaintance
being just settling in this neighbourhood.
The duchess of Manchester has taken a
house, no bigger than a nut-shell, upon
Engleheld G recn ; where the man for-
merly lived who made the feather dogs,

♦ For the city of Westminster.

280

and the bed which the late king of Po-
land bought. She has added a wooden
porch bigger than the house, and furnish-
ed all her rooms with paper. The
duchess of Kent has bought my lord
Weymouth's, at Old Windsor ; and the
duchess of Beaufort has taken the Her-
mitage on St. Leonard's Hill, where we
lived before we came hither : — but, as
much honour as this does to our environs,
I feel more joy in the thought of having
lord Brooke near me, who, I believe, has
agreed for a house upon Englefield Green,
M'hich general Hill (and, since his death,
general Kirk) bought and lived in. The
latter has much improved it, having built
very gaod offices, and furnished it in the
neatest manner imaginable.

Princess Louisa is recovei'ed, contrary
to every body's expectation. Lady Bris-
tol has been the first whose death has
made a vacancy in our number. I hear
that her end ^vas sudden, a,nd surprising

S81

to those about her, notwithstanding the
many years we heard her complain. She
has left all that was in her power to her
son Felton*.

If our newspapers inform us right, the
king of Prussia has again defeated the
queen of Hungary's troops, — which is a
piece of good fortune that we did not
wish him. I have just heard that the
duke and princesses have got leave to
pass this summer at Kensington, an ac-
count of princess Louisa's health, who,
though past all apprehension of present
danger, continues very weak.

F. Hartford.

* Member of parliament for St. Edmund's Bury,
and groom of the bed chamber to his royal high^
ness the duke of Cumberland.

283

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Richkings, May 20, O, S., J7-il.
deah madam,
This week's mail made me amends for
the disappointment of the last, by bring-
ing me two letters from your ladyship,
and consequently giving me the most
agreeable entertainment imaginable, at a
time when I could hardly have relished
any other ; for my poor lord Avas con-
fined to his bed several days with a very
sharp fit of the gout, which first attacked
his neck and shoulders, and then fell into
his knee, where his pain was excessive.
It is, however, now so much abated that
he is able to go into the next room, and
sit up some hours. This has confined me
so entirely to his bed-side, that I have
not for some days had it in my power to

^5

enjoy the sweetness either of the morning
or the evening air, which has been made
pleasant by the south-west winds and the
gentle showers that have attended them.
However, I see from the windoAvs that
the ground, which appeared parched and
brown from the drought and north-east
winds, is now clothed with the richest
verdure, and enameled with all manner
of flowers. Every hedge offers a nose-
gay, and every herb a perfume. The
alteration of the weather has entirely
changed the face of the country, since,
had it not happened so seasonably, we
appeared to be in tlie utmost danger of
wanting almost every necessary of life.
Beef sold in some places for twelve-pence
a pound; and eveiy thing else was in
proportion. The princess's going to Ken-
sington has been deferred till to-day,
princess Louisa having found some re-
turn of her disorder last week. I find
that her fever was attended witli very

284

dangerous and uncommon symptoms ; for
she had not only an insupportable pain
in her head and side, but a ^convulsed
cramp, that by turns distorted all her
limbs, and gave her pains that it is said
are incredible to describe.

The post to-day has brought us the
welcome news of the taking of Cartha-
gena, and destroying the Spanish fleet.
1 own the account of poor lord Aubrey
Beauclerk's being killed clouded my joy,
botli as 1 know the affliction it gives his
family, and for the uneasiness you would
be under at Mr. Termor's* losing a peison
under whose care your ladyship and my
lord Pomfiet had placed him : but I hope
you have before this time heard from him
that he has escaped unhurt, and that the
command of that ship is given to captain
}3oscawcn, who has an extremely good

* The second son of lord Pomfrct ; afterwards
(I captain in the British fleet. He died in 17-i9'.

285

character. The poor duchess of St. Al-
bans is never likely to hear of her misfor-
tune,— ^for she is, in all probability, very
near her end, having been ill more than
two months; and I find, by a message we
have just received from lord Sidney, that
the family have determined to conceal it
from her.

F. Hartford.

286

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET*

Richkings, May 27, O. S,, 1741.

The courier who had the care of your
last letter, dear madam, had used it in so
terrible a manner that it was almost im-
possible to know how to set about open-
ing it ; for it had been in the water, and
the cover was entirely off at one end.
The letter itself was made into a kind of
pasteboard, so that a knife was necessary
to divide it. I, however, preserved tlie
pieces so carefully that 1 do not believe
I have missed a single word.

Your reception of Mr. Dalton is a new
proof of your goodness to me ; for which
accept my most sincere and affectionate
acknowledgements. It has made his bro-
ther extremely happy, who (if he dared

287

presume to do it) would beg leave to
assure your ladyship of his most respect-
ful gratitude. The obliging ti'ouble you
have given yourself in endeavouring to
procure leave for this young man to copy
some pictures in the Vatican, will be the
greatest advantage imaginable to him. I
am likewise to thank you, dear madam,
on my own account, for taking the pains
to order him to proceed with my drawings
in the manner in which he succeeds best ;
and I am too well convinced of the good-
ness of your taste, to wish to give any
counter order to what you have so kindly
directed for m6. You have given me so
agreeable an idea of the marchesa Pa-
trizzii, that T could wish any thing were
likely to bring her to England ; for,
though my way of life would put it out
of my power to contribute much to her
amusement, I could exert myself to prove
to her that her having done what she

288

could towards making your ladyship's
time pass more agreeably at Rome, Avas
an obligation to me, though so far distant
from you.

I enclose you a copy of a letter from
admiral Vernon to his Avife, because per-
haps you may like to see the style of a
man whose actions at present form so
great a part in the conversations of all
Europe. I own I am pleased to find
him begin by attributing his success not
to his own bravery or conduqt, but to the
Giver of all victory, and praising Him
that the English colours are now flying
on Castillio Grande. However a sense
of religion may be out of fashion amongst
some polite people, it certainly adds a
great lustre to the character of any per-
sons who are so happy as to act under its
influence ; and I think gives one a more
cheerful hope of a blessing upon their
arms, than any degree of human pm-

289

dence or courage could inspire. The
lower part of the people have been trans-
ported beyond measure, by what they call
an auspicious omen, — two young lions
having been whelped in the Tower on tlie
day that the news of the taking of Car^
thagena arrived; — and they have been
called Vernon and Ogle : yet, to prove
that the English mob can never be so
thoroughly pleased as not to have a de-
light in doing mischief, they assembled in
vast bodies, and demolished every win-
dow in London, where there were not
lights, for four nights successively. This
vengeance fell chiefly on empty houses,
or on those whose owners were out of
town; for every body else complied with
them, and illuminated their rails and
houses in the greatest profusion. I do
not hear by what accident the bishop of
Oxford and Dr. Pearce happened to be
either out of the way, or not to think of
this testimony of their joy in time enough j

VOL. III. o

290

but neither of them have a pane of glass,
or a window frame, left in their houses.
The hiijh-constable of Westminster not
only made a very great bonfire, but gave
a hogshead of strong beer at his door.
This the mob had no sooner consumed than
they broke all his windows, and fell to
demolishing his house, in such a manner,
that, if a guard had not immediately been
sent for, it v/ould have been pulled down
in two hours. They had several men in
the middle of them with great flaskets of
paving-stones ready for the slingers (who
attended in great droves) to demolish
whatever was out of their reach by throw-
ing with their hands. In short, the dis-
orders were so enormous, that the regents
have thought it necessary to issue a pro-
clamation for the discovery of the ring-
leaders ; — though as many of the ministry
as were in town have taken every method
to express their joy by the most public
demonstrations of it, and the regents

291

ordered captain Laws, who brought the
express, a thousand pounds, as a reward
for the news.

F. Hartford.

o 2

292

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET. *

Richkings, June 3, O. S., 1741.

I MUST begin this letter by asking your
pardon, dear madam, for having (if I re-
collect) forgot to answer you, in my last,
about the dress of the fashionable young
ladies. This, on the whole, is neither
<^uite French nor quite English ; their hair
being cut and curled after the mode of
the former, and their bodies dressed in
the way of the latter, though with French
hoops. Few unmarried women appear
abroad in robes, or sacques ; and as few
married ones would be thought genteel in
any tiling else. I own myself so awk-
ward as to be yet unable to use myself to
that dress, unless for visits of ceremony ,

* This letter seems to answer the one in p. 142 o.
this volume.

293

since I do not feel at home, in my own
house, without an apron ; nor can en-
dure a hoop, that would overturn all the
chairs and stools in my closet.

That I wish myself wherever you are,
is no wonder, and I hope no news to
you, but that M'hich proceeds from my in-
clination to converse with you more than
for the sake of all the fine things with
which Italy abounds ; though I own (for
the sight itself) I should have been de-
lighted to have attended you to Frescati,
and the theatre where // Pastor Fido was
first acted.

Your saying that the Giustiniani gal-
lery had mwe the appearance of a sculp-
tor's shop than the collection of a noble-
man, reminded me of Wilton, which I
think had very much that air in the late
lord Pembroke's time ; but I am told that
tlie present lord has reformed it a good
deal. I hope you have long before this
03

254

got rid of your disorder, and the young
ladies of their colds.

The Setti Dolori sounds to me just such
a retirement as one would choose. I am
pleased to find that there is no instance
of any persons having left it even for love
or marriage. I fancy, if all convents
were under the same regulation, there
would be much fewer unhappy people,
and far less scandal, than there is at pre*
sent given to the religion they profess.

I am neither surprised at, nor inclined
to blame, your concern at parting with
the marchesa Patrizzii, who, by your de-
scription, is certainly a very amiable and
valuable woman. I am glad to find we
may hope to see signor Uguccioni here,
for whom you have also given me a great
esteem. It is true, that two years seem
half a century to my imagination, which
has long been unaccustomed to lay
jschemes even for a month to come ; butj

295

if I do live so long, I shall feel a sincere
pleasure in conversing with a person who
has had the judgement to distinguish your
merit, and the happiness to be serviceable
to you.

My lord Halifax's marriage with miss
Dunk is fixed for the first of next month.
She brings him (as his family say) a hun-
dred and ten thousand pounds ; which
will be a very seasonable assistance to
him, who, with a very small estate, is by
no means an economist. My lord Con-
way and my lady Bell Fitzroy were mar-
ried last week : but I do not hear that
lord Euston's marriage is either drawing
to a conclusion or entirely off.

I am at present drinking Cheltenham
waters, which intoxicate me to such a
degree that I can hardly see what I am
about, and confound all I read or write,
— of which I am afraid this letter will
afford an incontestable proof; and, there-
o 4

296

fore, I think the best I can do (for yoiu"
ladyship, as well as myself) will be to
conclude it, with the assurance of mj
being ever,

Mo5t faithfully, yours,

F. Hartfori*.

^97

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD *.

Saturday,

Frankfort is that among the free cities
in which the emperor ought to be elected ;
and it is filled at present (besides several
strangers) with tlie trains of ambassadors
sent from different powers upon this occa-
sion. The mareschal de Belle Isle out-
shines the rest ; but as the determination
seems deferred, he (as well as some others)
is gone to visit his court. That of Hano-
ver is at present more splendid than ever ;
and it is thought that the emperor will be
made there before he is chosen here.
The situation of this place is very agreea-
ble ; the ramparts are strong and beauti-
ful, and the town, though old and ill built,
has some large streets and open places,

* This letter was written in answer to the four last.

258

which, with the concourse of people now
in it, give it a cheerful appearance. Here
is great abundance of all kinds of pro-
visions ; and our inn is a palace, where we
find it very comfortable, and indeed ne-
cessary, to refresh ourselves a day or two,
before we proceed in our journey.

Since I wrote the last paragraph, my
lords banker has been here, and ac-
quainted us with the unfortunate success
of the siege of Carthagena. I will not
trouble you with the anxiety I feel on
this occasion.

Sunday.
I have sat in my room endeavouring to
amuse myself with reading, but to no pur-
pose, till the afternoon, when I went to
take the air in the meadow by the side of
the river that runs through the town, or
rather joins Frankfort and Saxehausen to-
gether by a bridge over it. The whole
city, at this time, is divided into nine parts;

299

each elector has one, and can command
every house in his share to be inhabited as
he pleases. That we are in belongs to the
elector of Treves. Adieu, dear madam !
and excuse my not entertaining you better.

Monday.
Had I been in a disposition to enjoy di-
versions, this place is not destitute of them,
since there is a French play every night,
and the town is full of company ; but rest
is all I seek, which having attained suffi-
ciently to renew our journey, we propose
doing so to-morrow morning.

Tuesday.
If I could convey to your ladyship the
scenes, and agreeable manner of passing
through them, which I have had to-day,
it would be some amends for the dull
hours I have made you partner in at
Frankfort. We left that city at half an
hour after six this morning, embarking;

300

upon the river Maine, in a covered boat,
which was neither aided by sails nor
horses, but steered and rowed as ours are
upon the Thames ; which to me is more
agreeable than either of the other ways.
Here we sat surveying, out of the windows,
the rich country of Germany, which (in
this part at least) is an extremely fine and
agreeable one. The towns and villages
were very frequent ; and, though not the
most charming when nearly examined,
at a small distance, the water between,
and trees intermixed, add greatly to the
prospect. About noon we arrived at
Mentz, the capital of the electorate ; and,
besides a very fine convent of Carthusians
on a hill near, the view of this shore is en-
riched with a villa belonging to the elec-
tor, that has, in the garden before it, three
pavillions on each side, in the same man^
ner as those at Marli ; but the principal
house here is much nobler than that. At
this place the Maine falls into the Rhine,

301

upon which there is a bridge of boats.
This opens to let boats of passage pro-
ceed in their way ; but the getting of per-
mission, and showing our passport, took
up three hours, part of which time we
spent in dining on some cold meat that we
had brought with us, but we did not go oa
shore. Nothing could be more agreeable
than the rest of our voyage, which, on this
fine river, at half an hour after seven^
brought us to a small village on the bank
of it, called Rucdesheim, where we have
clean beds, good wine, and something to
eat.

Wednesday.
At six this morning we embarked again,
and at half an hour after entered, for a
third time, amongst mountains. Having
been in some places on the top of these
excrescences of the globe, in others on the
gjdes, and in otliers at the feet, behold me

302

now swimming through the water that
curls its rapid stream from one mountain
to another. These rise on each side in
craggy rocks of various shapes ; which,
however, the labour and industry of the
people have covered with vines. Along
the bottom are towns, castles, and houses,
that look extremely pretty, but are some
hindrance to our expedition ; for, as the
territories of the several princes are very
much interwoven on the banks of this
river, we are obliged to shew our pass-
port so often, and the people take up so
much time in considering of it, that a third
of our time on the water is spent in this
way. The little slips of meado\vs, and
the trees that are placed in most of the
villages, make very pretty pictures. Nor is
this shore destitute of the noble as well as
the agreeable ; for often, on the top and up
the sides of the rocks, are fortresses and
large towns, whilst the bottoms of the same

303

eminences are adorned with other towns
equally large, and mixed with greens.
What contribute to the beauty of these
buildings at a distance, are a certain red
and white stone that is found in this coun-
try, and the slate which the mountains
produce, and with which the houses are
covered. At nine we came to the castle
called Phaltz, and from which the elec-
tors of the Rhine were originally named
Palsgraves. It stands in the very middle
of the river, without any land ; and, how-
ever celebrated of old, is now only filled
with invalids : it is, however, kept in good
repair. Here we entered the palatine's do-
minions, but soon quitted them again for
those of the elector of Mentz ; in which,
at a place called Oberlandstein, there is
a large old castle beautifully situated.
Whilst the governor of it was examining
our passport, we went and walked in his
garden. Near tliis is a vast lime-tree,

504

the branches of which are so well ma-
naged, and supported by wood, that they
encircle three rooms, one above anotlier ;
and from the floor of the third the body
of the tree shoots up a considerable height,
and then sends out a very large double
top. From hence the banks began to eni-
large themselves into meadoMs, groves,
and fields ; and at Coblentz (where we
arrived at four in the afternoon) the
rocks on this side the river retired almost
out of sight. On the opposite shore to
this city stands a very lofty rock, at the
bottom of which is a large palace, where,
at this time, the elector of Treves resides.
From this house runs (in the form of a Z)
a wall with towers to the very summit of
the cliff, where it joins a fortress encom-
passed with a town. Leaving this place,
at which the JMoselle pays its tribute to
the Rhine, we advanced, winding through
a plainer country, till about seven in ii)<e

505

evening, when our boatman tliought fit to
conduct us to the worst inn I have seen
since I left Italy, in a little town under
the elector of Cologn, called Andernach.

Thursday..
At five this morning we rose, in the
hopes of concluding our voyage at night ;
but the wind was so violent and contrary
that the boatman would not venture out ;
and we were obliged to stay in the- inn till
four in the afternoon, when the tempest
was a little abated; but the wind and
waves were still so high that we were de-
prived of a great deal of the pleasure which
the mountains contributed to give to the
scenes. In three hours we reached Lintz,
a walled town on the other side of the
river, but under the same prince. Here
our inn is something mended ; from whence
I bid you good night.

306

Friday-
Betwixt seven and eight in the morning,
the sky serene, and the water smooth, we
quitted the land, and had a most delight-
ful voyage. We passed by Bonn, a city
that, with two others, gave occasion to the
famous medal of the duke of Marlborough,
afterwards suppressed. It is now the usual
residence of the elector of Cologn, and
makes a good appearance from the river ;
but as we did not land I can give you no
particular account of it, any more than that
it stands in a flat country, we having entire-
ly left the hilly one a little before we arrived
there. It was near three in the afternoon
when w^e finished our water conveyance.
We are now just risen from table at an
admirable inn, the sign of the Holy Ghost,
in Cologn.

307

Saturday.

Being obliged to stay here to-day, to
put our chaises in order, I inquired what
there were to be seen in tlie town ; and
was told a fine cathedral, a golden cham-
ber, and the ramparts. In order to be-
hold these wonders we hired a coach, and,
going to the church, saw what was greatly
imagined in the Gothic style, but never
half finished, with five aisles of lofty pil-
lars, that sprang out at top into cross
arches ; but all the rest was a heap of rub-
bish. As to the golden chamber (which
is at the Ursuline's church), I think I
may say I have been in the best set-out
charnel-house in the world. One third
of the height next the ceiling was stuck
with bones^ bits of sculls, teeth, &c. in
divers figures and devices. Some of the
larger served for letters, in which I read
Sancta Ursula ora pro nobis. In
the lower part there were three rows, one
above another, of small niches, in every

30«

one of which stands a bust of wood, lacquer-
ed with gold and colours, having each face
and neck formed of true silver. They
each open at the top of the head, and
discover a real scull within, adorned
with a velvet cap, embroidered with
pearl. These they named such and such
saints of the court of St. Ursula, who,
with her lover, an English king, held the
first place. I saw their sculls, a bone of
his hand, and the cowl of her veil, with,
set in gold, the ivory cup which I sup-
pose was common to them both. These
two sights having answered so well, I
should certainly have gone home without
seeing the third, had I not been desirous
to take the air, which I did most agreea-
bly, there having been peace so long in
this country that the plantations on the
ramparts are become old wood, and the
ramparts themselves are hardly distinguish-
ed for such, but appear a higher ground,
from which one sees the country. Co-

309

logn is a free town, and the elector is only
archbishop of it.

Sunday.

We left Cologn at seven this morning,
«,nd soon after entered, once more, the
dominions of the elector palatine. Chang-
ing horses at Berge and at Juliers (the
contended prize, for which a war is likely
to rekindle whenever the present possessor
dies), at four we arrived at the gates of
Aix-la-Chapelle, where the post is kept
Here we waited four hours for very bad
horses, that, with some difficulty, convey-
ed us about half the post ; in which we
left <jermany for the Low Countries;
when, the night overtaking us, we stopped
at a village called Gulpen, under the
government of the United Provinces.
Here, having eaten something, I lay down
in my clothes till the morning, all the
beds being taken up before we came.

310

Monday.

At four we got into our chaises, and,
with the same bad horses as the night
before, pursued our way to the city of
Maestricht, where we crossed the river
Maes. This town formed a beautiful ap-
pearance as we approached it, from the
great number of fine trees on its ram-
parts ; and when in it, the houses, the
streets, and people, appeared excessively
different from most of those of Germany.
From St. Trugen, two posts further, the
road was paved, and planted on each side.
We proceeded through this " garden of
our north," till we arrived at the city of
Louvain : and here I found myself so
much fatigued, that, though it was no later
than six o'clock, I chose to stop, eat my
supper, and go to bed.

511

Tuesday.
Having but one post to make to-day,
we did not set out till nine, the same fine
road continuing, ^ through the same beau-
tiful country ; and about one we finished
our long journey at the city of Brussels.
Here, to my infinite satisfaction, I found,
amongst others, a letter from my son in
the West Indies ; which informs me that
he was close to lord Aubrey when he was
killed; and that lord Augustus Fitzroy
has taken him on board his ship, and
ti'eats him with the greatest kindness ima-
ginable. I had also the pleasure of four
of your ladyship's agreeable letters ; for
which I return you my most grateful ac-
knowledgements. And now, dear madam,
tliat I am in a place where I can both
hear from you and answer you in a week,
it will be no longer necessary to lay in a
provision beforehand, in order to enjoy
the pleasure of your conversation : there-
fore, as my journey is finished, my diary

312

shall be so too, — happy if it has in the
least contributed to your amusement,
though I should be impudent to suppose
it could, unless you had said so ; but
since you have, it would be ungrateful in
me to doubt it. This alone prevents my
making any more excuses or compliments
than those that always sincerely attend
your ladyship and family from

H. L. POMiRIT.

July 18th, N. S., 1741.

315

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

I AM to go to MarlborougR to-morrow,
and must set out very early, for we go
through in a day, and the distance is near
sixty miles. Lord Brooke and Mr. Leslie,
who have been with us some time, left us
yesterday in the evening. The former
will soon be with us again, for he begins
his journey to his own house near Salis-
bury to-morrow also ; but Mr. Leslie is
not likely to return to us so shortly, for
he goes to Scotland with my lord and lady
Rothes in a few days.

My lord Dupplin was married a few
days since to miss Ernley, who brings him
an estate of upwards of 2000/. a-year, with
the house where your ladyship lay, near
Sandy Lane, when you went to Batli with
princess Amelia. Some distant degree of

VOL. III. p

314

relationship gave him a pretence tq visit
her tliis winter in London, and he thought
she allowed him some reason to believe
he was not disagreeable to her ; but a con-
sciousness that he was not able to propose
any settlement answerable to her fortune,
prevented him from offering himself to
her, till a few days before he was obliged
to set out for Ireland, in consequence of
the employment which was given him there
at the rising of the parliament; when he
found that his approaching journey gave
her a visible concern. This inspired him
with courage to profess liis regard for her,
and at the same time to lament his misfor-
tune that his unhappy circumstances must
cut him off from every hope of passing
the remainder of his life with the only
woman who could make it agreeable to
him. Her manner of receiving his de-
claration (though it was not such as gave
him any absolute assurance of her inten-
tions) alforded lini; ground to believe that

315

she would marry him at his return ; but
he kept his hopes an absolute secret from
every mortal except his brother. The
evening before he was to set out for Chester
(where he was to embark) he came to
take his leave of her, and staid two or
tliree hours; and the next morning began
his journey as soon as it was light. Be-
twixt one and tvvo at noon a friend of hers
went to make her a visit, and to her great
surprise found her drowned in tears, and
in the greatest disorder imaginable. She
begged to know the meaning of so unex-
pected a scene. Miss Ernley was at first
unwilling to tell her, but, overcome by her
earnest entreaties, acknowledged that a
gentleman, on whom, as a ward, she had
devolved, by the death of his father, had
proposed himself to her several times,
and she had as often refused him : and
that he had been with her that morning,
and had upljraidcd her in the most inso-
knt terms with her paitiality for lord
p 2

316

Dupplin, and for receiving his visits. Siie
added, that, as she Avas now of age, if my
lord Dupplin had been in London she
would immediately have married him,
and have put an end to so insupportable
a persecution. Her friend, told her, that
he was not yet gone so far but that he
might easily come back, and begged of her
to send for him. This she absolutely re*
jected ; and the friend finding all her
arguments to no purpose, asked, whetherj
if any unforeseen accident should bring
him back, she would then marry him : she
said she would. Upon this her visitor took
leave, and immediately contrived to ac-
quaint my lord Oxford with what had
passed. He dispatched an express with
a letter to my lord Dupplin, who was just
going to bed at the place where he meant
to rest that night ; but he very gladly
changed his design, and set out imme-
diately for London, where he came in the
morning. My lord Oxford begged of

317

mis8 Ernley that she would marry him
that evening; however, it was agreed to
defer the marriage till the next day ; in
which interval a lawyer was employed to
draw up articles; and the ceremony was
performed, at the time appointed, in Ox-
ford chapel.

Since I wrote the former part of my
letter, I havp had the pleasure to receive
your ladyship's of the 2d of June, from
Bologna. I cannot jfind words to express
the meaning of my heart for all your
goodness to me : but as your own has
every generous and friendly sentiment,
I must appeal to it, to interpret what I
cannot explain. I was extremely pleased
with the gallery in the Caprara palace,
and cannot help thinking that its orna-
ments, extraordinary as they are, must
give a very noble air to the apartment.
I am also charmed with the Montagnuola,
which must form a delightful landscape.
It would have made me very happy, could
p 3

318

I have attended you to visit the sigiiora
Laura Bassi. Her attainments do honour
to our se.x.

Amelia seems an unhicky name for
princesses. Indeed I find there are more
tiian one of it, who have failed of such
establishments as they might reasonably
have hoped for at their first entrance into
life.

We drove, the other morning, to look at
a pond, or rather lake, which the duke of
Marlborough is niaking near his park.
It contains twenty-seven acres. There
is a head of clay at one end which is raised
twenty feet in perpendicular height ; but
I am much mistaken if it will hold better
than that of the Serpentine River in Hyde
Park, for his workmen (of whom there are
an hundred constantly employed) appear
very ignorant of what they are about.

Lord Brooke charged me to tell your
ladyship, that, though he is very sincerely
your humble servant, you must prepare

319

for a quarrel with him, as soon as he has
the honour to see you. The occasion of
this is, your having omitted to visit the
cascade at Terni. In the mean time I am
to beg that you and your family will accept
of his best respects, those of mine al-
ways attending them ; and my own, I am
sure, can never be wanting to those whose
merit would so justly claim them even if
they were not allied to your ladyship, for
whom I have the most inviolable esteem
and friendship, and to whom I shall ever
be a

Most affectionate and obedient
humble servant,

F. Hartford.

June X8, O. S., 1741.

P 4

320

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Antwerp, July 31, N, S., 1741.

I WAS exti'emely pleased with reading
your history of lord Dupplin's marriage,
I know him a little, and am glad of his
good fortune ; but cannot help thinking
the fiuend more his than the lady's. By
this time your ladyship, I hope, has reco-
vered the fatigue of your journey, and
that you enjoy tlie sweets of a more distant
country, though not so much a retreat,
as it is in your power to make Richkings.
If my lord Brooke is returned to you, be
so good as to make him my compliments,
and say hoAv sorry I am that we are to
renew our acquaintance in war. 1 hope,
however, that he will not be so rigid as
our parliament, and reject a convention ;
which if permitted, I trust I shall be able

321

to shew so much reason for my proceed-
ing, that he will approve my conduct in
proportion to the applause I gave to his,
in a more material affair, — that of taking
possession, with a grandeur worthy his
blood and fortune, of the noble palace of
his ancestors, and not sculking, like a
modern hero, in a cheesecake-house.

This fine country is now in its utmost
beauty — I fear in a double sense, wars and
rumours of wars being heard all around
us. What a pity it is that this fertile land,
covered thick Avith every kind of grain,
the noble plantations that adorn not only
the great paved roads, but every bye lane
and winding way, should all be laid waste
by the devouring daemon of ambition ; and
these beautiful and useful canals, that
now only move to conduct refreshment
and commerce, should become horrid with
blood, and choaked with human bodies !
Dismal Imagination !— let us leave it.
I am come here only on a party of
p 5

322

pleasure, with all the company of the
Hotel de Flandres ; amongst whom is my
lady Clifford, whose mother (Mrs. Blunt)
lives here, and whom she is come to see,
before she leaves these parts for England,
where I believe we shall both arrive about
the same time.

II. L. POMPRET.

323

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Marlborough, July 2, O. S., 1741.

Your account of Ferrara, dear madam,
is the melancholy picture of the instability
of all human greatness. How much it is
changed since it was adorned for the re-
ception of Renee, princess of France !
though even at that time a sovereignty
much inferior to what she might have com-
manded had she married in her father's
life-time, or if our friend, Francis the First,
had not more regarded political views,
than those of aggrandising her fortune.
However, the many great and good qua-
lities she possessed, will always secure her
a rank amongst the most considerable
princesses that we have any account of
in history.

324

I do not wonder that you reflect on poor
Ariosto's vain attendance in the palace
over-against your inn. It is impossible
to read his Orlando Furioso without sur-
prise that a man who found no fruits from
his labour could pursue it with so vast a
stock of vivacity as appears in every part
of this work, which, one should think, could
only proceed from a head and heart en-
tirely at ease, and is a fresh instance that
happiness must be from within, or not be
at all. Since, however, outward circum-
stances might seem to give cause of vexa-
tion to the author of that poem, it is im-
possible to read it and suspect him to be
troubled with the spleen. This, if he had
been inclined to, I am convinced he must
have found occasion for, whilst he lived
under the patronage of those who had so
little taste for his genius. I should have
been so glad to have dined with you at
Venice, that, in spite of superstition, 1

325

should have been content, instead of the
sixth, to have made the thirteenth at your
table.

Lord Brooke and Mr. Young (who was
secretary to my lord Waldegrave at Paris)
came hither last night, and will make some
stay here. My lord Harry Powlet's eldest
daughter is to be married this week to the
eldest son of Mr. Colebroke, who was one
of the South-Sea directors ; and I hear he
settles three thousand pounds a-year (in
present) upon them. She Mali soon be a
great lady, for the duke of Bolton* is
dying of a dropsy ; so his duchess's sor-
rows and Polly's hopes are both near an

* The duke of Bolton lived till the year 1754.
His first duchess was lady Anne, the daughter of
John lord Vaughan, and earl of Carberry, in Ireland.
They were separated some years before her death,
in 1751 ; soon after which his grace was married to
Mrs. Lavinia Fenton, a celebrated singer, and well
known as the original Polly in Gay's piece, the
Beggar's Opera.

326

end. I misinformed you when I said lord
Morpeth was dead, though the report of
his being so M'as general and uncontested
for several days ; but I had a letter last
post, out of Yorkshire, from Betty, who
tells me that he is yet alive, though so ill
that there are no hopes of his recovery.
Lord Carlisle has only one son besides,
and he has been subject to fits from his
childhood, which makes the loss of this a
very heavy affliction to him.

We have soldiers continually passing
through this town, who are going to the
camp near Colchester, where there are
several regiments already. The reports of
what tliey are designed for, are various,
and I fancy equally groundless, since,
whatever their employment is to be, I dare
say very few people have, as yet, been in-
trusted with a knowledge of it.

Your old lady's maxim, of saying nothing
when one has nothing to say, rebukes me at
this moment ; for I never had less to talk

327

of, and yet, unluckily, I never found myself
in a more talkative humour ; but I think
it will be proper to indulge it no longer
than whilst I am assuring you of my being,
dear madam,

Most faithfully and obediently.
Yours,

F. Hartford,

P. S. As the post goes out from hence
by eight in the morning, I had finished this
letter last night; but our packet from
London having brought me your lad}'--
ship's last letter from Venice, and that
from Bolsano, I am too grateful for so
delightful an entertainment not to acknow-
ledge it in this paper, though I have not
time to say any thing upon several subjects
which they have furnished to my contem-
plations, but which must be reserved to
another post. That part which relates
to Mr. Fernior, is too interesting to allow
of my silence, as I most sincerely share

328

your anxiety on his account; but I truly
hope and believe he is well, as we have not
heard the contrary, and I have seen all
the lists of the killed, wounded, sick, and
dead, where many names of much less
consequence than his are mentioned, and
I am sure he is not amongst them. But I
hope, before this, you have had an assu-
rance of his safety from his own hands. I
am sorry you did not receive the letter I
wrote you, with the account of what I had
heard of the taking ot^ those forts ; for
though I could not speak certainly of i\Ir.
Fcrnior's having escaped, you would have
been satisfied by it, that there was no ac-
count of his having received any hurt. — I
am now at a loss how to direct to you ; but
shall order my porter to carry this to my
lady Lempster's, and, if he can get infor-
mation there, to forward it ; and if not, to
keep it, and Avaiton you Avith it, as soon as
you arrive. Till I hear that good news,
I will not fail to write once a week as

329

usual, since it would be an insupportable
penance to let your letters lie by me un-
answered.

Adieu, dearest madam f May every hap-
piness attend you and your family on your
voyage, and may you, at your landing,
meet with the news of the health of all
you love, and whatever else can make
your situation the most agreeable to you
in your native land \

Once more adieu t

S'oO

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRKT,

Marlborough, July 9, O. S., 1741.
DEAR MADAM,

It has long been acknowledged that there
are no roses without thorns since those
which bloomed in Eden. Your letters
are delightful as those flowers ; bat, alas !
my answers are barren as the thorns which
are produced on the bushes since the
earth was pronounced accursed. Every
day brings me a new conviction, that loss
of health does not more deface the out-
side, and ruin the strength of the body,
than it impairs the intellects : and I am far
from agreeing with Mr. Waller, that

The soul's dark cottage, batter'd and docay'd,
Lets in new light, thro' chinks that Time has made.

But, to leave a subject that must prove

331

either the parent or the child of Spleen,
I will tell you that I was much entertained
with the story of the married priest, which
is certainly a very surprising one. I shall
be anxious to hear that he is released from
the fortress ; and would gladly put some of
his family there in his room, especially if
any of them are yet living who imposed
so cruelly on him by the- false report of
his wife s death ; though I can hardly par-
don his credulity upon that subject, nor
his having so entirely forgot the lady as not
to know her again when they met.

The magazine of glass must have been
a very pretty sight, and will make the des-
serts that are adorned with it, have the
appearance of some of those enchanted
banquets which madame D'Annoiss be-
neficent fairies so frequently provided in
a wild forest or barren island. None of
the convents you have seen lately, suit my
taste so well as that of the Dolori, the

33£

inhabitants of wliich seem contented with
the liberty they enjoy, without wanting to
transgress its bounds.

I can easily imagine how little joy you
found in the masquerade at Venice, when
you had not only your own concern for
Mrs. Conyers to depress your spirits, but
that of my lord Pomfret, and the pain he
endured with the gout into the bargain,
I believe that neither of our hearts feel
the most sharp wounds from what affects
only ourselves : and one may justly say of
balls and masquerades, as Sappho does of
the Muse and lute

They are th' enjoyments of a heart at ease.

I wish you had been enough so to have
had a curiosity to see the coronation of a
new doge, the ceremony of which is said
to be very magnificent : and as I must not
hope to see you before October, I could
have been contented with a short delay,

353

if it had not protracted your return beyond
that time.

If lord Brooke is not partial, in his ac*
count of the beauty and gracefulness of
the queen of Hungary, it must have been
a very agreeable thing, if, with a wish,
one could have been carried to see her
public entry into Presburg, which she made
on horseback, in a Hungarian habit, em-
broidered (as her housings and bridle also
were) with pearls, diamonds, &c. It was
well that her aunt, who is governess of the
Low Countries, was not obliged to attend
her in the same dress, since she would
have made but an odd appearance on this
occasion ; as, I imagine, you may guess
before this time, for I conclude you will
make your route by Brussels.

How could you be so unkind, dear
madam, as to think of making an apology
for mentioning your fears in regard to
Mr. Fermor ; since nothing could mortify
•me mor€ than to believe you could think

me so self-interested as to wish only to
share in your pleasures, and bear no part
in what gives you pain and anxiety.

How melancholy must the conclusion of
your journey from Venice to Padua have
appeared, when you could only direct
your steps by the flashes of lightning !
which would have appeared to me a very
dreadful guide, having, Avithin these three
years, seen JMarlborough set on fire in
three places at once, by a tempest of that
kind, and having two horses killed, about
two yeaj-s ago, within a hundred and fifty
yards of the place where my daugliter and
myself were standing.

Lord Brooke left us yesterday morning,
and took lord Bcauchamp with him : so that
our table is reduced to four })cople, all
our company being gone except Mr.
Ilamsden and j\Ir. Cowslad.

$ss

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Marlborough , Ju ly 1 6 , O. S., 1 74 1 .
"bEAR MADAM,

Through what a variety of delightful
scenes have your letters conducted me!
and how faithfully has my imagination
attended you through them all! Whilst
your reflexions have improved and warm-
ed my heart toward the Giver of all good
things, who is alike present in all places.
At Brixen your situation charmed me,
and gave me the idea of the richest pros-
pect imaginable, and at the same time
of a retreat sheltered from parching suns
and cutting winds. Your next day's
journey furnished me with a different
view, but equally beautiful: and the wa-
ters tumbling over great stones, or run-

)S6

ning smoothly over pebbles, inspired %
melancholy by no means unpleasing.

The city of Inspruck must be a very
agreeable one. I think the portico of the
town-house is (without a pun) a glaring
instance of the mistakes people are liable
to fall into, who govern their actions en-
tirely by the opinions of others, and are
over -anxious about popular applause,
which, after all, is commonly the effect of
chance or caprice, rather than the reward
of real merit. It is indeed wonder*
ful that this monument of its builder's
weakness should have passed untouched
through the hands of so many as have
by turns conquered and lost the place.
But I am not half so glad that it
has escaped, as that the rarities in
the castle of Amras have been pre-
served : and I am sure you were very
agreeably surprised to find such a trea-
sure of the produce of all the arts, in a

337

part of the world so little famous for
taste and science. I coidd beat tliose
modern princes, for suffering the noble
collection of pictures in the old tower
to be exposed to, and destroyed by,
the inclemency of the weather. I am
also grieved that Frederick, who was
careful to transmit the figures of so many
of his family to posterity, could be con-
tented to let their names and histories be
buried in oblivion.

The golden image of the little arch-
duke gives one, at the same time, a re-
gard for the queen of Hungary's piety,
and a compassion for the errors she
has imbibed with her education. If we
may rely on our newspapers, the king
lias at last complettd the long-wished-
for accommodation betwixt that princess
and the king of Prussia. 1 believe the
forests and mountains of fir over which
y>u travelled must have affortlcd you a
\(My awful and romantic scene, and am

vol.. III. Q

338

pleased that any thing on your road re-
minded you of Marlborough. The decay
of the art of working ivory, glass, and sil-
ver, must take oflF a great deal both from
the curiosity and traffic of Inspruck,
since I think these were the only com-
modities it was famous for, and I have
formerly seen a great many pretty things
that came from thence, and from Nurem-
berg. I should have been glad to ha\'e
shared your reveries, and indulged my
own at Blansfelden, whilst you were over-
looking the fields and the shades where
our late mistress had passed the first
scenes of her life, before the cares of
royalty had clouded the natural vivacity
of her temper, or the disguise which gicat-
ness is often forced to wear had veiled
any of its native goodness and inno-
cence; and certainly she had a greater
stock of both, than is often found in any
rank. I fancy you did not pass the
prince of Hesse's palace and park without

339

some reluctance, for it was natural to wish
to look into the state apartment of a
princess, whom you have so often seen in
her nursery amongst her playthings : she
and the princess royal are both with their
father at Hanover ; a privilege the latter
lias not enjoyed since she left it at five
years old.

Since I wrote the last line of this side,
the post is come in, and has brought me
your ladyship's agreeable journal to
Brussels. But though all you write gives
me pleasure, I have not, through the
course of our correspondence, experi-
enced it so much as in the paragraph
that told me you had received a letter
from Mr. Fcrmor, since I have truly
shared in your anxiety on his account,
as I now sincerely rejoice with you on.
the news of his safety.

Our London letters last nio-ht brouii'ht
us word, that sir Thomas Frankland was
married to a very young woman, exceed-
Q 2

340

ingly pretty, but of no family nor for-
tune, the daughter of a physician in
York.

F. Hartford.

341

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Richkings, June 20, 1741, 0. S.

If it were not too natural to consult one's
own pleasure before that of one's friends,
1 might very well have omitted writing to
your ladyship by this post, since I cannot
even deceive myself into a hope that I can
find any thing to amuse you ; and yet
I cannot resolve to be silent, even when
I have nothing to say ! Behold, dear ]\Ia-
dam, the unaccountable effect of a sincere
and faithful friendship, that can make me
choose rather to be troublesome, than not
converse with you. I put myself in mind
of a well-meaning relation of my own,
who will rather scold her fiiends, than
not talk to them, or often rail at them
behind their backs, rather than not make
them the subject of her discourse. But
Q 3

342

I will change mine to tell you, that by
the death of Mrs. Nicols, her jointure of
eight hundred pounds a-year comes to
Mr. Keck. I hope this piece of good
fortune will retrieve his affairs, and make
lady Susan perfectly happy, I am afraid
poor lord and lady Carlisle are com-
pletely otherwise, by the death of lord
Morpeth.

Stephen Duck (who is here at present)
begs leave, with his humble duty, to
offer 3^ou the enclosed ode, which I think
is as pretty as any thing I have seen of
his. I have been reading a short account,
that is just published, of a journey
through Tuscany to Home, with a kind
of description of that city. How Ioav does
it fall, when compared with yours ! In
describing the cathedral of Sienna, the
author seems only struck -with the pave-
ment. He passes some time at Florence
without observing the beautiful bridge ;
meets the great duke and duchess on the

343

road thither, and only remaiks that they
had a small rethiue, besides their own
servants, and that he stopped in his
chaise whilst they passed him, but gives
no account of their persons ; though he
is at the trouble of informing the public,
from Rome, that most of the Cardinals
have gray hair.

It is now a fortnight since I have had
the pleasure of hearing from your lady-
ship, but I have (in imagination) attend-
ed you to the doge's palace at Venice,
the front of which I am acquainted and
charmed with, from a large picture that
feir Hugh Smitiison has of it, painted by
Canneiletti. Lord Brooke has also some
views of that city, painted by the same
master. It must certainly be a surprising
and noble sight; but I am afraid you will
not find the society there so agreeable as
that at Rome ; for I am told that, partly
from the laws of the republic, and partly
from the poverty of the noble Venetians,
Q 4

544

they seldom converse with strangers. I
do not know whether your ladyshijD re-
niendjers Madam Tronn, when she was
amhassadress here, at the accession of the
late king : she was then a very pretty
woman. Soon after I was married, I
liad some accjuaintance with her, and
sliould he glad to know if she is -still
aliv'C. I heard some years ago, that the
liberty of our English customs have not
added to her happiness, since she re-
turned to live according to those of lier
own country.

Farewell aspiring thought;), no more
My soul shall leave the peacel'iil shore.

To sail ambition's main :
Fallacious as the harlot's kiss,
\"ou promise me uncertain bliss,

And give me certain pain.

A beauteous prospect first you shew,
Which, e'er survey'd, you paint anew.
And paint it \\oiid'rons pleasant :
This in a third is (juickly lost,
Thus future good we covet most^
But ne'er enjoy the present.

345

Deluded on from scene to scene,
We never end, but still begin,

By flatt'ring hope betray 'd.
I'm weary of the painful chase,
Let others run this endless race

To catch a flying shade.

Let others boast their useless wealth,
Have I not honesty and health,

AVhich riches cannot give ?
Let others to preferment soar,
And, changing liberty for power,

In golden shackles live.

'Tis time at length I should be wise ;
'Tis time to seek substantial joys,

Joys out of Fortune's power:
Wealth, honours, dignity, and fame.
Are toys, the blind, capricious dame,

Takes from us every hour.-

Come, conscious Virtue, fill my breast.
And bring Content, thy daughter, drest

In ever-smiling charms :
Let sacred friendship too attend,
A friendship worthy of my friend,

Such as my Lalius warms.
Q 5

346

With these I'll in my bosom make
A bulwark Fortune cannot shake,

The' all her storms arise.
Look down and pity gilded slaves,
Despise Ambition's giddy knaves.

And wish the fools were wise.

F. Hartford.

347

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD*.

Brussels, Aug. 5, 1741, N. S.

The day after I sent my last to your
ladyship, 1 had the pleasure of receiving
th]ee letters from you, in one of whicli
you mentioned having told me that lord
Morpeth was dead, which I was very glad
to find contradicted, but at the same time
mortified to know, that one of your let-
ters must ha\e missed me. This, to my
great satisfaction and surprise, I found had
arrived at Brussels, at my leturii here last
night. ]\Iadame Tronn, whom you inquire
after in it, is still alive, and the daughter
she lay in of in England was married
last year, and is now one of the great-
est beauties in Venice. Havim»: knoMn
lier in England (by following my mother

* This letter answers tlie four last.
Q 6

348

sometimes to her assembly), I was induced
to inquire after lier too. 1 did not,
liowever, see her, for most of the Vene-
tian nobility were out of town, and not
because they do not converse with stran-
gers, or that tlicir liberty is less than ours
in England. I assure you that all o^er
Italy this is much greater than we ima-
gine ; and I have, whilst tbere, often
wondered that so opprobrious a mistake
could go on, when every day it is visible
to so many of our countrymen, that no-
thing can be more distant from truth,
than the jealousy attributed to Italian
husbands.

Whilst I remained at Antwerp, besides
seeing a fine town, and some good pic-
tures, I met with a very extraordinary
character, in the person of Lady Clif-
ford's mother, jNIrs. Blonnt, who lives
a little out of the city, in a small but
convenient house, moated round. To
this she has a draw-bridge that pulls np
tvcry night.

349

This lady was tlie daughter of sir John
Guise, and was endowed with a most
surprising genius, whicli he took care to
improve, by having her taught the Latin,
Spanish, ItaUan, and French languages,
all of which she is perfect mistress of,
as well as all the best books in them.
Music and poetry assisted in the com-
pleting of her mind ; and love led her
choice to a younger brother of sir Walter
Blount, whom }ou may remember as
often mentioned in ]\Ir. Pope's letters.
Since the death of this gentleman, and
the disposal of her daughters, she is
retii'cd (with three or four servants) to
prepare for the next world, and she calls
hevstli' ihc Solitaii'e. Her dress is plain,
and she never goes into company; but if
any persons come to her, she receives
them with the greatest apparent pleasure,
and talks with such vivacity and variety
of wit, that you would imagine she was
still in the midst of the beau monde.

350

Upon her repeating- a passage in Horace
that she had translated, 1 intreated a
copy of it ; hut she told nie she had burnt
it, with many more such follies of her
youth : she added, " Since you will have
something of mine, Til shew how I was
cured of poetry ;" and then gave me a
paper, that I found at my return home
contained these lines :

****************

I sought instruction from my dawning y^ars ;
My lathor to my play-fellowh prefcrr''d ;
^^ luite'cr lie sj)oko, with deep attention heard :
lie laid those ground^; that notiiing can remove,
Care of my lionour, and my countr) 's love.
Whate'er he taught I eagerly Mould learn :
And, while to please him was my A\hole concern,
His chase I follow^ d o'er his spacious down,
Joy'd with his grace, and trembling at his frown.

Early I tasted the Castalian spring ;
My almost infant muse had tried her Aving :
A father fondly look"d on all I writ;
Winkle liimself had voted me a wit :
Old Guinet, charmed with all that I had done,
Declar'd my verses tasted of the sun.

351

Already fir'd with sacred love of praise,
I long'd for fame, and hunger'd after bays.
Cypress I scorn'd ; the muses were my caie ;
And Phoebus heard my late and early pray'r :
He heard indeed, and, standing by my bed,
Assum'd my brother's friendly form, and said :
" Why wilt thou. Nan, so ill employ thy wit
In manly works, for ladies' hands unfit ?
Of all thy sex that sought the poet's fame.
Is there one character thou dost not blame ?
And wilt thou vainly misemploy thy days
In what ne'er was the virtuous woman's praise?
Turn then thy sense to housewife's wiser cares,
Mind well thy needle-work, and say thy pray'rs:
Secure in this advice that 1 have given.
Of peace on earth, and endless peace in heaven."

lie said, and vanish'd in a iirfsh of light ;
My open'd mind began to judge aright;
Muse, rhymes, and verse, in mix'd confusion fled,
I burnt the trilUng products of my head.
Where poets stood before, receipt books stand,
Silk, thread, and worsted, are my next demand,
And chairs and stools increase beneath mylab'ring

hand.
Yet would I learn what antient bards have taught,"
But wisdom now, not wit, in Horace sought.

Apollo picas'd I thus obcy'd his voice,

(litmself my Cupid,) made my marriage choice.

Ao vulgar genius did his care commend,

He gave me Blount *, his favorite and his fricud ;

To draw whose character exceeds my art,

I bear it deep engraven in my heart ;

Yet this one print drawn out, I'll dare to say,

Phoebus himself can scarce the whole display.

Tho' tlie least blot his piercing wit could know,
He would not sharply censure ev'n his foe;
Yet what was bad he never would commend,
But siient hide the errors of his friend.

His fair example, and endearing art,
In)})rov'd ra} judgment, and reform'd my heart.

Tlic oddness of this lady's turn, and
way ol" life, gave very diMei-ent senti-
ments to our company. Some of us
pitied lier, and some of us pitied tlie
world for losing her ; but all wondered
at her except myself, who really wonder
110 penons e\er thought of secluding
themselves in this manner before, 'io

* Edward Blount, esq. of Blagdon, in Devonshire.

353

be weary of the hurry of the world at a
certain age, for people of any degree of
sense, is the most natural thing imagin-
able ; and no longer to seek company
Avhen the dearest and best of company
has left us, is equally conformable to a
tender heart and strong understanding.
Bl^ to shut one's self up irrevocably in
a prison, to torment the body and try
the constitution, because our minds are
already too much distressed, is what I
cannot so well comprehend ; therefore
I confess myself an admirer of IVIrs.
Blount's disposal of her remaining days.
Nobody can say or imagine that she
repents of a retirement, which her chil-
dren and friends every day solicit her
to leave, and which she has no sort of
obligation, but \\ hat arises from choice,
to stay in. Nobody that visits her finds,
by her reception of them, tliat her own
thoughts are insupportable to her ; but

354-

she ratlier seems to have been stoiincr
up entertainment for her guests, which
she presents with as much readiness, and
in as great plenty, as if she expected
to receive cent, per cent, for it, whereas
few are able to return her half the real
\alue.

H. L. Pom FRET.

355

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Marlborough, June 25, 1741, N. S.
DEAR MADAM,

I MUST begin this letter by telling you,
that we got safely hither on the nine-
teenth, which was the same day we left
Richkings. We had the finest weather
imaginable for our journey ; and though
the distance was no less than fifty-nine
miles, we performed the journey in ele-
ven hours and three quarters, including
the time we baited. I never saw such an
air of plenty as appeared on both sides the
road, from the vast quantities of corn with
which the fields are covered, and the ad-
dition of many hop gardens, that have
been planted since 1 passed through that
part of the country. Tlicsc, and indeed
every other beautiftd appearance of na-

356

ture, vanished when we came to New-
bury. There is just set up a manufac-
tory tliere, which (though it is said to
bring- incredible gain to the proprietors)
adds neitlier beauty nor pleasure to the
town and adjacent fiehh. There is a par-
cel of low o'l'ound about a mile before one
comes to it, where (by uncovering the
surface) they have found great quantities
of peat, which they burn upon the place,
and sell the ashes of it to a great advan-
tage, for manuring ground. These they
have correspondence for at an amazing
distance ; and they tell me, many families
are already grown rich, who are con-
cerned in the trade. After we left New-
bury, the whole face of the country was
changed, and every thing looked parched
and burnt np, for want of moisture ; and
this seemed (like Gideon's second fleece)
to be the only {)hicc where the dew of
heaven had not failcn. However, I iind
my own garden full of sweets, and I have

357

a terrace betwixt a border of pinks and a
sweet briar hedge. Tiiis hedge w'as not
made when your ladyship was here ; but
it now perfumes the air for a long way
together. Whether it is, because this
was the first habitation I was mistress of,
in those cheerful years when every thing
assumed a smiling aspect, from the viva-
city that attends that season of life, or
because almost every little ornament has
been made either by my lord's or my own
contrivance, I cannot tell; but I certainly
feel a partiality for this place, which an
indifferent person would be at a loss
to account for. The flowers, to me,
appear painted with brighter colours,
and the hay-fields and elder-bushes
breathe more fragrance than the same
things do any where else. When I am
sitting near the cascade, upon a favourite
seat, by the side of a little wilderness of
flowering shrul)s, I cannot help thinking
(or almost saying) to myself, " Lady

358

Pom fret would not dislike this shade."
How happy would it make me, if I could
place you there in reality, as often as I do
in imagination. No longer ago than last
night, after having read over your letter
there, ^hich contains your journal from
Rome to 13ologna, I fell into so deep a
reverie on your passage amongst the
Appenines, that I almost thought I saw
every beautiful landscape you have de-
scribed, and was ready to mistake the
sheep-bells on the neighbouring down,
for those of the little chapels you men-
tioned, and an old miller, who appeared
on the other side of the field amono-st
some willows, (which grow before his
door,) for one of the venerable inha-
bitants of those hermitages whicli you
found amongst the clefts of the rocks.

We have now hotter weather than we
have had for some years, which dispirits
every mortal, nor does the news of our
repulse at Cartliagena lielp at all to en-

359

liven us ; though I feel a secret pleasure
in the hope that you have by this time
heard a truer account than we can know
of it, from Mr. Fermor himself.

S60

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

MarlLorougli, July 23, 1741, 0. S.
DEAR SIADAM,

We have this week had our house very
ao-reeably filled, lord Brooke, Mr. Hill
(lord Hillsborough's son), IMr-. Young,
and Mr. Leslie, ha\'ing been all here
together. They have now all left us,
except the last, who will stay till we
return to Richkings. Mr. Ranisden and
Mr. Cowslad are still with us ; but our
pleasure has received an alloy by my
lord's having the gout, which was doubly
mortifying, as my lord Rothes (whose
journey to Scotland has been prevented
by his lady's being with child) came
to dine with him one day, when he v/as
confined to his bed ; and my lord Lons-
dale, in his way from Rath, also visited

361

him, when he was in such violent pain,
that he could have no conversation with
him. He is now, I thank God, mucli
better.

An argument was started one night
after supper, which produced a dialogue
of above an hour, that I secretly wished
you had heard, because I thought it might
liave given you some entertainment, be-
ing managed on both sides with a great
deal of wit and politeness. The subject
waS) " Whether a sincere love coidd sub-
sist, where tiiere was not an attention
paid to the object?" Two of the com-
pany, having aparticuhir friendship for a
gentleman, who has lately married an
agreeable woman with a very great for-
tune, and who loves him to distraction-
thought it necessary to vindicate thei*
friend, who they say loves her extremely,
though he has not this attention, to prove
that the truest love was often without it.
This appeared so paradoxical to I\fr. Lcs-

voL. 111. n

362

lie, and a very ingenious young clergy-
man, who was present, that it produced
a dispute, which, could I have written
short hand, I should have thought very
well worth taking down in black and
white. Yet after all that was said, with
a great deal of life and spirit on both sides,
I beheve both sides still retained their first
opinions, as I confess I did mine, though
I was happy in not being obliged to say
any thing, and therefore had the pleasure
to sit by, and hear my own sentiments
delivered with more strength, and in bet-
ter language, than I was capable of; so
that love, without attention, still appears
a chimera to me.

I hear that my lord Northampton is
certainly going to be married to lady
Frances Brudenell.

Frances Hartford.

363

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brusseb, Aug. 12, 1741, X. S.
DEAR MADAM,

I HAVE just received yours of the 23d of
last month, and at the same time an ac-
count of lord Augustus Fitzroy's* death,
without any letter from my son ; so that
he is again deserted, with this addition,
that we now know (what before there was
no reason to suppose) that the admiral [
will show him no sort of regard ; for lovd '
Augustus, before he took him, spoke to
tlic admiral to do it, which he refused.

* The third son of Charles, and father of the pre-
sent, duke of Grafton. JIc was a captain in the
navy, and commmidcd the Orford man of war in the
attack of Carthagena. He died at Jamaica on the
28lh of May, 1741.

+ Vernon.

R 2

364

Add to this a little delay in our business,
that will prevent our setting out so soon
as I hoped ; and then judge what are
my present joys ! You bid me treat you
as a friend, and I obey, though sensible
that your entertaining letters merit an-
other return, were I capable of giving it.

I wish I could have heard the argument
you mention, because I should then have
been with lady Hartford; but 1 can never
believe that the asscrtors of passion with-
out attention could, with all their wit,
])rove any thing, but that their friend-
ship was stronger than their love of
truth. And could you have known their
thoughts, I dare say they would all have
appeared on the contrary party to their
words.

On Thursday our company divided,
Lady Clifford being gone again for a
week to Antwerp ; ]\Ir. Stanhope to his
father, my lord Harrington ; and Mr.
Hollwall (a young ollicer with him)

36S

returning by the Hague to England.

We dined all together about a league ou

their journey ; after which lord George

]\Ianners, Mr. Ewer, his governor (a very

sensible and agreeable companion), and

ourselves, returned to our hotel, where,

after about an hour, lord Chesterfield

arrived from Spa. He is this morning

set out for Paris.

•

H. L. Pom FRET.

R 3

Q66

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Marlborough, Aug. 1, IT"*!, O. S.
DEAR MADAM,

Mrs. Blount's manner of living appears
to me a more proper object of envy than
pity, and I have often thought the same
of the Dowager Duchess of St. Albans,
when I have visited her at Windsor, and
found her sitting in a delightful room,
furnished with extremely good pictures,
and a large glass case full of all manner
of varieties in japan, china, chrystal, am-
ber, silver, fillagrce, &c. ; and in every
corner, Stands with large basons full of
flowers placed on them.

This apartment looks upon a very pretty
garden ; and behind it, her chapel and
closet run parallel with a little terrace ;
but this she only looks on, for she never

367

goes out of the door of her house, nor up
a step in it : yet, till this last illness, she
always appeared chearful and healthy,
and much handsomer than most people
that we see in public, or thiui she herself
did, in the latter part of the time that she
appeared there. I believe her pleasures
in her solitude are more owing to the
goodness of her heart than the attain-
ments of her head, for she has none of
the ingenious entertainments that Mrs.
Blount finds in her retirement; and the
part of the day which is not employed
in her devotions, is generally passed in
receiving visits, and talking of news :
and here she falls below your Solitiiirc,
whom I figure to myself receiving oidy
those who are qiialihcd to converse in
her own way, and from whom she may
hope to receive some new supplies of
knowledge, in order to recruit (at the
same time that she communicates part of)
her own stock. It has long been my
ft 4

56S

iixecl opinion, that, in the latter part of
life, when the duty owing to a family no
longer calls upon us to act on the public
stage of hfe, it is not only more decent,
but infinitely more eligible, to live in an
absolute retirement, and I am charmed
with this sentiment of poor Mr. Tickell : —

Blest Solitude, -when Lite's gay hours are past,
(Ilowe'er we range,) in tliee we fix at last ;
Tost thro' tempestuous seas, the voyage o'er,
Pale Ave look back, and bless thy friendly shore :
Our own strict judges, our past lives we scan,
And ask if Virtue has enlarg'd the Span ?
If bright the prospect, we the grave defy,
Trust future ages, and contented die.

However, this is not the general opinion
of the world, and therefore I conclude it
is better that it is not so, since Provi-
dence undoubtedly orders better for us
than we are able to do for ourselves.

Jrances Hartford.

369

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Aug. 18, 1741, N. S.

I HAVE got into as regular a way of life
here as I coukl be in at my own house ;
and by a habitude of uncertainty, am be-
come less uneasy under it. It is true I
wish to hear that our own affiiirs are en-
tirely settled, that I could see my children,
and my friends, and a thousand other
dependent agremeus, that I have long been
a stranger to. Yet, knowing by ex-
perience that Time and Fate M'iil take
their own course, and move at their own
pace, I wait a contented observer of what
shall arrive, without presuming to pray
or desire, but in general that God will
be pleased to order the destiny of my-
self and family (still dearer than myself),
as he sees will tend most to our good,
11 5

370

though ever so contrary to what is com-
monly esteemed good in this world.
Whatever melancholy turn this may
seem to have, I assure you I am far from
being so ; and, perhaps, if prospects
do not deceive, I never had a better
prospect of living to my own taste when
I return to England. My first winter I
shall spend in town, and after that shall
as little as possible trouble it^ though the
education of my youngest children must
necessarily call me there sometimes. I
have laid in a good stock of Italian books,
which I hope will contribute to your en-
tertainment also, having found several
very agreeable ones that I never heard,
mentioned before I was in Italy : with
these, and some that I left behind me in
English and French, I intend to fill a
case (but not a glass case), as the most
valuable furniture of my dressing room,
though they will not make it so brilliant
as the duchess of St. Albans, which must

371

be a pretty sight, and which I should like
very well to amuse my eyes with when
tired of reading, or amuse my visitors (if
I was obliged to let in all that came),
rather than offend them with the dullness
of my own genius, or be offended with
the acuteness of some of theirs.

I have not entirely neglected some
samples of those works not to be had in
England ; and, as far as I could with
prudence, have brought some little me-
morials of my travels to my friends. If
any amongst them are worthy of your
acceptance, I shall esteem them deserving,
and myself happy ; and since you are
pleased M'ith my remarks (and I will sooner
doubt that Vernon is brave, Sir Robert
wise, or the Parliament honest, than I
will make the least (juestion of for the
future). I have yet in petto many for
you, that I had neither time nor inclina-
tion to commit to writing; but I shall,
with infinite satisfaction, communicate
k6

372

ill our future (I hope) many and many
evening's conversations.

In the mean time, if you have a curiosity
to knovv^ how I can spend my time agree-
ably in an inn, I will tell you, that this
has nothing of one but the name, the
house being very handsome, the people
of the better sort, pohte, and very con-
versable, admitting none to eat that do
not lodge here ; our table is well served,
and our company such as we choose our-
selves. I have made some acquaintance
in the town, where I can pass the even-
ing if I please. My lord Ailsbury (at
whose house I generally dine once a week,)
is very entertaining, having an excellent
memory, and being thoroughly informed
of all the aifairs of England, both private
and public, that have happened within
these fourscore years, and which he is
very ready to communicate. Besides this
house, I have dined at the comte Lanoi's,
governor of Brussels, and at comte Calen-

373

berg's, whose wife is very good company.
To-morrow 1 am to dine with the pope's
nuncio, brother to the marchese Tempi,
of Florence, and with whom I often talk
of Italy and my Italian friends, with
sojfima contentezze di amhedue. Thus I
delude the minutes that retard my wished
return to England and to you.

II. L. PoilFRET.

574

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Marlborough, Aug. 10, 1741, 0. S.

I WAS prevented from writing to your
ladyship, as I ought to have done, last
post, by my poor lord's being in such
violent pain with the gout, that I could
not leave him a moment, or attend to
any thing else that whole day, but I
thank God he is now pretty well again.
I did not mention lord Augustus Fitzroy's
death to you in my last, because I was
then in hopes the account of it might
prove a niistake ; this 1 sincerely wished
it should, as I know it nmst put Mr.
Fermor under new difficulties, and con-
sequently renew your ladyship's anxiety
on his account; but the addition of the
admiral's uiikindness I did not foresee,
and it confirms me in my opinion (which

375

I have entertained for some time), that
Mr. Vernon, like many of his brother
heroes, has a degree of madness to
heighten and throw a brightness, or
rather a ^lare, upon his character, which
serves to dazzle weak eyes.

The many kind things you say to me,
dear madam, would make me insupport-
ably vain, if a tliousand mistakes and
errors, which I daily fall into, were not
more than sulhcient»to keep me humble ;
but even the knowledge I have how far
I am from deserving them, cannot hinder
me from feeling my happiness in your
partiality for me, which I hope will be a
means of encouraging me in my endea-
vours to become what I ought to be to
merit the title of your friend.

I fancy my lord Chesterfield's journey
is not merely to share the gaieties and
diversions of Paris ; he will fmd the
shades and streams in its neighbourhood
a more agreeable sejour at this season of

$76

the year, and therefore, I suppose, will
retire to Argeville, and consult the oracle
that inhabits those oroves about what
measures will be proper to be taken to
serve his country, and perplex the schemes
of those who have not put him at the
head of its affairs, at the meeting of
the next session of Parliament.

I am afraid the death of the queen of
Sardinia will take off a "-reat deal from the
lustre of that Court,* which I have for-
merly heard spoken of as one of the
politest in Europe.

Frances Hartford.

377

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Aug. 30, 1741 , X. S.

I OWN to you, dear madam, that 1 be-
gan to think that it would be necessary
for me to go another thousand miles from
you, in order to be sure of your letters,
liaving lived longer without one at
Brussels than I did most of the time I
was in Italy. But the too good excuse
your ladyship sent me, has, for the pre-^
sent, put any further journey out of my
liead ; and I am now only impatient for
a short airing to London, which I hope
soon to take.

Lady Clifford, who has been some days
since come back to us, obliged me yester-
day (though very unwillingly) to go with
her to see the arch-duchcss, who lies
exposed, under a canopy, for three days.

378

She was drest in white damask, with a
circle of rosemary round her head. Her
face had begun to mortify, and the nails
of her hands (which were held up,) were
turned black. This object, attended by
her mourning lathes, recalled to my mind
what no way raised my spirits ; and as
soon as I left it I returned home, and
endeavoured to amuse myself with read-
ing, whilst my companion went some-
where else. The book I took up, was
baron PoUnitz's Letters ; where, observ-
ing that he had made my journey from
Venice to Inspruck reversed, I read that
part. I find that though he never heard of
the castle of Amras, yet he had the good
luck to be better informed of the namesof the
statues in the Franciscan's church ; and,
allowing for the different seasons in which
we travelled, what he says appears to me
more natural and conformable to truth,
than any writing of the kind that I have
met with. His account of Venice is agree-

379

able, and on the whole just; notwithstand-
ing; we widely differ in taste ; the baron de-
claring, that, if he must choose a city in
Italy, it should be that; whereas, I never
saw a place, upon the face of the earth,
that I had not rather live in than Venice.
As I am no farther advanced in this book,
I cannot answer positively for any more
of it ; but, if I may judge by what I have
seen, (if your ladyship has not read it be-
fore,) it will entertain you very well, since
you take pleasure in the description of
those delightful countries. I have been
able to give you but very imperfect ac-
counts ; yet I think it is much bettfer to
say little, and take care to be sure of its
truth, than to fill volumes, and talk Hke
Tully, if what one says is from hearsay
only. Being now in one of the greatest
thoroughfuirs in Europe, and so near the
busy part of it, you will easily believe I
hear fresh news every day, which is almost
certain to be contradicted the next. The

380

following whimsical state of Europe fall-
ing into my hands, I send it to you ; be-
cause, dealing in generals, it is more likely
to come near the truth : —

Les Cours de r Europe.

L'Alleraagne craint tout,

L'Autriche risque tout,

La Baviere cspere tout.

La Prusse entroprend tout,

La Mayence rend tout.

La Portugal regarde tout,

L'Angleterre veut faire tout,

L'Espagne brouilletout.

La Savoyc se defie de tout,

La Moscovie se mele de tout,

La Hollandc obtient tout,

La France souffle tout,

Les Jesuites se trouvent par tout,

Rome benit tout,

Si Dieu ne prevoit a tout,

Le Diable emportera tout.

H. L. POMFRET.

TO THE COUNTESS OF POxMFRET.

Marlborough, Aug. 15, 1741, O. S.

Your meeting ^vith any thing to retard
your coming to England, now that you
are so near it, is ahnost insupportable, at
least it would appear so to a mind that
had not your right way of thinking, to
arm it against what are miscalled the
various caprices of fortune ; but are, in
truth, the intricate paths by m hich Pro-
vidence often leads the most deservino:
part of the world to peace and everlast-
ing happiness ; and those m ho, like you,
view them in this light, and bear them
with patience and fortitude, I believe,
seldom fail to meet their reward, even
here ; as I hojjc you will experience
through every future scene of your life.
I am far from thinking, that what you

3B2

say, on this subject, proceeds from a me-
lancholy turn of mind ; but attribute it
to that seriousness, which is the parent
of all solid content ; and which I will
never believe is to be attained by shut-
ting our eyes, and hurrying our thoughts
from every object that wears a gloomy
appearance. My own experience has
long shown me the fallacy of such shifts
to rid one's self of unpleasing ideas ; and
I have always found, that looking fixedly
on them, removes much of the formidable
shape they assume when first presented
to the imagination. A very sensible
friend of mine once told me, she had
found that one of the best receipts for
happiness, was not to direct one's thoughts
to the means of removing a disagreeable
circumstance, but to consider how one
can best be easy under it. This you
show me is practicable, by your present
calmness in a state so interesting, as that
of deferring the joy you may justly ex-

383

pect in seeing a beautiful and amiable
family improved, since you have been
absent, in age, stature, and all the en-
dowments of their minds.
- Your plan of life, at your return, is
(like all your projects) wise, and cal-
culated for the advantage of your family;
and yet forgive me, dear madam, if I
eannot forbear regretting the resolution
you seem to have taken, of seeing Lon-
don but seldom after the first winter ;
since if I have longer than that to Hve, I
feel I shall always wish to find you there,
when either my lord Hartford's business
or inclination obliges me to attend him
to a place that has no other charm left for
me, but that of meeting my friends ; the
number of which are reduced into so
narrow a compass, that should your lady-
ship, and three or (at most) four peoj)le
more retire from it, it would be a perfect
wilderness to me.

384

Nothing can be more obliging, than
your proposing a pleasure to yourself, in
the entertainments I shall find in reaclins:
some of the books you have collected in
Italy ; but your design of still adding to
the marks I have already received, by
destining some of the curiosities you
have purchased in your travels for me,
is too much ! Therefore let me entreat
you, my dear lady Pomfret, to bring me
only the share of partiality with which
you have allowed your heart to be biassed
in the favour of one, who, though in
other respects unw^orthy of it, has the
merit of being, with the sincerest friend-
ship,

Your most obliged and devoted
Humble Servant,

F. Hartford.

385

TO TUE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Sept. 6, 1741, N. S.

I HAVE, within these few days, had the
pleasure of conversing with a gentleman
whom I knew at Paris, one who has tra-
velled, with great observation, through
most parts of Europe, and understands
the interests and constitutions of all the
countries he lias been in perfectly well ;
talks several languages, and has the best
intelligence, hi discoursing on the pre-
sent intricate state of affairs, and tlie dif-
ferent views and principles upon wliich
the acting powers have moved, he told me,
that he was at tlie Hague when the queen
of Hungary's memorial came out, in
which she cited some sentences of the
king of Prussia's friendly letter to her.
He said, that there were in com])any,

VOL. 111. ' s

386

at the same time, the ministers of the two
courts, and that the Prussian minister
said to the other, " It is true, the king,
my master, has sent a letter, in which
were those expressions. You tell the
truth, but not all the truth ; for at the
same time that the kins: sent that letter of
form, to congratulate the queen's succes-
sion, and assureher of hisgood intentions, in
respect of the pragmatic sanction, he wrote
another with his own hand, to tell her,
that, notwithstanding what he had be-
fore said, he did not mean to exclude
himself from the just right of the four
duchies m Silesia, which he was very
sensible he should never be able to re-
gain, whilst there was an emperor reign-
ing of the house of Austria, since they
had so long and so unfairly kept posses-
sion of them : therefore he took this op-
portunity, when they were upon a par, to
demand a restitution of them. At the
same time telling her, he would deserve

387

that justice at her hands ; promising lila
vote and interest to make the great duke
emperor, and offering, at his own expense,
to serve lier with twenty thousand men,
and lend her twenty thousand florins,
partofwiiich should pay the debt on the
mines." 'I'he minister thought these terms,
in the queen of Hungary's situation, were
of some consequence to her ; but her ma-
jesty, or her council, thought it was be-
neath her dignity to answer the insolent
proposals of a little elector ; and the
young king finding his demands slighted,
and his letter unanswered for three weeks,
took it as a refusal, and accordingly
marched his troops into Silesia. The
queen's minister could say nothing in
contradiction to what the other alledged,
but that he hoped things might yet be
accommodated. As I think this entirely
clears the character of a piince, whom,
at his first setting out, you were inclined
to admire, and afterwards thought there
s '2,

388

was reason to condemn, I could not
refrain from making you this detail, and
I, at the same time, rejoice with you, that
courage, sense, and honour, are in the
possession of a young prince, who, in
truth, holds the balance of power, which
we for so many years have talked of;
for, as the French minister at Madrid
told my friend, if the queen of Hun-
gary liad accepted the king of Prus-
sia's friendship, the elector of Bavaria
could have made no resistance, nor would
the Swedes have declared war with I\lus-
covy. It is said, that ]\Ir. Robinson went
to offer the king of Prussia what the queen
possesses on the side of Holland, and to
guarantee the succession of Bergs and
Juliers. To this the king replied, that
he had been trifled enough withal ; that
the queen knew long ago his utmost
resolution ; but that, if she should now
comply with it, the state of his affairs
were altered, and that he did not esteem

389

himself tied by his first offers, since they
were not accepted, but would be entirely
at liberty as to his future conduct.
Though this gave little encouragement
to a second journey, I hear that Mr.
Robinson is gone again, and the lovers
of peace (of which number I am one)
are in hopes he will this time succeed.
One part of the French army is encamped
within a day's journey of us, but soon
removes, and it is said is to join with the
other two squadrons, and form one body
before Dusseldorf.

As I have made this letter full of poli-
tics, I will conclude it by telling you the
conjectures I meet with, at a house of
great news in this city, where there is
company every night, and where I go
sometimes. The king of Poland is to
have Bohemia ; the king of Prussia Sile-
sia, and the succession of Periis and
Juliers, if the young prince of Sultzbach
has no posterity; the elector of Bavaria
s 3

S90

is to have the Tyrol, and the title of king
of Suabia, if he misses that of Emperor ;
and Don Philip the dominions in Italy,
if the scheme on the other side does not
prevent liim ; which is, that the king of
Sardinia shall marry the arch-duchess,
have the JMilanese, and secure tlie other
possessions to his double brother-in-law.
As this is all chimerical, 1 mean it as a
farce to my serious historical tragedy at
the beginning. And to conclude all with
something lighter yet, in allusion to a
dance, prince Charles of Lorraine is to
jnarry a daughter of France, and keep a
gay court at Brussels. Virat dtw Bra-
bant ice »

II. L. POMFRET,

391

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Sept. 13, 1741, N. S.

Tpiere is now risen a new difficulty as to
our return to England, for the Spanish
privateers are so dispersed about, that no
passage is secure. Lord Cornbury is con-
iined at Cadiz on their account ; and it is
reported, that two young ladies, who had
been for their education in a convent at
Bruges, and were returning liome from
Ostcnd, are taken prisoners. These, and
a thousand other stories of the same
kind, are our daily entertainments, from'
all which 1 have recourse to my books in
the morning, and some abbey in the
afternoon, this country of Brabant being
well stocked with them. The roads to
them are always agreeable, for the whole
country is a fine ))ark, with wood and
s 4

water well disposed. When we arrive, we
find a magnificent house, consisting of
several courts, and cither ladies or gentle-
men ready to receive us with all good
humour and politeness, who conduct us
into their gardens, and give us a colla-
tion. After some discourse we take leave,
and return home with the night. This is
our method for five days in the week.
On the other two I dress, and go to my
more mondaln visits, where I learn the
sort of news that my last was composed
of; by which, as well as by this, you will
find how much mv materials for letters
decrease every week ; and had you not a
great deal of partiality for me, you would
entirely silence so insipid a correspondent.

H. L. Pom FRET.

S93

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Richkings, Aug. 30, 1741, 0. S.
DEAR MADAM,

1 CAN easily believe that the poor arch-
duchess must have been a very melan-
choly spectacle upon her lit dc parade.
I should be very sorry to see tliat mode
prevail in England, since even lying in
state has always appeared to me a most
ill judged pageantry. But to expose the
corpse itself is yet more unreasonable,
and looks as if people thought they were
doing honour to the remains of their
friends, by showing the destruction and
alteration they are subject to under the
hand of death.

I have seen tlie Baron de Pollnitz's
works, and think there are some very
entertaining passages in them, and am
s 5

394'

told that his characters are generally
just. Poor lord Nassau Pawlet died ex-
actly in the same manner that his mother
did, and appeared in perfect health till
the moment that he was seized *.

Though the days are shortened, and
the dryness of the season has occasioned
the leaves to fall already, the weather is
so mild and pleasant, that the country
never appeared more agreeable to me.

Lord Brooke and my son came to us
]ast Monday ; but the former talks of
leaving us in four or five days, lie goes
from his own liouse to Bath about the
twentieth of next montli. In the mean
time, he charges me to make his compli-
ments to your ladyship, and tell you, that
he is already convinced that your reason
for omitting the cascade at Terni will be
too good to leave him any hopes of having
the better of the argument ; and that he

* He died of the palsy.

395

therefore finds he shall be more disposed
(at your first meeting) to tell you how
proud you have made him, by approving
any part of his conduct, than to begin a
dispute.

Frances HARTroBD.

fi C)

596

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Sept. 20, 1741, N. S.

You, my dear lady Hartford, have, I
know, so much goodness for me, that
you Avill take part in the joy I felt
this morning at receiving a letter from my
son Fermor, dated from London ; and you
will excuse my not making this longer,
than to return you my thanks for your
last mostobliging one, having many letters
to Avrite on this occasion, as well as on that
of preparing for our coming, for which
I am not yet able to fix exactly a day,
though I hope to do so every morn-
ing, for we have no post certain, the
letters coming in sometimes one day, and
sometimes another.

397

Adieu, dear madam, and be so good as
to make my compliments to all your
family. Mine is

Ever yours,

H. L. Pom FRET.

398

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Richkings, Sep. 6, 1741, 0. S.
DEAR MADAM,

Your account of the king of Prussia's
conduct towards the queen of Hungary,
clears up the seeming contradiction,
which there appeared to be in his profes-
sions and actions. I am sorry her council
did not advise her to hsten to the offers
of a prince, who might have been so
useful a friend, and is now^ likely to prove
so formidable an enemy. The bustle in
which all Europe seems to be engaged
at present, affords no very agreeable
prospect to people whose ambition is
to enjoy their own property in peace ;
of which number, I believe, there are
few kings or princes. Being contented
with what is one's own, is become a Pie-

399

beian virtue, and is banished from th©
friendship and esteem of the great ones
of the world.

My lortl Brooke, and all our company,
except Mr. Ramsden and Mr. Cowslad,
have left us, so that we are got into a
very methodical manner of living amongst
ourselves ; for no strangers come to in-
terrupt the economy either of our affairs
or amusements. Of these the number
is increasing upon us, as the season
comes on, in which there are a variety
of things to be done towards the improv-
ing of our land, encreasing our stock of
flowers, thickening our hedges, and repair-
ing the ruin which the dry season has oc-
casioned amongst the trees and flower-
ing shrubs which were planted in the
spring, &c. ; so that we are not likely
to be idle ; and from thence discontented
and tired of ourselves and each other.
It would, I fancy, be no injury to the
quiet of mankind, if kings and their

400

ministers could divert themselves in the
same manner, and be as well pleased to
raise a forest, as an army ; or be as
anxious to cultivate the earth, as to
destroy cities.

Sir John Nonis is sailed again, but
whither, is not declared. The duke has
taken a very small house in Windsor
Forest, where he generally passes two or
three days in a week, for the pleasure of
hunting and shooting.

Frances Hartford.

401

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Sep. 23, 1741, N. S.

The manner in which you live, and tlie
amusements you choose, are certainly
, the most productive of happiness. Plea-
sures that can hear to be looked back
upon, are (if less violent) far the most
lasting. But truth is seldom seen, and
a great deal of experience and reflec-
tion are generally necessary to instruct
people, how near their centre of hap-
piness lies ; whereas (I do not know
why) youth and ignorance are always
for riding post, quite out of the way,
in search of it, and destroy or impair
the best means they have to attain
it. Was the queen of Hungary of our
mitids, perhaps her present situation,
with her mother and her son, in a cloister,

402

might not be so dreadful, as I fear it is,
when she expects to hear every day that
Vienna is liesieged. To prepare for the
approaching evil, the suburbs (by much
the finest part of the town) are beating
down. Prince Lichtenstein's house is
already levelled with the ground ; and
prince Eugene's is next to be destroyed,
as all the success of his victories were by
tlie bad judgment of his master, who at-
tempting to cut off from the succession his
elder brother's daughter, sought no better
a support to his injustice, than a weak
boy, without either riches or power. The
elector of Bavaria seems the rising fa-
vourite of fortune ; he lays his claims
from centuries past, when, no doubt, the
house of Austria was (what be says) a
dependant little prince under his ances-
tors. The king of Piussia, after keeping
Mr. Robinson six days, in his camp, sent
liim away without seeing him ; so that
there are no lK)pes on that side. Saxony

403

looks on ; the French assist ; and the
other electors, if not incHned to him,
are httle able to prevent his progress.
'J hey rave here mightily at our king for
making a treaty of neutrality for his
Grernian dominions, though I cannot but
believe his English subjects will see it in
another light, and be thankful to him for
not involving them in a war, of which
they would have complained (when once
it was begun), as of sacrificing them to
Hanover. But enough of politics.

I have (according to my method in'
every great city where I have made any
stay,) got acquainted with the most fa-
mous bookseller. This person has a
cabinet, that he calls Christina queen of
Sweden's ; but it might have been the
empress Livia's for the richness of its
materials. It is all silver gilt and ena-
mellcil, M'heiC it is not covercfl with
agatel, precious stones, intaglios, and
cameos. Besides this, he has many other

404

single curiosities of the same sort, with
a vast quantity of medals and coins, re-
lating to modern history, and some very
good pictures. I seldom pass two days
without going thither ; and have found
amongst his books some Italian plays,
written in the time of duke Francis,
(whom I made you acquainted with from
Florence, ) by which I see that the dispute
between the English and French, whether
one or the other first introduced Genteel
Comedy, has very little foundation on
either side ; for these plays have all the
regularity of time and place, and the just
division into five acts ; with the manners
of the gentry of that time, in which one
may too easily trace the manners of these
now living. I have bought here, also,
Varilla's reign of Francis the first' of
France, because, I think, you com-
mended it ; and the Secret History of the
House of Medici, by the same author.

405

Lady Cardigan lay here in her way to
England the other day ; and lord and
lady Scarborough are soon expected : I
wish I may be able to accompany them
home, where I have now a new reason to
wish to be; and wlicre I shall, in person,
repeat the sincerity and gratitude with
which I am,

Dear Madam, &c. &c.

H. L. Pom FRET.

406

TO THE COUNTESS OF HARTFORD.

Brussels, Sep. 30, 1741, N. S.

The pleasure I enjoyed at the safe return
of my son, and the hopes of seeing him
soon, are both suspended, since he is
gone again to the West Indies. How
severe a trial this is to me, is easier for
you to imagine than me to teU. Yet I
have not so far involved my reason in
affection, as not to know that it was the
properest part he could take ; and am in-
finitely obliged to lord Vere Beauclerk's*
friendship, who has sent him with sucha
recommendation, as, if it please God to
spare his life, must advance him. J\ly

* Son of the first duke of St. Albans, afterwards
created lord Vere, of Hanworth, in the county of
Middlesex.

407

life, however, is made bitter by tlie ab-
sence and danger of one who is so justly
dear to me ; but committing him to the
Protector of us all, I will here conclude
this subject, which you have more than
once forbidden my making any excuses
for entering upon.

The only company we have in this
house, at present, are Mr. Burrish, who
has just succeeded to Mr. Cope, as secre-
tary to the commission, at Antwerp, for
settling the Terif ; and Mr. Good cheap,
an East Indian merchant, who is with
him. They have both travelled a vast
deal in different parts of the M'orld ;
which, with the thorough knowledge they
appear to have of trade, makes them very
entertaining whenever they talk upon the
subjects they arc masters of ; and which
I never fail promoting as much as pos-
sible, being inclined to think with the
Spectator, " That a general trader of
good sense is often better company than

408

a gencFcal scholar. As one speaks from
practice, and the other from theory, the
real truth is surer to be found with the
first, though the arguments of the last
may be more eloquently delivered."

A fact that lately happened in Batavia,
and which, no doubt, you have heard
something of, being particularly well
known to Mr. Goodcheap, by means of a
correspondence he has there, I shall en-
deavour to repeat to you, as I heard it
from him. It is of an extraordinary
nature, and may perhaps produce extra-
ordinary effects. The settlement that
the Dutch have in Batavia, was originally
a conquest gained from the kings of
Bantam and Java, who still retain some
sovereignty amongst the rocky parts of
the island. The Chinese that inhabit
there, were invited by the Hollanders, as
absolutely necessary towards carrying on
their trade. They planted, prepared, and
worked the connnodities imported to Eu-

409

rope ; and, in consideration of the ad-
vantages and protection from the Dutch,
the captains of their tribes (for by such
they are governed,) are obhged to pay a
yearly tribute to the governor general of
Batavia. This tribute the captains raise
again from the people under them.
These, in consequence of th.e great debts
owing to them from the Dutch, weie not
able this year to produce the tribute,
which the chiefs amongst them re-
presented to the governor, desiring a
fair hearing for the settling of their
matters. The governor, whose name was
Falconier, and who was originally sent
thither a writer, from which low station
he has risen, through every degree to the
highest, (with this remarkable circum-
stance, that no body was ever put over
his head, nor he over any body's,) made
no other answer than that of putting
them into prison, and threatening ruin to
them all, if he was not immediately pai<l.
Upon this, the others in the country as-
VOL. in. T

410

sembled together, and wrote a letter to
a bastard son of the emperor of China,
who had a band of men wandering about
in those parts, to come and head them.
This he accordingly did, and they
marched directly to the city, took a gate
and killed two or three hundred people,
but were soon repulsed, with great
slaughter, and driven back into the
country ; from whence they sent a flag
of truce, desiring leave to represent their
grievances, and to submit. The governor
having assembled the council, Mr. In-
troff, director general, (the second in com-
mand,) a man of birth and humanity,
spoke for the hearing of them, alledging,
that there could be nothing lost by it ;
and that it Avould still be in their power
to receive or reject what the men had to
say, as they found it just or not. But
Falconier, furious and revengeful, vowed
the destruction of them all, by massacre,
that very night. Against this, ]\Ir. In-
troff and J\lr, Van Arden (first of the

411

council, and third in command,) loudly
protested ; and tlie governor put them
both into chains, and sent them directly
to Holland. Tlie rest of the council, fear-
ing the same treatment, assented to his
determination, who tliat niglit, about
twelve o'clock, summoned the officers and
seamen from the ships, and leading them
himself, murdered all the Chinese he
coidd find in the town, to the number of
seventeen thousand, seizing their effects,
and not sparing even the hospitals
M-here the sick were lodged. The slaughter
continued for three days : after M'hich,
he published a pardon to all who would
return from the country in a month,
wearing a paper on their sleeves, in which
should be written their crime and con-
trition. Many came in on this pro-
clamation ; and as fast as tliey did so,
they were murdered. In the meantime,
the ship in which he had sent Introff
and Van Arden put into tlic Cape of
Good Hope, M'hcre they met other

Ti3

412

ships from Holland; one of which had
brought a packet, directed to Mr. Introff.
Upon opening it, he found that he was
appointed governor general, in the room
of Falconier ; and therefore returned
with the other ships to Batavia, where
he put his antagonist in the same state
he had been in ; and, with an account of
his crimes, has sent him to Amsterdam.
Mr. Burrish tells me, (to my great sor-
row,) that there is Jio instance of a crime
committed in Batavia being revised iu
Holland ; and that he will (if his con-
science can suffer him) still enjoy his ill
got wealth. The government of Batavia
is endeavouring to stop all boats that can
give inteihgence to China of the barbari-
ties practised on the Chinese, for fear the
emperor should prohibit any future com-
merce with the Dutch. This attempt Mr.
Goodcheap hopes v. ill be ineffectual, and
that we siiall for the time to come have
all the Chinese trade to ourselves.

413

TO THE COUNTESS OF POMFRET.

Brussels, Oct. 6, 1741, N. S.

Since I wrote last to your ladyship, my
lord has received notice, that his long
depending business is at last finished ;
which being the only cause of our stay
in this place, we shall leave it to-morrow,
and may, perhaps, be in London before
the present letter reaches Richkings.
However, as this is not certain, I would
not omit giving you information, which I
flatter myself will be pleasing to you.

In taking leave yesterday of all my
acquaintance here, I met at the house of
one of tliem, a brother of the princess of
\\'ales, who is travelling for his amuse-
ment ; and, intleed, I think for his im-
provement, for he is really a very pretty
kind of young man, and very rightly

T o

4.14

behaved, lie thinks of seeing England
in the spring. I wish he may find, what
is much talked of here, a reconcihation.
It is certain that a Ivind of one is, at last,
concluded between the queen of Hungary
and the king of Prussia.

I am disappointed in the letter I hoped
to receive from you to-day ; but the re-
flection, that it is the last time the post
can serve me so, makes some amends.

My lord Pomfret and my daughters
desire your ladyship and loid Hartford
to believe, that they are (with me) im-
patient for the honour of acknowledging
your obliging remembrance, during out"
absence, and approving ourselves

Your most obliged and
Faithful humble Servants.

INDEX.

A.

VOL. PACK

AocTDENT, by the falling of a stack of chim-

nies, and singular escape i. 185

Adige river iii. 213

At'nus-deis, consecration of, at Rome iii. 4^

Aix i. 89

Aix-la-chapelle iii. 109

Albans iii. 1 23

r285
Albans (St.), dutchess of iii. j „gQ

Alfred, masque of ii. 125

Amelia, princess i. 49

Araras, castle of, near Inspruck, and its

curiosiiies — ...iii. 256

Ancoiia iii. 163

Andcrnacli iii. 305

Angelo (St.), castle of, at Home iii. 47

A ppennines iii. 1 56

Aqua I'eiidtnte ii. 288

Argyle, duke of i. 237

A liosto iii. 324

Arno rivir, ovcrliowing of ii. 189

Aschaflcnburgh iii. 277

t4

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

Augsburg iii. 268

Avignon _ i. S7

B.

Bacon, Mallet's life of ii. 21

Bandello's novels ii. \

I IV3

Bateman, lady i. 49

Beauclcrk, lord Aubrey ^ .iii. 284

, lord Harry i. <

U40

, ii. 252

5 lord Sidney i. 230

Beaufort, dutchcss of iii. 280

Bethnal Green, the blind beggar of ii. 223

Bianca Capello i. 23 J

Bisham abbey, account of ii. 17

lilausfelden iii. 27 1

Bolsano iii. 250

Bolsciia, lake of ii. 289

Bolton, duke of i. 230

Bonn iii. 306

}5orgese, villa of the prince of ii. 308

Boiigeant, author of Amusement Philoso-

phique stir le langagc lies Bcles i. 97

Boyle, lady Dorothy ii. 163

Bracciano lake ii. 290

Bray i. 7

INDEX.

VOL. PAOS

nrciincr mountain iii. 254

lirigiiola, la sigiiora, anecdote of i. 168

Bristol, lady ii. 19

Brixen iii. 253

Brooke, lord i. 95

, iii. 280

Bruce, lord i. 100

Bniiisels iii. 311

Bulkeley, lady i. 124

Burgoyne, Sir Roger, anecdote of i. 18

Burlington, lady ii. 164

Campbell, miss i. 100

Carilinals, college of, at Rome iii. 41

Carnival at Florence ii. 267

33
o6

Caroline, pi mccbs i. 223

Carle'b letltrs i. 53

( artrr. .Mrs l. ■{

U78

CartiicitiiMia, the taking of iii. 284

Charles fluiirst of Kngiand i. 53

Charles the twellth of Sweden, very singu-
lar anecdote of i. 71

Charles the fifth of Spain, his usual asseve-
ration " on the laiih of an honcit man" i. 34
T 5

Caroline, queen of king George the se- > . (
( ond, c.'iaracter of j (.

INDEX.

VOL. rAGi;

Chesterfield, lord iii. 375

Child stolen, and singularly recovered i. 190

Civita Castellana iii. 153

Clifford, lady iii. 322

Coblcntz iii. 304

^-/Ologne in. i

^ 1307

Colonna palace at Rome iii. 310

Comas, intended song in ii. 151

Conway, lord ._ iii. 295

Corsi, il Marchesse, the daughter of ii. 104

Cosimo Riccardi, arery singular charac- 7 .. f 9

ter at Florence j ' \ 78

Cosmo the first, house erected by ii. 288

. . ii.

Cumberland, duke of i. <

t238

f

238
15

.. , 47

"*^297

1^112

D.

Dauphine i. 86

De Grey, marchioness ii. 184

l)e Mailley, madame i. 56

Densling iii. 267

Donawert iii. 277

Duphn, lord iii. 313

INDEX

VOL. PAGE

107
126

^ . - . - n<

Durazzi, iicnora i. 5

E.

Edward and Eleonora, a play, by Thomson i. jl

Edwin, ?«lrs i. 5

Ernley, Miss iii. 313

Euston, late lord ii. 162

F.

Fcnlon, Mrs. Lavinia iii. 325

Fi(zro\, lord Augustus iii. 3G3

r ''

Florence ii. | 187

I 196

, doi^cription and history of i. 204

, I)nrstinp; of a glass-house at ii. 255

, churches at ii. C5

, convents at ii. 97

, horse-races at ij. 57

, nian\ifactures at ii. 186

r 93
Florentine gallery ..ii. < 119

' 1 10
Foligno iii. 153

r^7

■ I 59
ii. 193

T G ■

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

Francis the first, character of, and of Charles

the fifth compared i. 38

Frankfort on the Maine iii. 297

Frankland, lady Anne i. 113

Frederic the third of Prussia ii. 47

Frcscati iii. 143

Friendship, essay on ii. 49

, observations on i. 162

Fuessin iii. 266

G.

Caunt, John of i. 184

CJonoa i. 106

George the second ii. 1 84

■ visits Ilanorer i. 236

George (St.), the chevalier de iii. 44

Gcruiains (St.), description of i. 11

Gondolas at Venice, account of the iii. 227

Crazie agV inganni tuoi^''^ of Mctastasio,

translated i. 1G3

G riflin the player i. 195

f 60

Gustavus Vasa, a tragedy, by Brooke . . i. ^ 6,2

^ 77
II.

Halifax, lord ii. 165

, iii. 295

JIanau iii. 277

INDEX.

vol.. PAGE

Uarrington, lord ii. 165

Hartford, lord i. 238

r 11
, lady, poetry of in. j^^^

Hastings, lady Margaret i. 23 i

Hervey, lord i. 238

Hesse, prince of ii. 1 67

• , princess ot ii. <

LllO
See also Mary, princess.

Hildcrwary iii. 2fi6

Honey « ood, general i. 238

Horse-races at i'loreiice ii. 59

. f 55

Hounslow iitath, encampment on li. <

' ^ ll56

r338
Hungary, qnecn of iii.^ 385

(398

Huntingdon, lord and lady i. 234

Hiirlach iii. 267

J.

Inipriinefta, »irgiu of (he, account of. . . . ii. 216

Jnn river iii. 255

Inspriick ib. ib.

J idiers iii. 309

INDEX.

VOL. PACK

K.

Keck, lady Susan 1.. ii. <

' -^ 1172

Kent, dutchess of iii. 280

, Mrs ii. 279

Kouli Khan's triuinplial entry into Ispahan i. 160

Kreilshen iii. 274

L.

Laura dc Sade, tomb of, at Avignon i. 88

Leghorn i. 108

Lempsterj lord ii. 277

Leonard (St.), hermitage of, in Wijidsor

Forest ii. 2

Leonard's Hill (St.), scat of lord Harford i. 6

Le tombeau des deux amants at Lyons . . . i. 83

Lewis the fourteenth of France i. 2

fifteenth i. 5

Lincoln, lord ii. IGO

• , lady ii. 202

Lintz iii. 305

Lions, two whelped in the tOMcr of Lon-
don, ard called Vernon and Ogle iii. 289

Little Avorld, the ii. 234

Longleatc, in Wiltshire, account of ii. 100

Loretto, and chapel at iii. 161

Lorraine, duke of ii. ' 281

Louisa^ princess .-. iii. \

1 283

INDEX.

VOL. PAGI

Loiivain ii

Lucca

l^yons, history and description of

M.

Maccra^a ii

Macstreclit ii

Mahomet, tra;^edy of

Manchester, dutches^ of ii

Mann, Sir Horace

Maria-Anna Louisa, electress palatine ..

, her palace at Florence i

Mariette, Mons

Marleljaro, lord Hartford's seat at

310

218

81

.160

310

99

279

175

176

29

57

/102

1 122

duke of.

J (.0

7
49
>3
230
Mary, princess, her marriage to the 7 . ("238

prince of Hesse j t-212

•, lier wechlinij; clothes and

hiccs i, 225

Mentz iii. 3(;0

rlG3
Alctastasio, translations from i. <

.. r '^^

"• 1204

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

Mctliodists, account of their origin " i.

Midcllcton, Dr i,

, \d(\y^ anecdote of. i.

Mittcmbiirg iii.

Monkey island, belonging to tlie duke of
Marlborough i.

Montagu, duke of i.

, lady Anne ii.

, Frances i.

Mary Wortlcy jj )

112
136
233
12
276

7
111
238
105
18
f S3
117
1 3 1
153

{

Monte Fiascone ii.

Mustaj)haj tragedy by Mallet i.

170

175

, 201

L232

2S8

N.

Narni iii. 1 5 1

Nassau, Count of i. 18

Navarre, queen of ii. 193

Neugcnt, Mr. verses by ii. 17

INDEX.

VOL, PAGE

Nithsdale, earl of . 1 iii. 63

, lady ib. ib.

Norden iii. 272

Norris, Sir John ii. 47

, iii. 400

O.
Oberlandstein iii. 303

P.

Padua iii. 271

Pala/zo, llidolfi, at Florence, account of

the i. 227

Paris, account of i. 55

I*arlcni park iii. 219

I*a-.\ Ift, lord Nassau iii. 394

Phaity., castle of iii. 303

Pilfj;rims, feasting of at lloine iii. 34

Pisa, cathedral, ice. of i. 217

r 163

Poetry i. < 178

I J 98
p 23

I ''

.. ! 117
". -s

133

I 137
Ll51

{,

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

fl81

' 201'

204

I'^^^'-y "-1247

253
I 261
1269
7
11
158

Polnitz's letters iii. 378

Pomfret, lady, poetry of ii. 37

. . iii. 158

Pope, Mr i. 93

• , epigram by ii. 248

Pratolino, near Florence -ii. 5

Pretender, the >.iii. 45

Provence , i. 87

Prussia, king of ii. 273

— , iii. 386

Pulteney, Mr. poetical e])!stle to ii. 261

R.

Radicofani ii. 287

Religion, ronia}i catholic, observations on i. 208

34

V2.51

INDEX.

VOL. FACE

llichings or Illclikings, the seat of lord | . f 172

Hartford S ''1 219

. ii. 1

iii. 218

Rimini iii. 167

Rivol Paglia ii. 288

Rivers, lord ii. 260

Rome i. 95

ii. 290

iii. 15

capitol of ii. 293

iii. 106

Campus Martins at ii. 297

population of ib. ib.

r298
St. Peter's church at - ii. [^ 3Q2

1;

, atican at ii

39
"1- ^ 89
49
(299
1303
f 24

'"-l 39

— , piz/icaioli, shops at iii. 32

— , account of the Pope's annual disfri-
biition of marriage portions to 300
fciuaios at iii. 15

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

Rome, la trinita del pcleerini, the feasting

of beggars and pilgrims at iii. 33

, pope's palace at iii. 49

— — , Farnese palace at . iii. 52

, Castle of St. Angelo at. iii. 60

5 palazzo Pamfilia at _.iii. 61

, monte de Pieta at iii. 65

, Albani palace at iii. 68

■ , church of Santa Maria maggiore.. .iii. 69

, convent of St. Cecilia at iii. 74

, Barbarini palace at iii. 76

, church of St. Ignatius at iii. 78

5 palazzo Storzi at iii. 80

'5 lottery at iii. 82

5 palace of prince Giustiniani at iii. 85

5 Vatican library at..... iii. 87

, coUosseum at iii. 88

• , little farnese palace at iii. 00

5 St. Paul's church at iii. 92

■ , procession of the pope to take pos-
session of St. John Lateran's church at. iii, 106

, tapestry manufactory at iii. 310

— — , Sette dolorij convent at iii. 121

Russia, anecdote of the great dutchess of. .iii. 131

S.

Sackville, lady Caroline i. 49

Sandwich, earl of iii. 72

INDEX.

VOL. PAGE

San Marino i. 146

Sardinia, quocn ol' iii. 396

Savona i. 106

Scarborough, lord, account of his death . . i. 188

Selkirk, lord i. 77

Selwyn, colonel ii. 2H5

Scvigne's letters i. 28

Seymour, lady Elizabeth, afterwards duL-

chess of NorthumberJand i. 27

Sienna ii. 285

, cathedral of i. 117

Singing «/' i)npioviso ,-ii. 59

St. Stephen, account of the chapter of the

order of, at Pisa — i. 214

T.

Tamerlane and Bajazet, anecdote of i. 31

Teresa Giaccomini, anecdote of i. 127

Thunder, extraordinary storm of in Ja-
nuary, 1739 i. 48

Thu rloe's papers i. 194

Tow nshend, lord i. 51

— ^ hidy i. 5

Travelling, observations on ii. 0

Trent iii, 249

I'uscany i. 214

INDEX.

VOL. PACE

Uguccionij siguor i. 231

V.

Varilla'f history of Francis the first ii, 1 93

C 299
Vatican at Rome, account of ii. | ^^^

111.

I 39

Venice , i. 87

iii. 221

■ , description of the regatta at ii. 83

5 nuns of the virgin at iii. 221

, doge's palace at iii. 222

, election of the great council at . . ib. ib.

, St. Mark's church at iii. 225

, bridge of Rialto at iii. 212

, academy of sciences at iii. 243

Venice preserved, a tragedy by Otway .. ii. 129

Vernon, admiral iii. 288

Verona iii. 245

Versailles, account of i. t6

Viccnza iii. 24-4

Victoria della Roverc, the charitable insti-
tution by, at Florence ii. 274

Vienna iii. 402

INDEX.

Villa Medici- near Rome .......

VOL.

....... iii.

P.AflK

126

...... . iii.

128

Veterbo

ii.

2sy

w

Walpole, Sir Robert ii

Whitfield and the Methodists, account of

I

Windsor, anecdotes- of a strange family at

, Mrs

AV'yndham, Sir William

5 112
I 131

89

260

17

Zcnobia, by Metastasio

ii. 236

Piinted by I. Gold,
Shoe-Lane.

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